M38A1 gas tank vs CJ5 gas tank

[maple_leaf_eh]

I have two M38A1 gas tanks. One is fibreglass glued into the vehicle. The other is loose, has been coated and repainted on the exterior, but has surface atmospheric rust on the interior. I was quoted more than a few hundreds of dollars to strip, sandblast and coat it back to serviceable. I have seen replacement M38A1 tanks for a few less hundred dollars. I also see civilian CJ5 tanks for half that price.

My dilemma is this - is there a one-for-one CJ5 gas tank equivalent to the M38A1? Or, should I take the hit and buy a drop in replacement?

[rob love]

There is no direct civilian equivalent for the M38A1 tank. You will have to spend the money.

The military tank had the deeper well in the bottom, the larger fuel neck, and the in tank filter assy.

You could use a CJ5 tank and move the filler neck across, but you will lose the capacity on the bottom. And by the time you move the filler neck, you will just about be priced the same as the proper tank.

POR15 makes a do it your self tank repair kit. It has an acid wash for the inside, and the rubberizing compound you slosh into the tank to seal it. Seems to me the kits run about $100. It won't look as nice as the rad shop will do, but it will work.

I would suggest it's better to spend the money and get a new one. Before installing it, make sure you paint the heck out of the bottom, as well as the tank-well on the body. They are a crap magnet, and once the dirt gets in there, will trap moisture. Seems to me you will always find a couple of dimes in there along with one or two blank casings.

[maple_leaf_eh]

Thanks Rob:

I looked at the various sellers' pictures and had the same thoughts. The size and shape of the neck never looked quite right. I put it off to bad or indifferent webpage design. Some vendors only put up thumbnails which my browser can't enlarge (Damn you Bill Gates!).

I think I will chip some of the most offensive flakes off the outside coating and reseal the interior like you suggest. Frankly anything is going to be more manageable than the tank that is glued in place right now.

[rob love]

You will want to be cautious of that minute rust. Generally, the in-tank filter of the military jeeps will not stop that from entering the system. The particles will collect in the fuel pump, get caught up in the check valves and cause the pump not to work, or more likely they get caught up in the needle valve and cause the carb to flood.

The most telltale sign of this is when you come up to a stop sign, the jeep suddenly idles funny then quits. The only way to get it to start is to turn off the fuel until it runs again, then turn on the fuel and go. If you open the top of the carb, you will see the fine particles in the float bowl.....the telltale signs of a rusty fuel system.

An inline filter either right at the carb or just before the fuel pump will usually cure the problem, but do expect the fuel filter to plug up fairly regularly.