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  #91  
Old 09-06-15, 17:37
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My biggest challenge was finding a bayonet socket that would work also as a pivot for the hood. I lucked out with a couple of lights from another project. However I did have to modify the socket a bit. The bast was cut down and turned into a circle. I soldered it to the outside of the hood. The socket tube would now be the pivot for the hood. I also had to cut down on the actual length of the socket as the original was too long to fit the bulb once it was put together. The dremel came in handy for cuting the slots longer and drilling out the grove for the stubs on the bulb.

Lastly I needed more of the little shouldered screws for the cab nose ventilators. I only had one original screw left, so I made some new ones on the lathe out of 3/8 hex rod.

Other then time spent both of these porjects proved to be very budget friendly. The map light cost me $3 for the washers as the rest of the steel came from my scrap pile. The screws cost $1.51 for a 10" piece of hex rod from metal supermarket.
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  #92  
Old 09-06-15, 18:53
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Default Definition of.....

...a true restorer........

One who does not get hungup on parts numbers for items he needs but take basic material and makes his own!!!!!
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  #93  
Old 14-06-15, 04:55
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Default Information about cab sliding rear windows steel

Hi Jordan, good morning.

In the moment, I restauration the C-15A and I need a information about the about cab sliding rear windows steel, can you help me?

I need a dimension, new pictures and other information for construction the parts in my truck, because my truck not have this part, see the pictures.

Very good your work.
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  #94  
Old 17-06-15, 23:04
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Joćo, I believe that information is already on the forum. Im not too sure where though, but I will see if I can search it for you.

My dash map light is all complete. I decided the paint the inside in white. Im not too sure if the orginals were but I figured it makes a bit of sense. I also created a new wire for it using new made period correct wiring. Now I am looking for a Map light switch plate. Does anyone know of a place I could get a reproduction made?

Ive also got one fuel tank relined with tank sealer from Mac's. I used this stuff for a fuel tank on my carrier and I was really happy with it. I washed the tank out with muratic acid letting it sit on each side for 5min. After this I dumped out the acid into a bucket then began flushing the tank with lots of water. I also half filled the tank and put in a box of baking soda. The more flushing. I then rinsed the tank with the fuel tank etch that Mac's sells. To do a final drying I put the tank on the BBQ to heat it up and remove all the moisture. Once the tank was dry and cooler I poured in the tank liner and began rolling the tank around to coat all the surfaces. I currently have the other tank soaking with a water/marine clean mixture (it still had old gas in it). I'll be leaving this to soak for a few days then I will repeat the steps. Once the insides are done I will be coating the outside in POR15. This should make the tanks last a lifetime.
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maplight07.jpg   maplight08.jpg   maplight09.jpg  
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  #95  
Old 18-06-15, 04:45
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default What kind of switch.......

Nice job Jordan.

what kind of switch are you looking for???\

On the rear window sliders... I believe that Phil Waterman made some for his trucks and it's documented on his site.

Cheers
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  #96  
Old 18-06-15, 05:11
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Hi Bob. Thanks for the compliments. I'm just loving the fact that I'm enjoying this rebuild and pushing myself with a number of new to me skills.

It's not the switch that I'm looking for. It's the small data plate that mounts between the toggle and the frame. The plate is the same as found on the pat11/12 cab trucks for all toggle switches. However this one says "MAP/ON/OFF". I know the other plates have been reproduced but I'm not sure if the map one has.
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  #97  
Old 18-06-15, 05:37
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Default Ask Brian A.

Got my switch plates from him...... never seen one for a map light...... maybe a simple on/off plate if it is in close proximity to the light.
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  #98  
Old 19-06-15, 23:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
that is used in basketery...
Hmmm, from your basket making experience? You gov'ment types hihihi
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  #99  
Old 20-06-15, 02:52
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Not much to report other then picked up a small item today. I have been gathering parts for a couple of the dome lamps that will be fitted in the rear of the truck. I was able to get an NOS one at the last show and Im now in the process of making one more that I needed. I had a grill already but it was missing the milky white glass lens. Luckily Mac's Antique Auto Parts sells this very same lens. I was also in need of the orignal heavy duty ark less push/pull switches. A search on Ebay found me two identical switches for $10 each. Im always amazed at what is still available or is currently being made for regular vintage civilian vehicles.
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  #100  
Old 21-06-15, 02:23
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Two fuel tanks all wire wheeled. The one tank has the tank liner all poured in. Tomorrows plan is to acid wash the inside of the other tank and then pour the liner in. Once that is done the outsides will get the POR15 treatment.
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  #101  
Old 25-06-15, 14:44
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Lots of work was accomplished over the past few days. The fuel tanks were both sprayed with POR15, then given a coat of tiecote primer and finally a coat of SCC2. Then installed on the frame. For the tank strap/pads I used the anti-sqeak material from Mac's. Hopefully these tanks will last a lifetime.
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fueltank02.jpg   fueltank03.jpg   fueltank04.jpg   fueltank05.jpg   fueltank06.jpg  

