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  #61  
Old 04-09-17, 22:56
Lynn Eades's Avatar
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Phillip, a chap over here made his cups by forming them from a white industrial plastic sheet. He told me he heated it in the oven, then pressed the sheet with the suspension ball and an arm. I cannot report on how well they have worked though.
It is great to see that you are having a go at a new angle.
Enjoying your thread. Thanks.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
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  #62  
Old 05-09-17, 03:50
Russell Boaler Russell Boaler is offline
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I made some replacement cups out of some pvc drainage pipe years ago. It was a case of simply cutting to approximately the right size, heating until soft then forming the cup by forcing the softened plastic into the socket using a spare suspension ball and the appropriately sized hammer. Then it was just a case of trimming to the right size and forming the slot. They seem to work alright and have been in place for 25 years. Haven't pulled the suspension unit apart to see how well they've worn though. I don't think the cups need to be particularly strong though... and I like the idea of using graphite.
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  #63  
Old 13-11-17, 05:16
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Wheely, Wheely Good......

Its been slow progress over last few months, seem to be making small amounts of progress across a number of areas but no milestones achieved:

- Engine is all in pieces, waiting on parts;
- Diff is all in pieces, waiting on parts;
- Suspension is all in pieces, waiting on parts;
- Gearbox is all in pieces, waiting on parts;



Hopefully not too far away and all the ground work on the above will suddenly create a jump in progress.

Finally got the wheels up to Perth where, thanks to Wayne Henderson, they are now on their way to Hugh Davies in South Australia for the magical re-rubber treatment.
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Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
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LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #64  
Old 14-11-17, 09:05
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Good Move Phillip ! With the high Quality resto you are doing it will be the Icing on the cake Dale
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  #65  
Old 15-11-17, 10:00
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default A shift in time.....

Thanks Dale,

I've been on the road and today I had my hands on two NOS Wheels. Unfortunately the owner (a MV collector) has left them outside for some time and they have rusted to the point where the the rubber is perished away from the rim

The gear selector rebuild has been completed, ready for when the final gearbox bearing arrives so I can rebuild that
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #66  
Old 15-11-17, 23:26
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Hi Phillip it's a good idea to cut off those two lung mounts flush with the side of top cover plate , as they can get in the road with gear change movement . Dale
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  #67  
Old Yesterday, 14:39
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Phew...

After 'boiling' the engine in molasses for two weeks, its now clean of scale and rust - just incredible what came out of it.

Pulled the engine studs out, after reading about this process, I took it easy but found that only two of the studs made a cracking sound, the rest were a fine line between "are they shearing or coming out".

Finally got the hang it after braking four studs (oops). Best process was heat the stud, cool, test, reheat and retest. Some really stubborn ones came out after about six sessions. I used this bearing type extractor as it grips very low and it worked awesomely.

Engine is now completely stripped and goes into the workshop tomorrow.
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IMG_0977.JPG   IMG_0979.JPG   IMG_0975.JPG  
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #68  
Old Yesterday, 19:23
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Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Hi Phillip. Here's what I had suggested to me. Don't run a tap through those head stud threads in the block. Find the best looking old stud (thread wise) Then put a couple of hacksaw cuts in the end or grind a notch in it, so that it forms a sharp scraping edge as it is wound in. then judiciously use it as a thread cleaner in all 24 holes. the idea here is that you will not take any meat out of the block and your new "rolled" threaded studs will fit fairly neatly. Then when you "set" your new studs in with a good sealer, you should have little trouble with leaks.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.II. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #69  
Old Yesterday, 20:34
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Default Gearbox selector

Just out of interest we were looking at the "correct" way around that the top of the gearbox should go. It seems that the lugs can be on the left hand side, so there is no need to cut them off, and they should not interfere with the angle bracket for the spring plunger for reverse as well. When assembled you can bench test through all gears , just to make sure the arm over the top of the gearbox does not hit your filler plug , there should be 1/2" clearance. I have also seen a gearbox with the filler plug on the other side as well, so no issues there with interference. Cheers Andrew.
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  #70  
Old Yesterday, 23:40
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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Default Crack-testing the block?

Hi Phillip,

Assume you will be getting your block crack-tested?

Not unusual to find a crack between the water jacket and the valve seats, which will cause you problems down-track.

Mike
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  #71  
Old Today, 06:01
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Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Andrew, I am sure you will have the full collection of gearbox tops. Some with no lugs, some with short lugs and some with long lugs.
My carrier has a gate, but no lockout for reverse on the gate. So, I chose to use the LP2/2a guide bracket with the sprung loaded detent that all you LP2/2a guys are familiar with. The result was that I had to change out he gearbox top because those lugs were too long for the Australian bracket (which bolts down from the top with lid fastening bolts) The two lug foul the guide plate.
The LP2 gearbox needs the top with the short lugs while the riveted carrier uses the long lugs to mount its guide plate (where the bolts go in from the side)
I hope that helps.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.II. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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