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  #91  
Old 03-01-18, 03:41
Phillip's Avatar
Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Fortune favours the brave....

Thanks Mike,

As this carrier had very little paint left on it and nothing from which I could discern the pattern, I figured I had some licence to adopt the NT colour scheme.

The grey is is as close as I could find to the AWM sample and has been correctly applied using a brush (with stokes at right angles to the line of the curve) over the green. With a bit of practice, it's surprisingly easy to get the curves and they have this sort of slightly sharp/ slightly feathered edge.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #92  
Old 03-01-18, 03:54
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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Default

We'll all look forward to some overall images in due course. In the meantime, great work.



Mike
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  #93  
Old 04-01-18, 09:26
Wayne Henderson Wayne Henderson is offline
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Location: Western Australia
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Default nice tank mister

Hey Phil, looking good and up to your usual high standard. My favorite colour too, Envy Green.
I'm sure there's a rule somewhere about only painting carriers green and brown
Awesome work!
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  #94  
Old 04-01-18, 15:26
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Where does the time go.

Does anyone ever spend a whole evening in the shed and at the end, wonder what they achieved?

The screws holding the bushes in the swing arms for the rear bogies were either missing or too damaged to re-use so I had to make some more. I found a gasket company to cut the seals as well and these should arrive next week.

Started on the fuel tanks, one is bone dry, the other has the congealed jelly fuel residue that we all know and love so much. I've sealed that tank and currently running a few litres of acetone in there to start cleaning out the gunk.

Plan is to use the POR15 fuel tank sealer. I've used this system a few times before with good results.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #95  
Old 21-01-18, 01:37
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Location: Western Australia
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Default A differential pinion....

The long awaited pinion pilot bearing is currently clearing customs so should arrive next week.

In preparation I re-cleaned inside the diff and fitted the new bearing races. NOS crownwheel is fitted to the diff centre. Here's the matching NOS pinion next to the old one, you can see the amount of wear in the teeth. I guess the old one would have been okay for a while

Diff gaskets and seals are sitting on the shelf, so once pinion bearing arrives, just have to press the new bearings into the diff centre and pinion, then bolt up and fit diff.

Next, suspension......
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #96  
Old 21-01-18, 18:52
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Default Setting Diff

You may already know this but with setting up the diff the preload on the side bearings of the crown wheel is only achieved by the thickness of your gaskets on the two halves of the diff housing. Good idea is to set this up without the pinion in so you can rotate the crown wheel through the hole to get the desired preload, then when you have worked out how many gaskets you need pull apart , put pinion in and seal gaskets and bolt together, just my idea anyway, cheers Andrew.
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  #97  
Old 28-01-18, 10:40
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Exhausting work......

Just after the New a Year, I dropped an original exhaust pipe into the local muffler shop to get them to bend the pipes and find some mufflers that were as close as we could get to right dimensions. I picked up the components from the shop on Thursday and spent the long weekend fabricating and fitting them.

There were a few issues, the first being that I could not get the pipes mandrel formed locally, so had to contend with changing pipes diameters caused by press forming. The second issue was that the mufflers are close but not identical to the originals - The main difference being the that inlet and outlet pipes are 2 1/4” (pipes are 2”) and about 1/2” further in from the edge when compared to the originals.

The change in piper diameters was overcome by turning up some bushes, this allowed me to, starting at the bottom, position everything then weld the pipes to the bushes, whilst allowing the bushes to sit snugly in the muffler.

Once everything was cut, assembled and tacked in place, the top pipes were welded to the muffler and the original cut offs on the lower pipes were welded in place before a (incomplete) coat of paint was applied.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar

Last edited by Phillip; 28-01-18 at 10:42. Reason: Grammar
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  #98  
Old 30-01-18, 15:18
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Hmmmmm........ back to the drawing board

The semi hollow rivets turned up today, so with a glint in my eye and a handful of rivets I disappeared down the shed for the evening.

Using guesswork and black magic, I made up a former to hold and roll the rivet end and welded these to a sturdy g-clamp. Results are 50/50, the tool works okay but I now have to find some 3/4” rivets and modify the tool to get the right angle on some of the rivets.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #99  
Old 30-01-18, 19:37
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Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default

Phillip, over here I used some aluminium rivets. I followed exactly what a friend had done. because of the small quantity, the company supplied and sent them free, believe it or not.
They were solid aluminium with the countersink flat head, and the right length.
I set up a dolly with knob on it, to keep the counter sink finish, and peined them over.
I must add, it was not the most successful thing I've ever done.
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  #100  
Old 12-03-18, 13:36
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Kept in suspense.....

