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  #31  
Old 16-08-17, 04:07
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Houdaille shock absorbers

Hi David,

Wish I could tell you how to un-seize them but I can't. Years ago I tried everything from filling with Penetrene, acetone, and even soaking in kero for a month. Nothing moved. I didn't try brake fluid and acetone together as has been mentioned before as a great penetrant for seized nuts and studs. Perhaps that might work?

I wound up getting them restored by Frank Curcio in Melbourne who specialized in reconditioning those type of shock absorber as used on A Model Fords but are a bit smaller. He took a couple extra ones apart for me so I could have a look. I don't think he is still in business though. To do it again I would do it myself as all he did was heat up the arm at the pivot shaft while using a puller that he fabricated for the job. Once the arm is off, the hardest part, the rest comes apart easily for cleaning.

As per the photos Houdaille shock absorbers are beautifully machined and that is the problem. Once the fluid congeals or goes hard in those tight clearances it effectively locks everything up.

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

There are a few websites that explain Houdaille shock absorbers which makes for interesting reading.

Hopefully I got the ball rolling and someone will be able to add to this.

Cheers,
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  #32  
Old 17-08-17, 00:19
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques Reed View Post
Hi David,

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

Cheers,
Further to previous post:

The attachment lugs are stamped either "AC" for anti-clockwise or "CW" for clockwise. See attached photo.

The filling plug should always be on the top too, so if it is at the bottom it probably has been mounted on the wrong side.

Cheers,
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  #33  
Old 02-09-17, 13:33
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Does anyone know if the old style valves (tapered bottom) are sodium filled? I'm having a great deal of trouble removing the old valve guides. I want to cut the bottom off the valve, remove the valve, then drift the guide out from the cam side.....
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  #34  
Old 02-09-17, 20:33
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Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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Default

It's not an uncommon problem, and "back in the day" there were 2 styles of tools designed to attack the problem. Funnily enough, both were recently for sale on Ebay AU (I wasn't the buyer or seller, although I might have placed a bid). Keep an eye out on Ebay US, they do appear there quite frequently.

First, the bridge type. Remove the horseshoe clip holding the valve guide. Lift the valve enough to slip the centre threaded casting over the opened valve. The outer tube is placed over it and spans the valve seat area. Wind the nut, and keep winding, nothing will resist and the whole valve, guide and spring assembly will be drawn out of the block. Flatattack Racing did reproduce this tool for some time, and with his trademark excellent machining, but they have not been available for some years.

And secondly, the punch type. Again with the valve open, slip this under the valve and around the valve stem, and find the biggest hammer you've got and take one last look at your knuckles before you drive the guide into the lifter valley.
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Last edited by Tony Smith; 02-09-17 at 20:42.
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  #35  
Old 04-09-17, 12:29
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Just picked these up!!!! 6 x 12-20 wheels and tyres! I've just got to buy tubes! Do these rims require a rim/tube protector? I was thinking of making a rubber band to protect the tube from chafing!

If anyone is wondering, I want 2 spares!

Truck is going to be military original, but with a Adventure truck tray/roll bars! That's the plan so far!
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  #36  
Old 04-09-17, 12:49
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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I,m still considering using bolt cutters on these bottom valve stems. The guides can be drifted out if I do!
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  #37  
Old 04-09-17, 16:32
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Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Yes to the tube flap

Hi David

Yes you will probably want to use tube flaps to protect the tube. Depending on how the tires were stored you may also have to open them up so that the mounting lip will slide on the rims. Will look for the thread where this was discussed. It's in the Hammond Barn Series.

The problem is if the tires have been stacked they may have closed down at the opening. One of the things I have done is to put the tubes in with the tire laying on the floor and just inflate until the tire opens up to about the width of the rim and let them sit for a day or two. Seems to save on wrestling match.

I've been running 11:00x20s non-directionals on my C60S for 27 years with out problems. The 12:00x20s should give you a little more rubber over drive.

Cheers Phil
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  #38  
Old 04-09-17, 16:41
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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Default Valve removal

OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley. Then replace the broken valves and two piece valve guides with straight valves, single piece guides and adjustable lifters.

Mike
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  #39  
Old 05-09-17, 04:35
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Cecil View Post
OR just break the head off the valve (quick sideways tap with a hammer on the open valve forced up with a jemmy bar underneath the valve stem base) and use a standard punch to drive the lot into the valley.

Mike
Don't let the garage WO1 see you doing that . You would have been on a charge for damaging His Majesty's precious equipment

This is how its done https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C188811
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  #40  
Old 12-09-17, 10:34
David Nicholson David Nicholson is offline
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Great Video Mike!

Ok, just got the block back from its acid bath! After an hour or so with the wire brush, it's looking so much better! The great news is that it looks like a good block! No cracks found on first visual inspection after brushing. Will clean some more and check the problem areas.

Next step will be to somehow pressure test the water jacket just in case there are any porous areas.

Once I'm convinced that it will hold coolant it will go back to the machine shop for a re-bore. It's a standard block at the moment 3.1875 bore. There is some pitting on a couple of cylinders, so will order pistons once the final bore is established.

Will order parallel valves and single piece guides etc. ATM I will keep the original cam, although not ideal, it's an expensive item to replace.
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  #41  
Old 12-09-17, 12:09
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Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Yes you do need a "flap" (rustband) in your tyres.
Congrats on the good block. Are you getting it crack tested?

There are 3 7/16" pistons available for these blocks(not that I am recommending you do that) although 3 5/16" is pretty safe. (they are meaty in the bore walls) What I would suggest is a set of modern pistons, and a good quality modern set of rings. (along with the things Mike suggested) Don't be tempted by "cheap"
If you are able to locate a good mercury crank, that gives you a 4 inch stroke. The longer stroke is good for torque. As a preference the longer stroke is better than the bigger bore if you have a choice of one. A merc crank requires different pistons, so you have to sort out your plan first.
You need to read as much as you can.
I have just recently fired up my motor. 3 5/16 Ross pistons, with a std (3 3/4) crank. This gives me 258 cu.in.

Learn about ZDDP, What are good adjustable lifters, Cleaning out the block, Pertronix etc.+++
Enjoy the journey.
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  #42  
Old 12-09-17, 18:01
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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Pity you are in Australia (or that I'm not!) as I have a set of eight new 3 5/16", 4-ring pistons & pins and rings 'surplus to requirements'.....

Plus a 1/2 set of 4 new 3 3/16" pistons and rings .... (don't ask me why!!!)

Anyone in the USA or Canada in need of a set?

Mike
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