Torque setting for wheels

[Drew Sydorko]

Anyone know the lug nut wheel torque setting for 16" rims on the CMP?

Thanks,

Drew

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Drew

Actual torque values were not in common use at the time. So you have to sort of work backwards from the tools they gave you to work with, in the trucks tool kit. If memory is serves me the LUG wrench in the tool kit has a 2 foot bar. So I figure that means the average guy in could put something north of 150 ft.lbs. on a lug wrench.

Having said that think I use 110 ft.lbs. on the torque wrench. Yes, I like you, use a torque wrench to get "even" torque on the lug and wheel nuts. Using a set value gives some thing to check against later. Then you can check the torque later to see if you have to move the nut to get back to value.

Couple point from experience always recheck the torque after 25-50 miles. If the wheels have been assembled, rims painted etc check them again. Also torque the rim before inflating.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Phil

[Drew Sydorko]

Thanks Phil. I just got back from the shed and thought a conservative 120 lbs on the wheel nuts would be good for now. Snap! Broke the stud with the nut. Is it difficult to replace? I'm so ticked at myself.

Drew

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Drew Sydorko

Thanks Phil. I just got back from the shed and thought a conservative 120 lbs on the wheel nuts would be good for now. Snap! Broke the stud with the nut. Is it difficult to replace? I'm so ticked at myself.

Drew

Hi Drew,

It should not be too hard to replace the stud. Use a large mallet and a large pin punch/drift to knock the broken stud out through the olive on the wheel side. A bit of heat on the olive helps as does soaking the stud with a penetrant beforehand.
I heat the olive with just a propane torch and that helps to expand the olive to enable the stud to be driven through it.

An important point though:

If it is on the rear drum check that the stud has not been tack welded to the rear drum.
I have seen a number of drums where this is done and if it is you will have to carefully grind it away in able to knock out the stud.

I learnt this the hard way many years ago when I took a drum to the local machine shop to have a broken stud removed. they put it on a press without checking it and bent the thin hub disk rendering the drum useless. The studs had all been tack welded to the rear of the drum on either side of the raised lug as per photo attached.

Since then, I have seen both welded and non welded studs so check carefully if it is a rear drum before swinging a large mallet!

Hope this helps and it it goes well for you.

Cheers,

[Drew Sydorko]

Jacques,

Thanks for the helpful hints. I'll look for the tack weld. It broke on the front driver side. I'm currently sourcing new RH bolt and nut. I've got a 42 15cwt CMP. Any idea on part numbers for these parts. Thanks, Drew

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Drew,

Not sure if yours is a Ford or (GM/Chevy) but from my Ford F15A parts book it is listed as *CO1Q-1107 - Bolt - Front hub R.H. 8 Required

Note: *CO1Q-1108 is for the left hub and has Left handed threads so is not interchangeable.

If your truck is a Chevy/GM CMP them someone else may be able to give that part number.

Cheers,

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Drew Sydorko

Thanks Phil. I just got back from the shed and thought a conservative 120 lbs on the wheel nuts would be good for now. Snap! Broke the stud with the nut. Is it difficult to replace? I'm so ticked at myself.

Drew

Hi Drew

Which side was the stud that broke? Wonder if it had been over stressed in the past by someone confused over left right thread. If somebody had gone at the nut with an impact wrench trying to remove it turning the wrong direction pretty easy to have loaded it up past 300ft.lbs.

The studs on my HUP are all welded on the inside of the drum.

Please keep us posted on your efforts to replace the stud and nut.

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Drew,

Just realized I gave a few hints on getting a broken stud out but nothing about replacing it in the hub and drum.

I found the rear wheel studs practically push into the hub by hand if everything is well cleaned up. Maybe a few light taps with a hammer but nothing more is required. I can't say how the front ones go as I never replaced one of them. I put Never Seize on the stud in case it ever has to come out again (but not in my lifetime though!) Not required really but as I had it on hand, I used it.

After the stud is firmly home I backed it up with a solid block of wood then drove the olive home using a piece of pipe that just fit over the threads. I wanted to make sure nothing got damaged so I wrapped the threads with electrical tape and put a copper washer on top of the olive to prevent nicks and flat spots as it was driven home. Maybe a bit of overkill, I will admit, but there was no damage when I was done to any machined surfaces.

Hope this is of some help and I am sure there are many other ways to do it but this worked for me.

Cheers,