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  #31  
Old 07-12-07, 16:11
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default About the bell housing

Couple of points to be made about the bell housing (some have been discussed before in other threads). Yes the 216 CMP bell housing will bolt up directly to a 235 or 261 engine. But be sure when ever a bell housing is fitted to a different engine that you follow the process for checking that the transmission will be centered as described in the manual. This is a fussy little process but does seem to be important (if it turns out that the new bell housing is out of center) effects shifting, bearing life, and transmission noise. Now if by chance the CMP bell housing is missing or cracked, one of mine had four major cracks, you can convert a lhd bell housing to a rhd without much difficulty. Take a look at the picture below you will note that the top is a standard CMP bell housing, then look at the lower bell housing you will note than it has two clutch fork cut outs. A little careful layout work a drill press, tap, and an air grinder was all it took to convert it.
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  #32  
Old 07-12-07, 18:21
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Default right hand

You must have had to drill and tap a new hole for the clutch fork ? No?
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Model U.C. NO-2 MK II.*
SERIAL 25680
HULL 24699. LOWER HULL 24742. ENGINE TL-26707-F.
C.D. 2609.
BUILT MAR. 25, 1944.
CT 266677
Former WASP
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  #33  
Old 08-12-07, 00:07
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Re: right hand

Quote:
Originally posted by Ledsel
You must have had to drill and tap a new hole for the clutch fork ? No?
Yes you drill and tap for the pivot ball, to give the ball flange a flat surface to seat against I ground a washer to sit behind the flange ground to mate flat with the bell housing casting, also used some Locktight to be sure that the ball didn’t unscrew. This bell housing has been in the truck for two years now with no problems. The bell housing that it replaced was cracked so bad that I’m surprised that it was still in one piece. The new bell housing also needed to realigned that I did according to the book and reamed in new centering dowels.
Attached Thumbnails
bell housing conversion.jpg  
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  #34  
Old 08-12-07, 03:23
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Default ding dong housing

That's very nice work. I'm proud. Passed with flying colors.
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Model U.C. NO-2 MK II.*
SERIAL 25680
HULL 24699. LOWER HULL 24742. ENGINE TL-26707-F.
C.D. 2609.
BUILT MAR. 25, 1944.
CT 266677
Former WASP
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  #35  
Old 10-12-07, 02:58
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default Pictures of the front frame horns

Can someone post or direct me to photographs of the front without the bumper? Mine was held on by hopes and a dream and the remains look, uh, interesting.

I have welded up the steering so it is now unloaded and mobile, bashed out many dents, removed detritus and bits of junk bolted and welded here and there, ordered some bits, and assessed most of the rig.
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  #36  
Old 10-12-07, 07:49
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Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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Default

Which vehicle? Ford, Chev? 4x2 or 4x4? 11, 12 or 13 cab?

All of these will have a bearing on the arrangement of the fittings found on the front end of the chassis and bumper mounts and tow points.
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  #37  
Old 10-12-07, 15:40
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default

1944 MACH ZL-2 in sig. To quote a 1984 movie "there can be only one!!".
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  #38  
Old 10-12-07, 15:57
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Default C8A...

Quote:
Originally posted by Tony Smith
Which vehicle? Ford, Chev? 4x2 or 4x4? 11, 12 or 13 cab?

All of these will have a bearing on the arrangement of the fittings found on the front end of the chassis and bumper mounts and tow points.
Tony..
It's a C8A......
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  #39  
Old 10-12-07, 21:21
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Default

The bumper is still on, but here's the frame horns on my 1943 HUP.
Click image for larger version

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Another view.
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The missing bolts on the bumper hold the push bar on.
Click image for larger version

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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box
1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box
1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP
1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box
1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor
MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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  #40  
Old 10-12-07, 21:27
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default Perfect

Thank you. It looks as though the frame with a little tweaking is fine; it's just my bumper brackets are missing
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  #41  
Old 10-12-07, 21:49
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default What is the paint code

for the original yellowish green colour the truck seems to have been painted with? Is it Khaki Green #3? As I fix bits I would like to paint them this original base colour until I decide on the final colour...
Or do I have a choice? Was SCC2 Brown still being used in 1944?
The interior was mostly the yellow/green colour (white at the top in the back) while the exterior is two different coats, and thus shades, of green.
I would like to paint it as if it saw service in Italy.

