Modern part numbers for CMPs

[david moore]

Thanks Tony
I do have a parts book - and the Mac's catalogue. Looking at it I see that they do have the F8 - type cylinder code numbers. In fact they have package of all four wheel cylinders plus master plus hoses and shoe springs all for 190US$ which ain't bad!

I guess having an F8 is one case where the civvy pick-up stuff is closer to what is needed than for the bigger Ford CMP's.

I do notice that Mac's codes for the brake shoes don't match but I'll call them to find out if they have 11 inch drum shoes.

Cheers
David

[Bob Carriere]

Bonjour David

You should check your local brake shops in Kingston.... they may reline your brake shoes cheaper..... and they can turn your drums while your at it.......

a lot of parts are available for the Ford..... but the Chev Master cylinder is rare....... wheel cylinders for the Chev are a stock item in brake shops in Ottawa.

Both Rob Clarke and I have dealt with Ottawa Brake and Clutch with good service.

Bob C.

[david moore]

Merci Robert!

Do you have a phone number for Ottawa Brake & Clutch since I'm often up there and may get better service than in Kingston?

While we are talking about parts - what about Ford F8 wheel bearings and oil seals - and transmission U-joints, specifically the "spider" with the roller bearing caps?


David

[Bob Carriere]

David

Try Ottawa Clutch and Automotive, 1171 Newmarket Street
..... they are located para to Innes Road between St Laurent and the 417... you actually have to take Bantree off Innes to get to Newmarket..... very helpful bunch.... tell them what it is for... pictures always facinates them.

If you drive around the corner the street name becomes Michael and a few doors down is Malmberg.... they had stock wheel cyl. for the Chev using the Wagner parts number listed on the forum.

Now if you go back on Innes.... going West is changes to Industrial when you cross St Laurent.... a few blocks down on your left at 850 Industrial.... you will find Industrial Solutions...731-6161...ask for Andre Gingras... tell him what ti is for.... tell him I sent you. Ideally you will have either the exact measurements of the bearings or seals and/or old parts number. They seem to prefer seeing and measuring the old parts so I usually stuff them in a zip lock bag and take it down to them.

They are extremely helpful and the prices are very good. Now make sure he knows that the parts are no urgently needed for a production run....after all CMP are not a hot issue and he may have a repeat business clients that needs it more than we do.

If I can be of some help in picking up parts for you let me know.

Amazing what they can find with the special search engine they have access to.... usually inside and outside dimensions are all he needs. Now brace yourself... bearings and bearing race are not cheap..... to do a T case you are looking at $500 + for all bearings and seals.... but darn it... they are all available.

When I say prices are good... I was quoted from $45.00 to 65.00 for the huge front axle 5 inch seal.... they had them stock for $20.

Ron and I have collected a number of modern parts/maker/brand number and prices that we will be posting soon.

Good luck.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally posted by Bob Carriere
a lot of parts are available for the Ford..... but the Chev Master cylinder is rare....... wheel cylinders for the Chev are a stock item in brake shops in Ottawa.

Just had the master cylinder for the Pattern 12 Chev rebuilt by White Post Restorations http://www.whitepost.com/ sleeved and all new interior parts, life time guarantee and shipping $170 US one week from time I mailed it till it was back in my hands. Use the same outfit for the other two trucks as well.


One Old Car Drive
Post Office Drawer D
White Post, VA 22663

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Phil

Did the same thing with John Stuart in Stoney Creek and about the same price in CDN dollars.... he is well known in hot rod circles and does mostly industrial/commercial rebuild.......

One question.... some old master cyl. have bare steel surfaces but on a few old ones.... including the master from Rob's HUP it had a brass sleve insert. Where they doing brass insert years ago when rebuilding or where they made like that form the factory.

In Rob's case he managed to get a rebuild kit and we buffed the inside of the master cyl using a home made mop fabricated with 3M pads donuts cut and mounted on a 1/4 inch bolt. Once installed in the drill press at slow rpm it polished the inside to a nice shin.

Once the snow melts a little more I will tackle the linkage for the power booster...... will check the frame and if too far gone may just cut off the side and use it as a mock up for the duplication and trial fitting.....

Hang in there.

Bob C

[Lynn Eades]

"they" did resleeving with brass before switching to stainless.

