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  #1  
Old 19-08-14, 19:48
Stuart Fedak Stuart Fedak is offline
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Last edited by Stuart Fedak; 23-10-17 at 00:51.
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  #2  
Old 19-08-14, 22:49
chris vickery's Avatar
chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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Location: Nipissing Ontario Canada
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Stuart, if you are using enamel paint just go to the auto parts store and purchase some medium reducer to thin your paint.
I always go by eye when thinning but I have done a lot of spraying.
The auto parts store should be able to help you on the correct amount of thinner. They do sell a stick which you dip and then count drips per minute to acquire the correct vicosity.
I believe I start around 10 to 20% reducer mix.
Other types of thinners will affect your results. Typically things like toluene or xylene will flash off quick and dull the finish. Depend on your gloss level or lack thereof...
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3RD Echelon Wksp

1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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  #3  
Old 20-08-14, 03:47
chris vickery's Avatar
chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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Location: Nipissing Ontario Canada
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Stuart, were you woried about painting the grass?
Looks good.
Another tip that I can give you is for setting up your gun;
I usually take a large piece of cardboard or plywood to use as a template for setting up the spray pattern and flow rate. A few swipes across with the gun as you make your adjustments makes it easy to have the equipment ready to spray.
Be thourough when cleaning your spray gun as well. I usually use some laquer thinner to clean my guns, its cheap and easy. Place a rag over the end of the nozzle and pull the trigger to back flow the thinner through the pot and all the tubes etc. I do this at least once and empty the contents and then do a second time before tearing the gun down for a full cleaning.
Your piece of cardboard makes a nice backdrop when you spray out the solvent as well.
Pay special attention to proper disposal of all your solvent soaked rags, cardboard, towels etc. I place all my old solvent into a sealed can for waste disposal and put the rags etc right outside into a steel dumpster.
No fumes, no fires.
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3RD Echelon Wksp

1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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  #4  
Old 20-08-14, 03:50
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Robin Craig Robin Craig is offline
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Howdy chum,

the tips I have are limited.

Start spraying off the item and sweep onto it and finish off the other side. Starting on the item and finishing on results in puddles of paint.

Did you check the seam sealing material between the step welds?

Can you show us the super dooper safety chain hooks?

Looking good

R
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  #5  
Old 20-08-14, 04:16
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
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I have to agree that the original chain hook on the M101Cdn2 was a poor idea. I replaced them with appropriate slip hooks with the latch.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/H...atch/3800337.p
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slip hook.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 20-08-14, 05:33
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
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As I recall there were TFRs on the chains that the hooks very early on that they were too small to grab the Iltis tow points. The answer was they were to loop through the top of the rings and back to the chains. Why the government didn't sink $10 into each trailer to make them right is beyond me.
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