Removing a bogie from the axle...

ajmac · #1 14-07-11, 00:55

OK, it's got me, is there anything special required to pull the bogie from the axle once the retaining collar has been removed? It took me an hour to get the bl**dy collar off but the bogie won't even rotate on the axle let alone pull off

I will soak it in penetrant oil for a while and see where we go from there....
Have a look below:

rob love · #2 14-07-11, 02:39

I can't say I have ever had a problem removing the collar off the shaft. I usually tap the flat blade of a screwdriver into the cut and spread it a bit.

On a proper cross shaft the bogie would just slide off. However on a length of rusty pipe the results are obviously different. Pull the grease fitting on the bogie assembly and fill the hollow with penetrating oil. I would suggest the first step after that would be to get the bogies to rotate on the shaft. You could cut the pipe off and then use a pipe wrench on the remaining stub. Once you get it to turn, you might be able to work it out.

Lynn Eades · #3 14-07-11, 02:48

They have a wide bronze bush in each side. If it was in nice cond. it would just slide off. There are a few possibilities; 1. schrapnel damage 2. they have seized due to lack of lube, and could be gaulled (bronze or steel has picked up on the other. 3. the unit has big wear, and it is caught on a wear shoulder. This is unlikely as you cant turn it.
First, what are you trying to save? I suspect it the axle (the casting is not a Loyd one?)
I would work on shedding weight. Start with the penetrating oil.Remove the nuts from the rods. Get/make a puller for the rods, and draw the rods back far enough to move the other end clear of the holes in the bogie fork. Remove the axles and wheels (all 3)
Remove the clamp bolt and punch out thr bogie fork pivot pin. ( one end has the collar pinned to it. the other end has a lead on the pin. drive from this end) Remove the arm. (there are seals in here-might be hard to get)
Now back to what you want to do. If you dont want the casting you could cut it. If you want to keep it, you are going to have to set up a puller to drag the casting off by pushing on the shaft. you will probably need to fabricate some sort of strong back to go around the cross shaft.
The springs dont look like Loyd ones either, they look like U.C. ones.
Are all Loyd springs the same? Hope some of this helps. I really enjoy your posts. Cheers.
Note:Remove you brass pressure valve first, and put it in a safe place.

Ben · #4 14-07-11, 09:39

Hi

One of mine was stuck solid, I suspect similar to yours by the look of things. I found the best way was to make a small "bath" from a plastic bottle, i siliconed it to the end of the shaft and left a commercial rust remover in the bath to soak into the rust. you know when it starts to work as the level of liquid begins to drop!!!.

Mine was still attached to the hull so i could jack up one side and leave the weight of the hull on one wheel as the rust dissolved this allowed the boogie to rotate on the shaft. It did take some effort once it was moving to get it off but once it starts to rotate it only gets easier!!

It took a few days to soak in enough to move but i tried pullers and heat, hammers, jacks, you name it....... in the end the leave it and wait solution worked best!!! no damage to either part and the axle was good inside where the grease had been. It's only the small section at the ends that rusts. like Lynn says, the middle section is a brass bush.

Good luck

Ben

eddy8men · #5 14-07-11, 10:14

all good advice already given, if it were me i'd file the rust off the end of the shaft and fill the thing with oil then walk away and let it soak. when you've got bored of waiting go back with a sledge and get the bogie to rotate around the axle by knocking it back and forth, once it starts to move it won't take long.
this is of course the brute force way of doing things and i'm sure there's others more elegant ways but i've always thought that "if in doubt give it a clout"

good luck with your endeavours.

rick

ajmac · #6 14-07-11, 11:22

All good advice, thanks.
You wouldn't believe the hardship in removing parts when a vehicle has been on a firing range. A component will look fine, untouched, then in some out of the way place there is a small schrapnal mark that makes disasembly a nightmare. The bogie retaining collar looked fine, but on close inspection there was an impact that went right through to the shaft welding the whole thing together! Now I know there is a brass bush inside I have a warmer feeling about it all

The bogie is original and Loyds had the same part number as UCs, interestingly post war the Belgians must have used up old Windsor stock and the track and two wheels on each side are Windsor items! In the photo the right hand wheel is Windsor with the wider rim and push on tyre.

Lynn Eades · #7 14-07-11, 12:41

There are two bronze bushes, 1 inner and 1outer, with a gap in between for grease. they push into the bore from each side. there is a shoulder on the end of the bushes to locare them. Thanks for the heads up on the parts compatability. It leaves me wondering what the set of springs I have are for. They are longer than UC springs, but are wound from a smaller dia. wire. Maybe a different model, or earlier Loyd.
On that note, can you post a picture from your parts book of the fan extention, generator etc.

kevin powles · #8 14-07-11, 10:06

Alister, What you will find is your inner coller opposite to the one you have removed is probabley rusted, What you need to do if you have no proper hydraulic press is to hang the whole thing up on a chain block after first removing the road wheels and spray in plenty of release oil with the thing tilted down so the release oil will run into the coller area, leave for a few days. Get a plummers gas bottle and heat up the coller for a while.

Clamp the square part of the cross tube in a large vice and with it still supported on a chain block. Put your road wheel pins back in and get yourself a 6 foot plus scaffold pole and start rotating the whole thing on the cross tube back and forth. Once it starts to turn carrying on rotating it in a anti clockwise direction, between rotating it you can attemt to tap it off the cross tube with a large copper mallet.

Once you get it rotating it will come off, this worked for me. I have just made up three new collers as like you had to chisel out the outer ones.

All the best kevin.