I have searched but come up empty on actual paint codes... lots on home brew. I'd really rather not!! I have a really poor ability for colour distinction.

A fella up the road knows the code of the Olive Green used on CDN vehicles but I didn't write it down so it's lost until my next visit.
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  #42  
Old 13-12-07, 02:59
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Barry Churcher Barry Churcher is offline
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Default

Hi Shayne
Gordon has asked me to forward you some photos of the interior. Could you send me your email by PM. I can't seem to PM outbound sometimes but usually receive okay.
Thanks,
Barry
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  #43  
Old 10-01-08, 22:22
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default Dent repair

The heavy panel material of the CMP body makes dent removal somewhat more involved than standard automobiles. I have been able to remove the front fenders and use an anvil and hammer to repair them but how about parts on the vehicle? The standard dolly and hammer method is somewhat underwhelming to say the least.
I have pretty much resigned myself to removing anything that comes off for repairs but what about the main body? Is there a trick to getting these dents repaired... some are pretty impressive.

Additionally I will be cutting out heavilly damaged parts and welding in new "sheet metal". Is there a primer that I can apply that will seal the raw steel until I'm ready for paint? I have used standart automotive primers in the past but moisture penetrates which is rather counterproductive.
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  #44  
Old 11-01-08, 00:29
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Default

The first thing you learn when repairing dints on a CMP is grab the biggest hammer that you can find then go from there.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box
1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box
1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP
1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box
1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor
MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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  #45  
Old 11-01-08, 00:51
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default

I have a 16 pound sledge... I'll start there. ;-)
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  #46  
Old 19-01-08, 03:20
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default Paint and radiator

Radiator.
The radiator looks solid and intact but it could use refurbishing inside and out. So two questions:
Is refurbishing an option? I have enquired about repairs with other vehicles and the cost usually has me purchasing a new one instead.
Which brings me to the second question. Are new radiators available for these for/from other applications?

Paint.
I would like to start painting those parts I've repaired. Is there any way to source the Khaki colour used during manufacture in 1944? There are some places the colour still exists on my truck but they are either not removable or too small to use for computer colour matching... paint shops don't seem to have people who know how to match colours without the aid of a 50,000 dollar machine.
I'm hoping someone has a paint code 'close enough'. I'm considering purchasing Tamiya's Khaki model product and painting a blank then having a paint shop colur match that.
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  #47  
Old 19-01-08, 03:49
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Default

Shayne, what you need to find is an old school rad shop- someone who has been rebuilding rads for years.
Any rad can be rebuilt, just a matter of finding a guy willing to take on the challenge. They will typicallly save the top and bottom tanks and fittings and the rest will be new. They will source a new header plate and core to match up. Usually, rads have2,3,4 or more cores. These are the layers of flat cooling tubes that are assembled together to form a core. The more cores (layers) that you have, the more cooling ability.
I had a Ford cmp rad built several years ago, it was expensive but it was bang on and was better than an OEM one. My rad shop upgraded the core by installing 3/4" tubes instead of the original 1/2" ones. They even had to do some custom fabricating to make the new header fit into the old tanks. Considering the work, I think I got it for around $300. Go price a rad for a new Chev or Ford pickup...

As far as paint, a whole other subject that has been beaten to death here on MLU. I suggest you do a search for cmp paint. all will be answered. Maybe Hanno can chime in here, he is usually the guru of searches...
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1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

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  #48  
Old 19-01-08, 04:37
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default

Thanks Chris.
I find it difficult to search here. IE I cannot search CMP, SCC2, No 3, etc. because they do not meet the minimum requirements.
I did search what I could and found lots of discussion on colours but nothing tangible I can use to order or mix the colours.
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  #49  
Old 19-01-08, 07:19
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Default

I would personally save up and get the original rad rebuilt. The one in my UC finaly gave out and blew hot steam down my left side while I was driving. That was last of clues I needed to get it fixed. I wouldn't waste my time looking for a modern replacment from another vehicle. You will end up with something that will still need to be changed in order for it to fit.