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  #102  
Old 25-06-15, 15:03
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As I said I got a lot done. Took 3.5 hrs to make up the main fuel lines. These run from the tanks to the change over switch on the cab floor. I went with 5/16 cunifer brake line and did the double flare ends myself. I wanted to have 1 peice lines to minimize the joints. The coils of line were done to allow for the difference in the cab and frame bouncing. A small line was also made from the change over switch to the fuel filter. I think I will wait until the engine is back in before making the line from fuel filter to fuel pump. Partly due to the fact that im not too sure on the route for it to run and where and if I should have a piece of flexible hose inline.

I also made up new tank cap chains. I found some old brass sash chain that the previous home owner had used to hang a light in the shop. Soaked it in vineager overnight to clean it up. Lastly I needed to make up two lead washers to seal the bottom of screw head against the filler neck. So out came the butane torch and the solder and i made up two blobs on the anvil. Pounded them out flat, drilled a hole and then used a punch to cut out two washers. Results a nice perfect conforming washer to seal the hole.

Lastly I got my correct length 5/8" screws and finished off the side screens. They are made from all original parts except for the strapping, windows and fastners.
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fueltank07.jpg   fueltank08.jpg   fueltank09.jpg   sidecurtain07.jpg   sidecurtain06.jpg  

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  #103  
Old 25-06-15, 15:04
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Lovely work on the tanks Jordan! Just like Bob I was also very curious how you fixed the tanks; My tanks require more than a small patch panel, I'm afraid.....and I don't want to blow anything up.


keep up the good work, Alex
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  #104  
Old 25-06-15, 15:05
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Next up will be repairing the fuel tank senders. Both appear to be good to use and just require cleaning. After this I will be doing the cab roof and rear wall sheet metal work. Then its jack the frame up and block it so I can then work on the brake system. Fun times are ahead.
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  #105  
Old 25-06-15, 15:39
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Default Cork or Brass Floats

Hi Jordan

First, great work I'm enjoying see and reading your progress.

Now to your next step the fuel gauge sender units are they Cork or Brass Floats? Reason I ask is that I have recently had to replace the cork floats on my CMPs and M5 generator they all sank. Just can't count on cork only been sitting in gas for 70 years.

Went over to brass floats.

In part I think it is the changes in gasoline which is helping it saturate the cork.

Cheers Phil
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  #106  
Old 25-06-15, 16:31
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One of the sender has a double cork float that appears to be sealed. The other sender has the wire curved looking like it would snap around a brass float, however there is no float. I was thinking of dipping the cork floats in the Mac's tank sealer to seal them against any fuel.
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  #107  
Old 25-06-15, 22:46
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Default Check that it still floats

Hi Jordan

As somebody mention, I think in a thread in the last year, that after sealing a cork float make sure it still floats. They had dried a cork float then coated it in gas tank sealer got the entire thing reassembled in the tank in the truck to discover that the sealed cork no longer was buoyant in gasoline.

This made me check float assemblies I rebuilt using brass floats before I put them in the tank.

Cheers Phil
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  #108  
Old 25-06-15, 23:07
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Default Using old cork.....

I never use old corks on my fine wine bottles..... and I think the same applies to a 75 years old dried up cork....

I would be concerned that they are soooo dry they act as a sponge and suck way tooo much of the sealer....almost to the pointof overcoming their natural ability to float.

some of the corks we have removed were coming apart when rolled between your fingers.

Besides Jordan lives in the Ontario Wine country and should be able to get new cork easily..... and I don't mean by emptying the bottle in your glass.

