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  #811  
Old 02-06-20, 04:05
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Installed the tail, brake and convoy lights the other day. The pictures don’t do justice for just how bright these LED’s are. Even from a 45deg view they stand out. I’ll be going with two brake and two tail lights. I realize the original only had one brake but to be safer I’ll go with two.
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Willys MB, 1942
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  #812  
Old 02-06-20, 14:09
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Only one brake light? Really like those bright lights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
....... I realize the original only had one brake but to be safer I’ll go with two.
Hi Jordan

I wholeheartedly agree that good visible brake lights are a necessary safety measure.

While the wiring diagram, in the manual, shows only one "STOP LAMP" two of my trucks 1945 HUP and 1942 Pattern 13 C60S appear to have been wired originally with two brake or stop lamps one each side.

So that rear of the HUP had two of the two light tail light brackets the drives side one has a toggle switch which turns off both tail lights (rear marker) turns on the black out or SUB LAMP which shines on the rear differential. The C60S has the sub lamp on the side of the frame in the form of push switch like the high low headlight switch
The brake light isolation switch is up on the dash.

When doing my first CMP wiring harness it was for my HUP which fortunately was very complete to copy, using the wiring diagram for the size and wire markings.

Cheers Phil
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 02-06-20 at 14:49. Reason: Hit wrong key
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  #813  
Old 02-06-20, 17:18
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default tail lights

I also use the LED bulbs but went a little further with magnetic tow truck tail lights, with turn signals. I can fold them up out of sight when on display. And they add lots of visual cues to anybody following.
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  #814  
Old 03-06-20, 04:05
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All good ideas. The harness came with separate signal wires installed. So if I add extra lights the wires are already in place.

Today was a full day spent in the shop. I made up the tray and cover for the Chorehorse generator. It was mounted on the left cab step. The Chorehorse is also mounted on a sliding plate so it can be dismounted. However it is my belief that it was intended to be run while on the cab step.
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Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #815  
Old 05-06-20, 00:01
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Yesterday and part of today was a sewing day. I made up the canvas that fits between the radiator and the cowl. This was my first time using a treadle sewing machine. I don’t really have the foot rhythm down but I managed to get everything sewn. I also had to make up some stiffened burlap to go between the layers of canvas. I used carpenters glue and water. It seemed to work very well to match the originals.
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C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #816  
Old 05-06-20, 00:04
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And the big task for the afternoon was getting the cowl assembly back on the truck. I added all of the anti squeaking strips beforehand. The cowl fit very well and only needed some gentle persuasion to get all the bolt holes to line up. Next up will be hooking up all the electrical wires and lights.
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  #817  
Old 05-06-20, 01:47
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Are you going to dip her tyres in some water on the 6th, Jordan?


David
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  #818  
Old 05-06-20, 06:01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Dunlop View Post
Are you going to dip her tyres in some water on the 6th, Jordan?


David
Possibly, but if I do it will be close to home.
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Otter LRC
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Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #819  
Old 13-06-20, 17:23
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Well the DDay drive didn’t happen due to some home renovations going on. But it did go for a small drive yesterday. There is some ongoing timing and hard starting issues that will be looked at this week.
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Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #820  
Old 17-06-20, 04:58
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Timing issues have all been sorted out thanks to the assistance of another MLUer. Turns out the main issue is that the securing bolt for the distributor had come loose and the whole unit spun out of timing. The carburetor also seems to be running a bit rich and will be looked at in due time.

Now onto the latest task. Wood working for making the WS19 battery boxes. A lot of new skills are being learned in the past day but thankfully the internet has some awesome tutorials on jig making. One thing to say.....I can’t believe the mess working with wood makes.
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Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #821  
Old 17-06-20, 19:21
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Makes good mulch or compost for the garden, Jordan.

David
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  #822  
Old 17-06-20, 21:02
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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I use it to soak up oil spills.

David
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  #823  
Old 21-06-20, 03:02
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Took the truck out for some better pictures today.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #824  
Old 21-06-20, 03:03
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The rest of today’s pictures.
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  #825  
Old 21-06-20, 14:09
Stewart Loy Stewart Loy is offline
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Default Excellent work.

Jordan,

That truck looks great - you did a great job!

I better get up to see it live.


Stewart

PS - that is a nice looking canvas top!
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  #826  
Old 21-06-20, 15:51
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Thanks Stewart.