[Phil Waterman]

The cylinder I sent them I’d already cleaned an honed to see if it could be used without being sleeved but the pitting was to deep. So far everything I’ve had sleeved has been done with brass and the first of those were done back in 1986 (knock on wood) so far none have leaked or needed to be opened for any reason and this is using regular DOT 3 brake fluid. One of the things that I think helps keep the cylinders from needing new cups etc is keeping them adjusted so that the piston travel is staying in the same nice clean area rather than moving all the way out to the ends of the travel. This also keeps the outer boots from being over flexed.

Only brake problems I have had on the with either of the trucks is with the star wheel adjusters on the back of the HUP which are the steel cup type.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Possibly useful links to look up seals and bearings:

http://www.daltonbearing.com/supplie...log.asp?sid=54

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popu...kup_457012.htm

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Hi folks... is Tony's list from 01 May '04 the best we have so far? I would urge all of you to post necessary corrections/additions and what I'll do is format this as an HTML chart and post it accordingly. I can't give any of you access to update it, but I can update and repost the list from time to time myself.

Have at it....

[Bob Carriere]

Where is the list...????

Am I having a bad day!!!!!????

BooB

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Where is the list...????

Am I having a bad day!!!!!????

BooB

Post #8 on this thread, Boobie...

[Bob Carriere]

..... I see the light!!!!

Boob

[sth65pac]

This overhaul kit is available in Australia, and is part number K4X.

It has two gaskets, one o-ring the steel valve, and the outer rubber boot. Diameter of the bore is 1-1/4"

NOTE:
It does not contain the pushrod, inner rod, or the spring.

Ian

[Keith Orpin]

Guys,
I've recently discovered that CR seals have been taken over by SKF, (certainly here in England). Having said that, there is a very good dealer here in England who will still supply seals and bearings, bearing the Chicago Rawhide ancesty, remarked with SKF numbers. If you search the CF part number, subsitute CF for SKF, and the seal/ bearing will appear.
Hope this is of use
Keith

[Bob Carriere]

For wheel brake cylinders......Wagner parts seem impossible to find....

BUT...... Raybestos has them...part number..... WC 4571 Front... $78Cdn
WC 4511 Rear....." "

Ottawa suppliers are no longer keeping them on shelf due to limited demand but they are available in Toronto.

Boob

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

WC 4511 Rear....." "

Thanks Bob,

As you know I am looking for the front wheel cylinders. I will ask Alex to chime in for his C8 cylinders.

Re. rear cylinders, I know of the following sources for the 1-1/2" wheel cylinders (original p/n 91T 2192).

1) Mac's Antique Auto Parts: 91T-2261 US$61.95 WHEEL CYLINDER REAR RIGHT OR LEFT 1TON TRUCK ONLY EXCEPT 122 INCH WB 2 1939-1952 (see pic)

2) Dirk Leegwater: these are cylinders from a DAF truck I believe, they have the wrong piston ends but Dirk supplies them with the correct pistons and dust boots. I will have to look up the price for you.

3) Derek bought both his wheel cylinders at NAPA, but I cannot find them on their site.

Originally Posted by sapper740

I can get you all three types of cylinders (rear, front, and master)here in Texas at my local Napa store.

HTH,
Hanno

[Phil Waterman]

Napa has changed their web site again - but I think I found the brake cylinders via their application search instead of part numbers.

Take a look at http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50028+2028083 see if this looks like it. I'll do some more searching.

Also I'll have my friendly NAPA store see if they are really in the warehouse.

Cheers Phil

[WayneR]

While working on a Chev FAT we have in our Regiment we ended up using the wheel cylinder from the front end of a Canadian MLVW (2.5 Ton). They fit nicely and work great.

Wayne

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Napa has changed their web site again - but I think I found the brake cylinders via their application search instead of part numbers.

Take a look at http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50028+2028083 see if this looks like it. I'll do some more searching.

Also I'll have my friendly NAPA store see if they are really in the warehouse.

Thanks Phil, I see that if one opts for online shopping all parts can be found on the site. Please note that the link you provided leads to:

Wheel Cylinder - Rear
Part Number: UP 4571
Bore Size : 1 3/8"

But the rear wheel cylinder size for a CMP is 1-1/2". This must be for another non-CMP application.

The link to the correct NAPA front cylinder:

Wheel Cylinder - Front
Product Line: NAPA ULTRA PREMIUM BRAKE PARTS
Part Number: UP 4571
Price: 42.99 Each

Features & Benefits Designed To Match O.E. Fit, Form & Function.; High Quality Rubber, Smooth Bore Finishes & Properly Threaded Outlet Ports Ensure Trouble-Free Operation.; Compatible w/ DOT Approved Silicone- Or Glycol-Based Brake Fluids.