Cheers (hic!!)
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  #109  
Old 26-06-15, 00:03
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Good point Phill and Bobeeee. I didn't think of the fact they would soak up too much and be heavy. Brass it is. Im not a fan of rotten grapes (I mean wine) so that avenue wont help me much. lol
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  #110  
Old 08-07-15, 19:58
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Not much to report. I was able to get a Map light switch tag made up. It was made with a laser engraving machine. I feel that it turned out looking rather nice.
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  #111  
Old 13-07-15, 05:19
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Finished rebuilding both fuel tank senders. I checked them out with the ohm meter and got decent readings. They were given a sandblasting to make the arms clean and free moving. I painted the tops in POR15 to hopefully seal out any chance of rust inside them. I picked up new floats from Mac's Antique Auto. They fit perfectly in the curved part on the arm.
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  #112  
Old 18-07-15, 00:49
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I have finally started in on doing major body work. I removed the cab lower wall skin using a spot welding drill bit. it worked reasonably well except I found it cut into the base metal sometimes and other times it really wandered around. When I removed the skin three of the wall braces fell right out. I went down to metalsuper market today and picked up a sheet of 18ga sheet metal. They cut it all to size for me. Tomorrows task is to sandblast the frame and then begin attaching the panel. Once I get this done i will be moving onto the roof.

One aspect I am not to sure about is how to paint the backside of the frame. I would like to POR15 it but then Im worried about how to weld the skin on. If I weld the skin then POR15 everything will I get it sealed enough to stop rust formation inside the joint?
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  #113  
Old 18-07-15, 02:50
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Default How do you planned to weld?

Hi Jordan

How do you plan weld the panel on? Pinch spot weld, or plug weld?

Either way you will need to clean down to bare metal at the weld points, if you are going to plug weld I'd lay out the panel drill holes to match the spacing on the orginal. Prep the cab frame paint with POR 15 let dry real good then mark all the weld points, spot grind all the weld points to bare steel. Be careful of the fumes from welding close to POR 15. Think you will get pretty good rust protection down in the joint.

If you are going to pinch weld then I'd go with a weld through primer on panel and cab frame. Some of the weld through primers work better than others. Best one I've found for good welding is SEM 40783 Copperweld which welds really weld with MIG or Pinch Spot no personal long term testing on rust protection. Other that I used is Martin Senour NAPA 7221 Zinc Weld Thru Primer, it doesn't weld as smoothly with MIG and it needs a light coat for good spot weld, but it does protect from rust very well. I've had test panel with just the NAPA stuff out in the rain under roof edge hanging so that it gets wet every time it rains. No rust after two years.

Hope this helps

Cheers Phil
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  #114  
Old 18-07-15, 04:01
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Default A whole different approach.....

Hi Jordan...
.....Hi Phil

I am at the same place as Jordan.....removed the rear skin.... replaced the bottom angle and now getting ready to do the new skin.

I am using satin coat steel in 20 gauge and will use Norton metal glue used in body shops. The angle iron frame and back braces have been sandblasted, phosphated and painted with POR 15 but left the contact area for the skin bare.

Plans are to use the Norton 90 minutes set and clamp everyting in place. The reason for using the Norton glue is that it will seal forever any gaps between the skin and the angle iron...... which we all know tends to rust after 75 years.....

We have limited but positive experience with the glue having done patches on Grant's cab 13 rusted top portion. seems to hold very well and seals very well. It has cycled in 2 Ontario Winters not sure how it will look after 75 years parked behind the barn.

We are working on top of a large steel table with a very stiff ( 5/8 SS) top. We will precurve the sheet metal with rollers and try to get as good a physical fit as possible before glueing. everything will be clamped mildly to the table top with small sand bags pressig down on the wall reinforcement brackets.

No spot welds will be used.

If that works well the door skins are next with the same process except the edges will be double glued and folded back on themselves as if spot welded. The inside of the door will be painted with POR and proper drain holes cleared up.

Body shops that I have talked to swear by it strength and ease of use. I was told that in certain designed body crush areas they regrain from overlapping the glued panels by more than 1 inch as it increses the strength too much and defeats the crush zones.

Only time will tell. will try to document with photos to be posted on the Hammond Barn site.

