How to apply paint question

[gary_bath_jr]

Hey All

I just got the paint that I am going to use for my truck and would like to know if anyone here uses it straight from the can or do you thin it out?

I got 595-33070 from Willy's Acres and the only label is the sticker that shows the number and colour.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Gary

[TCLARK]

Most of the time you thin paint out. This is really important toget a good job.The best way to do this is with trial and error. It also depends on the type of paint gun you are using. Gravity guns will work ok with slightly thicker paint but again do a try out on scrap before starting the job.

[gary_bath_jr]

I have the Siphon Feed spray gun, would you reccomend about a 50/50 mix to start and test with and then go from there or would that be too thin?

Thank you for your reply.

Gary

[r.morrison]

Hi Gary: When spraying paint, the maximum you should thin the product down is 15%. However.... this also depends on the product and the spray gun. 50/50 is definitely OUT! As suggested by Mr Clark, a lot of it is by trial and and error. Start out with a 10% thinning and do a trial spray on a "white surface". This will show you whether you're getting a nice fine/uniform spray pattern or spattering, which means the paint has to be thinned down a little more. Also experiment with the tip fan and the air pressure. In essence you have to marry all 3 together. Air pressure, tip size and viscosity of paint. It's not hard.....just a little patience and a comfort zone that you can work with. If you have any further queries, drop a line here on the forum......Robert

[r.morrison]

Gary....from how you describe the labeling on the paint you purchased from W/A, it would seem to me that they're getting made from a local source and private labeling it. Under normal conditions, most of the info your looking for should be on a proper label. You should find out which "thinner" you should use for this product, contrary to my earlier input. Paint that is sold to the general public HAS to be properly labelled for public safety. Otherwise our friends in W/A could get their asses sued off.

Trying to help you out....but also....this is my area of expertise!! Robert(CMRS)

[hrpearce]

When I bought my syphon spray gun I was lucky. There was a painter in the shop and he asked me if I knew what I was doing and when I said no he gave me some pointers. He told me to thin until the paint ran off a metal rule in a constant stream and only started dripping when almost all the paint was back in the pot.

[Jordan Baker]

Consistency of milk always worked well for me. I just relied on the good'ol mk1 eyeball to measure it out. Rarely had any problems.

[jason meade]

I have used this paint many times in the past, works well when mixed 4 to 1, and do not use thinner, you use reducer to thin paint and thinner to thin primer.
They remove the lables to insure you dont go to Glispie Coatings in Texas and have some made,venders do this to protect there intrests...But very easy to catch on to the game.

[Lauren Child]

I was told a while back to thin paint for spraying to about the same consistency as milk, and that seems to have worked for me (same as Jordan above).

[Private_collector]

Gary,

Every brand & type of paint has different mixing requirements. The makers specifications should answer all questions in relation to your enquiries. Although you have not been given a proper label, the supplier should be able to supply the 'Data sheet' for correct mixing, thinning/reducing product, spray technique and most importantly...safety precautions! Also of great importance is the exact substrate preparation needs. Use of the right primers and fillers for the type of paint can be vital. For example, if you have used enamel primer, but intend to use an acrylic top coat.........well, the enamel will 'fry' up once the acrylic thinners are applied, and you will get a god awful mess. You can do things the other way around though. Acrylic undercoating can be covered with enamel or 2 pack paints, so long as you 'key' the two paints properly with right grade of sandpapers.

Without all the appropriate technical info for your paint, you won't get a finish anywhere near as good as your potential best. As others have said, there is also a great difference between the thinning/reducing products, and you MUST use the correct one for your paint. Then there is possibility that you can also add a hardener product, to effectively turn fairly standard enamels into a product of much greater resiliance and longer life.

A note of caution: all paint is dangerous if inhaled (and other ways into the body), but some, such as large proportion of the 'two part' urethanes contain chemicals that, when mixed, create free floating isocyanates. That is essentially, Cyanide gas! Inhaling these fumes directly will certainly damage the lungs. This damage may not be evident until years later, when lung problems such as shortness of breath or chest infections start happening. The correct respirator must be worn.

Anyone can apply spray-paint. It's not a hard job to do.............but, to achieve your very best results, you will certainly need all the information to assist you.

Hope this helps.

