Scout carrier progress

[Philliphastings]

I have been chipping away a little more with the scout Carrier and attempted to straighten the back lower armoured panel and left footstep with my portapower. It had no practical effect other than to bow the armour to a worrying degree. after I let the pressure off it just snapped back to where I started and then proceeded to laugh at me. I'm now thinking gentle heat will be required !

Some of the smaller brackets on the backplate were bolted on in the customary manner but of interest were the two rope horn brackets, one of which was rivetted on neatly and the other was attached with coack bolts which were welded over on one side and appeared at first to be rivetted on. Both brackets had to be removed to be straightened and repaired and to deal with nasty rust scale which had begun to expand between the plates - all gone and sanitised now...

[Philliphastings]

I then moved on to the heavy engine cover and split the frame into two and separated the top cover...

The missing portion of one side angle was found during the third trip back to the property where the machine was originally located. It's only a piece of angle Iron and can be easily welded back on but it's nice to have the original part (and very lucky too as it was in a scrap pile earmarked for simms metal recyclers)

When the original owners cut out the engine cover frame to prize the engine out they used an angle grinder with a thick blade so there is a fairly wide strip which will have to be replaced before the whole thing eventually goes back together again.

The top plate is surprisingly light once it is separated from the top cover. It still retains both engine side cover clips, one Bren 'pogo stick' stowage clip and the bren butt spring clip on hinged bracket...

[Philliphastings]

The part numbers on the underside of the top cover plate are fairly clear and read

ITEM 328
K64 M
HG 37

I was wondering if the HG37 could be a factory date code for 1937 ?

It's not that far fetched since the front idler wheel are clearly cast with 1938 in them.

Also of note is the fact that all of the machine screws which held the top cover to the frame were countersunk. Unfortunately they had to be sacrificed in splitting the assembly down but I have a handful of suitable cad plated replacements on hand.

The radiator cover plate with filler hatch was long gone and I will wait until i have the entire engine frame repaired and fitting correctly until I make it and the front bolted in side plates. The removable clip on side covers i will make as soon as I am satisfied what thickness stell was used.

Does anyone know to what extent the engine covers on the Scout was armour plated ? I'm sure I have seen a reference somewhere to the engine side plates on both side being light armour but can't recall where I read it.

I will try to get a few more pics of parts and progress from time to time now that I have found a way to do it via Iphone and internet cafe. I don't have a PC at home.

Cheers for now

Phill

[shaun]

Phil, That is quite possible. i have seen many marks very similar to that on other WW2 Birtish AFV's. Dingos normaly have well marked armour with the markers mark of "S&J 1944" etc.

[Philliphastings]

I hoping that by posting up details of the Scout a little more can be learned along the way as well as being of some benefit to Lynn, Ben, Nigel and everyone else who is restoring a British Mk1 Carrier.

Let me know if there is anything you would especially like to see a pic of. Apart from the bottom of the hull which is two feet under stored parts I will do my best.

Cheers

Phill

[Lynn Eades]

Your Engine cover side plates will be A.P.,at least on the left side, where you have no outer armour. The Bren plates are about 4mm down to the lower engine cover rails. I cant help withe the numbers except that I have observed dated bits (1938) that must have been in stock, that was at some point used in either new construction of, or the repair of a U.C. of post 1940 production.
How a plate was marked may well have varied from one manufacturer (of carriers) to another, in the U.K.

Are you able to make your photos any larger?
I will respond to your emails soon.
Lynn.

[Philliphastings]

Sorry about the size - that's what the Iphone spits out. My DSLR had the oppositr problem and spits out images too big to post up.

I'm open to suggestions.

Lynn are the pics I emailed similarly tiny ?

Cheers

Phill

[RichardT10829]

host them on www.photobucket.com or upload them onto the site dude.... i usually host them on the above website and cut/past the URL's onto here.

[Lynn Eades]

Whats a DSLR? Yes email pics are the same size

[hrpearce]

Lynn, DSLR = Digital Singa Lens Reflex, Digital camera you can change the lenses on.
Phill, I have an image resizing program on my computer, I right click on a photo, select resize image, check the size required and click OK. I then get a duplicate picture with small or custom in it's ID. The programm was in my last computer and when it wasn't in this computer I asked the teck at the computer shop and he e-mailed it to me.

[Lynn Eades]

I have a 5 megapixel digital camera. At 5megapixel, sometimes they will upload to the forum, sometimes they wont. If I change the setting to take them at 3megapixels they post every time. I mostly take them and save them at 5 m.p. I reduce them by emailing them to myself, and save them in a resized file, for posting.

[Philliphastings]

Sorry guys, I am definately NOT computer savvy. They vex me no end When I first began my Police training it was on an olivetti typewriter !

At the moment it's the best I can do seeing as the local internet place is not staffed by technically minded personnel either.

Cheers for now

Phill

[Philliphastings]

The recent addition of a sandblasting cabinet to the workshop has seen me joyfully blasting lost of small parts and fittings for the Scout (as well as Ferret, Landrover, Caterpillar and Mil Radio bits)

I have started the habit of first recording the part numbers of each Scout item, then priming and painting as I go.


It's immensely satisfying to see each little piece come back to life.

I settled on thefinal colour of the machine based on the remaining paint under the rear battery box. Still have to match what I assume was 'Light Stone' as the camouflage but that will be toward the end of the rebuild.

Will post up pics shortly

Cheers

Phill

[RichardT10829]

if you are going light stone (like mine) the current UK BS paint also called light stone is incorrect for the period... the new light stone is more towards the 1940's Desert ZI Pink.... if you have a cromadex factory near you get RAL1002 10% matt. 222 fast air dry paint. it looks like Chicken Korma when you spray it on but darkens slightly... i found this to be one tint away from my actual swatch i had from Mike Starmers Book. and the paint was 50% cheaper than war paint suppliers on Milweb (Cromadex are one of the main suppliers to the UK armed services)

Light stone is a base coat, the disruptive could have been a number of patterns.... if it was me i would go caunter.. (i love that pattern) but i would recomend buying Starmers books on the subject.. Caunter alone had a number of variants from year to year and i think there are two or three books on the subject.

[Ron Pier]

I wanted to spray one of my motorcycles in a desert scheme. The colour on offer for British vehicles was a bit Primrose for my liking.
So I bought Cromadex from 'Jeep Parts UK' It's their German desert colour which they call something like Dunkel Gelb. I think it looks like light stone and I'm very pleased with it. Ron

[Philliphastings]

We have a choice of two large paint suppliers in Perth - Protec and Chameleon paints. I have used both companies and I'm happy with the colour matching and pricing but one is considerably more economical than the other.

There is a substantial portion of the front lower hull still camouflaged and allowing for fading I think I can have the ramaining colour fairly accurately matched.

Going by the two existing photo's of the vehicle in service I will replicate the two tone camouflage used fairly extensively in Western Australia during the war.

Really looking forward to painting the whole machine but that's still quite a long way down the track...

Cheers

Phill.