Looking For Help to Identify Carrier Please and Thank You

Seatyger · #1 26-03-12, 02:01

Hello Guys;

My Son and I have started to scrape off some rust and get into the initial clean up process. I want to say thanks to those that gave me the Heads Up where to find the Identification Numbers.

The Numbers stamped into the metal in front of the Driver (For lack of the proper descriptor) were as follows from Left to Right-

CT 115075 S O (or 0) 1942 9503 (Then a 2 and 1 laying over horizontally to the right)

Thats is all I could see after some minir scuffing with a 3M Pad. I will bring some white-out to try and make them more legible.

On the angle iron behind the Gunner's Head was stamped CP 1636.

I have been digging through Nigel's Books but can't seem to locate that serial Number range.

Seatyger · #2 26-03-12, 02:13

OK may be silly question, but if I throw out some photos, can anyone tell me or confirm which version this is?

I'm prepared to wear the Duncecap or buy the Beer, I'm leaning towards MK I because of the rear steps have the rubber, not the welded in checker plate etc. However, without the boxes, lights bells and whistles I'm not sure.

I scrounged up some parts etc., including the piece that had the numbers, I just want to make sure they are in line with the Carrier I brought home and not the 'Hull' that had been converted into a trailer.

Thanks for your time and patience.

Jim

Some photos are in the 'Finally Got it Home; Thread.

peter simundson · #3 26-03-12, 03:05

Do you start it by pushing a button on the dash.....Mk 1

Or...Lifting a lever on the left of the driver's seat.....Mk 2

Peter S

Seatyger · #4 26-03-12, 04:42

OK Guy's, I've been 'Schooled and Spanked' via PM's and emails and MK I it is LOL!

Thanks for your help

RichardT10829 · #5 26-03-12, 12:26

your lucky the provenance is still there should be a straight forward job welding it back in...you may need to use stainless wire in a mig but dont quote me.

Stew Robertson · #6 26-03-12, 14:21

The best method of welding it back in is with stick using 7018 rod
That way all the seams will be able to be ground back as per original
( no stainless weld line)
Using 7018 rod will also retain the hardness of the original plate
Stew

RichardT10829 · #7 26-03-12, 15:14

Cheers Stew... i knew someone would know the best way....either way its good that the cut out bits can go back in.

Seatyger · #8 26-03-12, 15:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stew Robertson

The best method of welding it back in is with stick using 7018 rod
That way all the seams will be able to be ground back as per original
( no stainless weld line)
Using 7018 rod will also retain the hardness of the original plate
Stew

Thanks for the info!

Jim

Nigel Watson · #9 27-03-12, 00:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seatyger

Hello Guys;

My Son and I have started to scrape off some rust and get into the initial clean up process. I want to say thanks to those that gave me the Heads Up where to find the Identification Numbers.

The Numbers stamped into the metal in front of the Driver (For lack of the proper descriptor) were as follows from Left to Right-

CT 115075 S O (or 0) 1942 9503 (Then a 2 and 1 laying over horizontally to the right)

Thats is all I could see after some minir scuffing with a 3M Pad. I will bring some white-out to try and make them more legible.

On the angle iron behind the Gunner's Head was stamped CP 1636.

I have been digging through Nigel's Books but can't seem to locate that serial Number range.

Hi James
Is there a chance the WD No. is 113075? I can't make out the 5 very clearly so was wondering if it was a 5 or 3. CT113075 would make it contract CDLV213.

Also the 2 lying to the right is an inspection mark and the 1 is likely to be the tail of the arrow which usually goes with the 2.

Not sure what the S or 0/O is unless the S is a 5 for month of manufacture which usually precedes the date.

Anyway congrats on another carrier saved and great project.

Nigel

Ralph Volkert · #10 27-03-12, 19:38

Congrats James and Welcome

The numbers you posted need to be re - examined. I will post a copy of my list of UC ID numbers when I get home. You can compare your numbers and it will give you a feel for where yours lies.

The number behind the Gunner/commander is the upper hull number,
it should read: CB XXXX (Canadian Built). "CB 1636" is WAY too low a number, could it be a 7?

I believe the 9503 would be the Serial Number. There should also be a number stamped on the outside rear angle iron of the upper armour. (where it joins the rear fender) This is your Lower Hull number. In a perfect world all 3 numbers would be the same but they will be close. The Serial Number is the upper Hull # + 1000 +/- small amount

In my Case For example

Upper hull number = CB 8075
Lower hull Number = 8105
Serial Number = 9075

Build Date = June 1942

If you have the original motor The serial number there will be of help in
Dating your Carrier.

To Bring out the numbers rub with 0000 steel wool. and spray with WD40. This will polish/lighten the high spots and the WD40 will darken the rust/dust in the numbers and darken them. It will also evaporate incase you want to try again.

Seatyger · #11 27-03-12, 21:30

Thanks for the the tips and advise, I will get back at it and try to bring some more life into the numbers. When I went to photograph them, i brought the camera but forgot the SD Card................hence the crap Blackberry images.

Jim