Now back to the POR 15 combination with spot or rosette welding...... should work if you allow sufficient room for heat travel or cool off quickly with wet rags. POR as very limited endurance to heat.

Jordan once you have done your welding consider dripping POR in whatever gap might exist....... it has a great tendency to inflitrate and move by capillary action.

For example after welding a bolt hole shut anddoing the final grind everything looked very good. I painted one side with POR and flipped the part over to paint the other side and a tiny small speck of POR actually penetrated a pin hole and totally sealed the patch.

Good luck to both of us...

...and more to come on this back wall issue.

Cheers
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  #115  
Old 18-07-15, 04:05
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Default Suggestions....

Jordan

Consider using a 3/4 plywood sheet supported by 2x4 on the side between your saw horses or get a surplus laminated door as a work surface....

Cheers
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  #116  
Old 18-07-15, 07:54
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Thanks Phil and Bob for all the tips and suggestions. I am aiming to do the welding early next week. I love being off on holidays.

I'm thinking I will sandblast the frame and then paint with POR. Layout the new sheet and drill my holes for plug welding. Then go and mark the spots on the frame and grind those down. Once it is welded on I'll use a flap wheel to smooth out the welds. Then flow the POR along the seams to try and get it all sealed up.

Bob I've got four different work tables in my shop. I've got a metal clad bench. I was given a 4'x8' home made table with 3/4" plywood on top. I use this one for all my welding needs. Then I have a set of Cnd Tire saw horses with a piece of melamine coated desk top. And lastly another pair of Cnd Tire saw horses to use as needed. They have probably been the most useful things I've bought from Cnd Tire in a long time. Currently on sale too.
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  #117  
Old 19-07-15, 01:24
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Default Foegot about using adhesive

Hi Bob

Forgot about using adhesives I've used the 3M automotive adhesive system use on cars today to replace door skins. Not sure that it is more rust resistant than paint and welding all you have to do is look at the inside edge of 15 year old cars in the rust belt to see rust blisters in the the paint where the edge folds over on the inside.

Of course the level of rust protection it will give our CMPs that live indoors drive primarily only in the summer, I'll bet that they will not see the rust problems we are repairing now.

Back to CMPs one thing I noted on replacing body panels that are spot weld to channel iron is there is no sign of any paint so it is pretty clear that the panels were welded on bare and then painted. So what we are doing today to prevent rust will be talked about by the guys in 2115 who are restoring these trucks and wonder where the will get this stuff they called gasoline to make the trucks run.

Cheers Phil
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  #118  
Old 19-07-15, 02:39
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Sandblasted and painted the frame with POR15 today. Tomorrow I will be laying out the new sheet metal and drilling all the holes to plug weld it. Then Ill go back and grind away the POR15 at the weld spots.

For the sandblasting I had picked up a simple portable unit. I wasn't sure how well it would work but I was suitably impressed.
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  #119  
Old 19-07-15, 14:26
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[QUOTE=Jordan Baker;211939]Thanks Phil and Bob for all the tips and suggestions. I am aiming to do the welding early next week. I love being off on holidays.

Jordan, I thought you were a fireman! You mean they give you holidays as well?
Barry
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  #120  
Old 20-07-15, 07:26
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Well my first bit of real sheet metal body work is almost done. It took a lot longer then I anticipated. I started just after 10, stopped at 1400 or so for lunch (coincidently Cnd Womens beach volleyball was on), started working again around 1500ish or so and then called it a night around 2100.

Since I don't have a roller I decided to just start at one side, clamp, weld and clamp some more then weld some more. Move the clamps along and continue my way across the wall. For welding I decided to plug weld. What I came up with seems to give really good welds. I'd clamp the sheet down tight to the frame, mark my holes with a sharpie. Then using my handheld drill if drill a 1/4" hole through the sheet and just into the frame. I'd then blow the bits out and then weld it up. I found by drilling into the frame I got nice clean metal and the sheet was held tight to the surface. I'd do 5-7 welds, take the clamps off and then grind down the weld with a flap wheel. It was slow but it seems to have done a great job. Other then my frame being a little out of shape in a few spots it should all be fine. I figure once I have the wall bolted to the cab frame I can always pull/push it a bit for a better fit.

Pictures will be posted sometime tomorrow.

@Barry...... You don't wanna know.... It'll make you shake your head......
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Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
C15A-wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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