P.S: I always use a graduated/marked mixing cup for achieving desired proportions of paint components. These come in many sizes and have a range of mixing ratios clearly marked on the sides. Get a metal stirring stick too! They also have the mixing ratios for most paints, and are just as effective as the measuring cups, if you can't find them, plus they are very easily cleaned and will last forever if looked after well.

[Darrin Wright]

I agree with everything Tony has mentioned above, informative and easy to understand. Contact the paint supplier.
General rule of thumb, if paint is not thinned down enough it generally won't spray and goes on thick, if thinned too much will run easily on the finished product.
Temperature when spraying is also important.
I use my wifes digital kitchen scales for measuring out the paint, flatening base and thinners, that way I get the mix correct every time.
To save money on mixing cups etc, I also use 2Lt empty (and thouroughly washed) square milk containers. They are light weight, fit on the scales, square shape assists with pouring paint into gun, and when finished with go in the bin.

[r.morrison]

Tony: Move to Vancouver and come and work for me.....Robert

[gary_bath_jr]

That is a lot of very usefull information. Thanks a lot guys. Tony I will definitly read your info a few imes over to make sure I get everything right.

Darrin, I like your idea of the milk carton, I think I will have to incorporate it into my process.

Thanks for all the help

Gary

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by gary_bath_jr

Thanks a lot guys. Tony I will definitly read your info a few imes over to make sure I get everything right.
Gary

No problems Gary. You are most welcome.

There's a lot of things I don't know much about, but painting I know because I worked for some years as a 'Vehicle Refinisher'.....spray painter basically, but that sounds much more important!

[George McKenzie]

Hi Gary .Get a hi volume low pressure gun ..I have used the JGA De Villebus gun that most body shops use to use but you will find it easier to do with the gun with the can on the top . I have a gold plated Sata gun , German , That does a great job . I also bought a $130 one for doing small parts . See you in a couple of weeks when the convoy goes to Alaska .

[rob love]

If the paint is Gillepie brand (and I believe the stuff from Willys acres may be) then use Xylene to thin it. Xylene can be found at most house paint supply stores, and should run around $25 a gallon.

I get my Gillespie paints from Rapco and shipped to the border. Runs around $51 a gallon once all the costs are in.

[chris vickery]

I believe the Gillespie to be an ordinary alkyd enamel which can be thinned with all kinds of stuff. I usually use zylene or medium enamel reducer at a rate of about 10 to 20% reducer to 80-90% paint.
As others have pointed out, it is a balance between paint thinness, air temp, humidity, equipment, pressure etc.
I always run a part pot through the gun on some test subjects first to see how it flows, adjust paint flow and air flow as required. If I can't get it to spray nicely, obviously it is too thick.
Reducer plays an important part dependant on air temp. For summer time and not too hot, usually medium works best.
I think my next gun is going to be a HVLP (high volume, low pressure) set up as you waste far less paint due to overspray and can get away with low PSI from your air source.
Another point is to use an oil free airline with a water separator, especially if you do not have an air dryer on your comp.

[George McKenzie]

Robert Morrison Would I be correct to say that you can supply military paint for the guys ?

[r.morrison]

Dear George: Long time no hear from....To answer your question ...NO, I don't supply Military Paint to The Forum.

For the years I've been on the forum, this area has become a "Dog's Breakfast"! If you read back on the original question posted by "Casey B" on the thinning down of paint and it's application.....it's all over the map!!

My point to the forum was that every manufacturer has a set of specifications to applying their product. Reducing the product on average is 10 to 15 percent.....not 50 percent! All of this depends on the product your using, the spray system your using, tip size and pressure. All of this has to be married together. Simple as that!!! When's the the last time you heard that line on the forum!

In the case of "Casey B".....He lives across the street from me and to help him out we just need to get together and make it happen. I can help in out in matching colors and product. How he applies it is his business.

This is a reply NOT to discredit those who have responded to this dilemma, but just simply stating some facts.

As the old saying goes "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder"

As a professional decorator, this is an every day occurrence for me, however , if I can be of service to you, drop me a line.


Nice to hear from you....Robert

[r.morrison]

In my last reply, I referred to "Casey B" and I should have said Gary Bath Jr. Well S""T, I had a Seniors moment. However...... on top of paint blah blah....I have a nice 216 engine for Gary. Gary, I'll send you photos this week.....Robert