Attributes Bore Size : 1 3/8"
Wheel Cylinder Line Thread Size : 1/2" - 20

Hanno

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Link to the correct NAPA rear cylinder:

Wheel Cylinder - Rear
Product Line: NAPA ULTRA PREMIUM BRAKE PARTS
Part Number: UP 4511
Price: 77.49 Each

Features & Benefits Designed To Match O.E. Fit, Form & Function.; High Quality Rubber, Smooth Bore Finishes & Properly Threaded Outlet Ports Ensure Trouble-Free Operation.; Compatible w/ DOT Approved Silicone- Or Glycol-Based Brake Fluids.

Attributes Bore Size : 1 1/2"
Wheel Cylinder Line Thread Size : 1/2" - 20

[Eric Szalanda]

Here are the bearing and cone part numbers for Timken that I just bought for my F15A. Next will be oil seals.

399A Bearing
394A Cone

462 Bearing
453X Cone

[Bob Carriere]

Eric

Which bearing and which cones are you referring to....... the regular large wheel bearing and race or...

....are you referring to the group number 6.1061 Front wheel pivot pin bearing New Departure #928......

..... these are impossible to find......?

Boob

[lendlease]

NOTHING IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND....if you know where to look!!! Ross Prince WWII Truck Parts in Queensland stocks ALL BEARINGS FOR Blitz trucks...even the #928 New Departure...#399, #394A, #462, #453X, etc, etc, at very competive prices. Give him a try... rossprince@y7mail.com

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Front wheel pivot pin bearing New Departure #928......

..... these are impossible to find......?

C'mon Boob,

Like lendlease says, you just have to look. When I posted pictures of an unknown bearing last year, it reminded a well known parts dealer he has a load of those #928's. . . Go look and find them on this forum!

Hanno

[George McKenzie]

I have two Ford parts manuals #1 is Chassis Patrs 1928-1938 engine ,to wheel numbers #2 Ford and Murcury Chassis Parts and price list 1938-1942 cars and trucks .There is some pictures .It has engine numbers with starters and generaters , oil filters.axels wheels brakes ect. About 2.5 cm thick If anyone needs an original number for a part let me know.

[Private_collector]

In addition to the Raybestos WC4511, an exact duplicate is Wagner WC4511.
Also listed in some places as "F4511".
These are 1 &1/2in, and come with bleed screw and dust boots installed.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

Can't remember who took over who but Raybestos seems to have taken over Wagner...... these wheel cylinders are fairly generic and have a multitude of use in commercial/industrial applications such as forklifts,etc..... both front and rear. Remember that most of these brake parts have roots to FORD....even on a CMP chev truck

They have been a off the shelf stock items in heavy truck parts stores in Ottawa or at worst an overnight delivery. Around $55 dollars in Canada.... how much did they hurt you for ...?

I remember walking into a bearing / seals store in Ottawa looking for the big 6.5 inch seal for the front brake drums..... the clerk apologized for having only one in stock but the second one will be here tomorrow he said....and $20 bucks...

Bob

Bob

[Private_collector]

Surprisingly little cost for these.

They were slightly dearer than the Raybestos list price, but as those were out of stock with no immediate plans to restock, it was the best option for me.

At Rock Auto, they were just shy of $65.00 US. That makes it roughly the same for $AUD at that time. Shipping via FedEx added further $30.00ish. So overall $160.00 for the pair, landed to my door.

I am aware of resleeving/reconditioning of originals at $75.00AUD. So basically another $5.00 each for new versus refurb! No contest really. They are a very good finish and quality from what I can see so far.

I will be buying the WC4571's for front in next few weeks.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

Shipping from the USA is the real killer for you guys.

When the cost of a new one is similar to the resleeving in stainless steel one has to think about which in the long run is best. A brand new wheel cylinder will eventually rust and deteriorate particularly with the significant seasonal changes. On the other hand a rebuilt WC with SS lining should last a life time...... in fact the rubber boots would be the first to dry up and crack.

The life of a NEW WC would also be affected by the frequency that the vehicle is actually being driven. Putting your vehicle away for the Winter for months with no driving probably causes more damage than a whole Summer of driving.

Bob