2Pdr anti tank gun manuals

[Jon Bradshaw]

I am working on a 2pdr and looking for a manual to show me how to take it apart. It is in good shape but the trails and traverse are very stiff and have taken a lot of work and manpower just to get them to budge.
It has been thoroughly welded around the breach but still makes a nice looking gun.
Not mine and not for sale.

[charlie fitton]

I covet.

There - I said it

f

[David Burr]

Nice to see a 2pdr on the later model mk4 6pdr trail. Where is this one from?
I have the remains of a 2pdr mk 4 trail that we are going to put our 2pdr on, we just need all the bits between the legs and the gun

[Jon Bradshaw]

This gun is here in Edmonton and belongs to a museum. It has been an outside display gun (front door guard) for the last 8+ years and I brought it in for some TLC. It was heavily painted by an uncaring paint crew and everything is covered over in thick green paint. As an outside gun this probably helped it in the long run but to see it seizing up due to no grease applied to moving parts
The trail is very stiff and I am hoping to sort it out with liberal amounts of WD40. I will grease everything with axle grease before it goes back out in the spring. Being covered in snow all winter was my excuse for bringing it in but once it melts out goes the gun again....

[Ron Pier]

Rob Van Meel has reprint literature covering the 2 and 6 pounders (click-British-weapons- RA). He also reprinted my concise original manual covering the Mk1 and Mk2, 2 pounders, but I can't find it on his site. Maybe contact him:-

http://robvanmeel.nl/

Ron

[kevin powles]

Hi Jon, The 2 pdr manuals will only help for stripping the barrel and breech mechanism, Once you remove the shield which then allows you to remove the barrel by taking off the two saddle top keeps you essentially have what is left all 6pdr, so you will need the manual I’ve attached here. The bracket which attaches the elevation gearbox to the recuperator is also unique to this mk of carriage to compensate for the smaller barrel ( I wouldn’t mind sone pictures of yours once you remove it). When you come to try and remove the pivot socket from it’s keep you will most likely have to weld a flogging bar onto the nut (fig 25) to get it to unscrew.

Kevin

[Jon Bradshaw]

I may have been a bit too liberal with the words "take it apart" I am not allowed and have no intention of stripping it down to basic bits. I was looking for some pictures of how to access the traverse and see what if anything could be binding up the trails from closing. The enthusiastic response to me stripping it down was nice but this is not a gun that needs to be rebuilt. My intention is to lubricate and protect it before it goes back outside. The liberal paint is protecting the outside but the moving parts need liberal lubrication to keep out the moisture and dust. I got the traverse to move and it was completely full of sand, likely from wind blowing it around. The trails are still very stiff (takes 4 of us to open or close them) but I am working on finding what is binding them up. It seems to be paint but they jam completely when forced to max open or to full closed. No locking pins or debris that I can see. More grease and sweat.
This is one of 4 items of the rolling stock that I have taken on as a project to clean up and get running reliably. My intent is to begin using them at shows and anywhere they get invited to attend. Making them able to showcase vehicles which otherwise sit and gather dust is my goal here.
Thanks for the help.

[kevin powles]

Hi, If your not going to strip the pivot, then plenty of penetration oil in the top and work them back and forth with ratchet straps to close and long bars on the end to open or sissor jack to open. Have fun.

[David Burr]

Hi Jon,

Are you able to put up some more pictures of the 2pdr to help me with the details for our one? Does it have all 6pdr sights and elevation equipment?

[Jon Bradshaw]

Sorry David but it has few of the sighting parts.

The elevation and traverse are complete and are now working well.

The right side trail has had a repair done to it in the past and is not lining up with the left when closed. More work is needed to make it close and lock for travel.

Here are a few pictures of the gun elevation and traverse not sure what you are looking for in detailed pics. The optical sight is not here but the iron sight is intact. Just to the left of the scope mount you can see the peep sight and iron front post. The scope looks through a small aperture in the shield but you must open the shield cover to use the iron sights.

Let me know what else you would like pics of.

[David Burr]

Hi Jon,

Thank you for those photos, confirms the 6pdr sights.
Are you able to get some photos of the breech ring MK number?
Also pictures of the recouperator and mounting of it will be useful too thank you

Regards,
David Burr
New Zealand

[Jon Bradshaw]

David

Here are a few photos as requested. Perhaps you or someone on here have the number registry book to see the history of this gun? I would be curious to know.

[David Burr]

Thank you Jon for all the pictures.

I do not have any registery books for any artillery pieces, would be an interesting read though!

[Jon Bradshaw]

Kevin

The dimensions on the outside of the shield are as follows- I used a cm/inch tape for you. See pic #5 for the better explanation. These are all on the center axis of the dome because the shield has angles that are hard to explain.(measured to the steel edge not the weld) Might be a bit loose with the exact sizes but only by an 8th inch/ a few mm or so.

From the bottom up 3 inches
From the front angle back 3 inches
from the sight cover/ shield down 1 inch
From the back forward 4 inches

On the inside the dome hole is 7 inches/ 8 on the outside with welding visible
The dome stands out 1 inch
The distance from the edge of the traverse wheel is 2 inches (very tight on the hands)

The traverse wheel is 7 inches across.

Also a finer point, possibly a standard or just a quirk with this gun the side of the breach is painted in a very abrasive non slip paint which takes the skin off your knuckles very quickly while turning the wheel. If you are not careful it can be quite painful.
As I say it seems a weird sort of thing to do... Anyone chime in on why this would be like that?

Hope this helps.

[kevin powles]

Hi, Many thanks for measuring it, most helpful.

Kevin.