As Chris says find a place that can do the job and have the best job you can afford done. It cost me about $575 with tax to have it completly rebuilt. New core, top/bottom tanks taken apart and re constructed. Was that a lot of money, yes, however my piece of mind that it wont let me down is priceless. (i know those damn credit card commercials)


As for paint. Lots of threads on this forum about it. Get in touch with Mike Starmer. He has written/ published a number of books on the subject and the best part is that they come with paint chips in the back. I think his last book on NWE paint schemes was about $20-30. Once you have the book simply take the chip in and have them match it.
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  #50  
Old 19-01-08, 08:13
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default

Thank you. I did see, in my searches here, references to Starmer's books but was unaware of the chips. Perfect.
I wasn't thinking modern rad I, was thinking that the rad used in these was sourced from GM's inventory and that perhaps a stovebolt rad would be the same...
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  #51  
Old 19-01-08, 13:12
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Shayne, I am not sure about the chev rads comparing a cmp one to a civvy one etc but I do know that a Ford cmp rad is its own beast, nothing other than an original is correct.
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1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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  #52  
Old 19-01-08, 16:29
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is online now
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Default Chevrolet radiators

I am sure that the CMP radiator support is derived from the part used on the 1940 (and earlier?) civilian 1 ton trucks. That explains the circular cutout in the angled face at the front top. It was originally to allow clearance for the mounting bolt and wiring for headlights. The part numbers for the supports do differ, as you would expect since the CMP ones are cut offs from the civilian pattern. The cuts don't all seem identical so I wonder whether the CMP supports were originally stamped as civilian parts and individually cut off, all similar but not identical. The C15A parts list gives 3 numbers for the radiator support for different serial number ranges, without the note "when stock depleted use number...." so the differences were of some significance to matching the cab assembly.

As to the radiators, you could take the part number(s) from your CMP parts list and go into the Master Parts Lists at www.tocmp.com to see if you find a match to a civilian part (probably not before 1938 or after 1942 but stranger things have happened so you may want to check a wider date range). The C15A parts list has 5 different radiator cores, while the C60L parts book lists 6 different cores (the 5 for the C15A plus a special for the 6 pdr portee). The radiators do have the "when stock depleted use number...." note, except for the difference of whether there was a fitting of the overflow tank.
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  #53  
Old 19-01-08, 16:53
cletrac (RIP)'s Avatar
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Default

The rad cores are the same as some civvy Chev or GMC units but the mounts are different but interchangeable. The tanks seem to be the same too. It's fairly easy to sweat the mounts off one rad and solder them on another. If you get into the cab 12s the filler neck is different too.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box
1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box
1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP
1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box
1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor
MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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  #54  
Old 02-02-08, 01:38
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default What goes here?

Besides my finger? It looks like a small data plate that is missing.... not my finger the space on the dash.
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cmpdash..jpg  
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  #55  
Old 02-02-08, 01:48
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chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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Yes, Shayne, you are missing one of the data plates. If memory serves correctly, it repeats the truck serial.
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1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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  #56  
Old 02-02-08, 01:48
cletrac (RIP)'s Avatar
cletrac (RIP) cletrac (RIP) is offline
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Default

It's the body type plate like this one has.
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100_0749.jpg  
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box
1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box
1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP
1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box
1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor
MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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  #57  
Old 02-02-08, 01:53
cletrac (RIP)'s Avatar
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Default

Or in your case, one like this.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set
1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis
1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun
1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends
1941 Cab 12 F15A
1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5
1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box
1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box
1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP
1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box
1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor
MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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  #58  
Old 02-02-08, 02:04
Shayne Shayne is offline
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Default

Excellent. Thank you. Is there any way to find out what mine should read?
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I don't know the same things that you don't know.
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  #59  
Old 02-02-08, 02:22
chris vickery's Avatar
chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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Shayne, maybe I will get this one right...

Yours should read something like: C.HU-441-MACH-ZL-2
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3RD Echelon Wksp

1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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  #60  
Old 02-02-08, 03:16
Mike Timoshyk Mike Timoshyk is offline
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Default body plate

check out the various data plates being offered by Bruce Parker

there may be one there....it is in the for sale page.

mike
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