Yes that lady did a fantastic job on those covers you had made years ago.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #827  
Old 21-06-20, 17:15
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Awesome is the only word that comes to my mind looking at your pictures Jordan !
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  #828  
Old 25-06-20, 05:27
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Battery box project is moving along nicely.
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Otter LRC
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10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #829  
Old 28-06-20, 00:10
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And then this happened a few days ago. Another milestone hit for this truck.
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C15A-Wire3, 1944
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10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #830  
Old 28-06-20, 01:12
Stewart Loy Stewart Loy is offline
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Default No excuses?

Congratulations - that is the final hurdle.

Now you can parade to your hearts content!

Well done.

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  #831  
Old 28-06-20, 20:20
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Took the truck out for its first good road drive. It handles great with no wobbles and stops fantastically. I did have two issues with it. Number one was my speedometer went haywire and started spinning all over the place. I’m not sure if the cable was binding up in the outer casing or if the speedometer itself has issues. The second issue I had was the temperature gauge going up over 220 degrees. The radiator is a new core and the engine block was totally flushed out. I’m thinking I’ll check for any restrictions near the thermostat. When I stopped off at a friends farm I left the engine idling. When I left about 6min later the temp was down to 170. By the time I got home it was up around 210 or so.
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  #832  
Old 28-06-20, 21:18
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default About the speedometer

Hi Jordan

On the speedometer try loosening the cable nut on the back of the speedometer. My HUP with late style dash the speedometer doesn't like having the cable nut tight been that way since got it 40 years ago. Same problem with three different speedometers, if nut on cable is tight I think it loads the bearing on the little cup inside just enough so it rubs and makes the needle jump around. Loosening it a half to full turn seems to solve the problem.

One speedometer I had to replace spun up so hard that it rapped the needle around the limit pin.

On the thermostat did you say this was a new or old one and did we discuss exercising thermostats before installing?

Also do you have the steam relief valve open or closed? With my trucks I've found I get more accurate and quicker response from from the temperature gauge if the steam relief valve is just barely open, it helps the coolant flow up through the fittings and passed the sender.

Great work on your truck, I've really enjoyed following your progress.

Cheers Phil
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  #833  
Old 28-06-20, 22:17
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Curious about the heat. It seems to be under load and OK when at an idle. Blockage? Timing? Rich mixture (what do the plugs look like)? I've had that problem with Fords but have a hard time getting Chevs up to a working temperature. I look forward to hearing what the cause is. Is rad fluid making it to the overflow can? Why is the can on the outside?
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  #834  
Old 28-06-20, 22:54
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Phil.

Ok thanks for the tips on the speedometer. I’ll check the nut on it.

My steam relief tube does not have any shut off. It’s always open.

Bruce,
Yes this was while it was under load. If it idles for about 10min the temp comes down to around 180. Then after about 10 min of driving it’s climbed back up to over 210. There is a chance it may have an air bubble in the system. Part of me wonders if the water pump is spinning too fast at the higher end and there is some cavitation going on or I’ve got a blockage somewhere. All things to investigate.

I do not yet have the radiator overflow can hooked up.
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  #835  
Old 28-06-20, 22:54
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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I would question the thermostat and then the gauge itself.

David
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  #836  
Old 28-06-20, 23:06
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Herbert View Post
I would question the thermostat and then the gauge itself.

David
The 'how long can you keep your hand on the rad tank' test...when the gauge is in doubt. If it's really running at 220 you'll know pretty fast. Because of where the temp gauge is on a carrier and the difficulty in reading it I often resorted to checking the temp with my left hand on the upper tank.
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  #837  
Old 28-06-20, 23:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Parker View Post
The 'how long can you keep your hand on the rad tank' test...when the gauge is in doubt. If it's really running at 220 you'll know pretty fast. Because of where the temp gauge is on a carrier and the difficulty in reading it I often resorted to checking the temp with my left hand on the upper tank.
Hmmmm now that I think about, I’m pretty sure I got the temperature gauge from you years ago. Lol
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10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #838  
Old 28-06-20, 23:37
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
Hmmmm now that I think about, I’m pretty sure I got the temperature gauge from you years ago. Lol
Warranty expired in 1944...
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  #839  
Old 28-06-20, 23:38
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default Temperature

I learned to drill a small hole in the thermostat to allow some leakage and the release of any trapped air. If you are running a 216 you might try loosening the temperature sender and make sure that there is no trapping air under it.
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  #840  
Old 29-06-20, 01:16
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Thanks Harry, Ill take a look at that too.


Bruce......dang
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Willys MB, 1942
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