The diff has now been rebuilt, twice. The first time with the correct gasket size 0.010” but this did not provide any backlash, it took a slightly thicker gasket 0.040” to give the right amount of backlash. I can only put this down to the NOS crown wheel/ pinion and bearings and maybe they were ever so slightly different.

Diff is now all installed. Dropped the brake drums and pads into the local brake shop and they will match the pads to the drums.

Assembled the trailing bogies. The nitrile bushes fit and seem to work well at keeping the grease in.

One set of springs are installed, the other boggie is installed and just the other set of springs to be painted and installed. To completely strip and rebuild the suspension has been a laborious job, but I suspect will be well worth it.

Now I can finish making the new brake rods.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #101  
Old 29-03-18, 16:55
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Red and Orange and Green and Black.......

Brake drums and matching shoes are back from the brake man.

The grease seals in the hubs were obviously what ever could be found locally and a galvanised steel shim of around 1mm in thickness was used to hold them in

New grease seals have arrived courtesy of Macs Auto in the US of A (same part number as per the manual) and new snap rings from the local bearing shop.

I cannot find the little steel cap that goes over the top adjuster. It’s probably not that important but would be nice to find.

When I took the springs off, they were not coloured and were all over the place. Some careful checking to the manual and some references has hopefully enabled me to work which spring is the right colour and therefore where it goes.

The first hub is back on and the shoes centred, the second hub can go on until the cap turns up and then I can complete the brake rods.

The engine is still in the machine shop - it needs a new cylinder liner, the heads and block faced and four broken studs extracted. 4 months down the track the studs are out, hopefully another 4 months and the rest may be done
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #102  
Old 02-04-18, 14:24
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default ....it’s the sudden stop.

With the new brake pads fitted last week, Over the weekend I fitted the matched drums and centralised the pads in the drums (well I think I have, there seems to be very little movement in the cam - following the manual, the process seems to be ‘set by feel’ with no way of checking, no wonder the drivers manual tells the drivers not to touch it!)

I made up new brake rods out of some 7/16” 1030 steel rod (courtesy of a friend in Geraldton who can spot 7/16 amongst a whole pile of 12mm stock )

The local brake & clutch shop found me some rubber boots that are a perfect match for length and diameters - both big and small.

Test fitting everything works, even the park brake! Not sure about the return springs, these are a little lighter than original so I may need to find a closer, heavier spring.

Just now have to paint and reinstall.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #103  
Old 02-04-18, 23:51
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Default

Excellent work Phillip . I've been looking for those boots , I'll use that number and try and get some over here thanks for posting . Dale
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  #104  
Old 07-04-18, 12:12
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Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Spring is in the air.......

I have to admit, this has been my least favourite job, pulling all the suspension apart, removing all the rust, cleaning and painting has been time consuming. But then you get it all back together and it’s a big step closer.

I learned a trick today, when compressing the spring, if the rod moves left or right of the other end of the of the suspension arm, it is very difficult to get get the other springs and the ball end in. The trick was to place a washer under one edge of the spring compression tool to get it to pull the rod straight. Also, this job is definitely a lot easier to do with the suspension on the carrier.

Now onto the front two units, hopefully in time for the arrival of the re-rubbered wheels.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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  #105  
Old 30-05-18, 14:06
Phillip's Avatar
Phillip Phillip is offline
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Default Keeping me in suspension.....

I am nearly at the end of the suspension. The last bogie is all stripped and the springs, rods, balls, cups, washers etc have been cleaned of rust and painted, ready for assembly.

The idler wheel bearings were in excellent condition so the wheels, once cleaned of solidified grease mixed with dirt (making something akin to concrete), only needed modern seals to replace the old perished cork seals.

I am still waiting on the engine machining to be completed and the re-rubbered wheels to arrive.

Here is the spring and rods prior to cleaning and painting and the other front bogie installed.
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Phillip Thompson

"He who has the tiger by the tale, is often afraid to let go" - Confucius

Ford FGT No.9 (long suffering restoration project)
25 Pdr
BSA WM20
Norton Big Four (in pieces)
LP2a - 3" Mortar
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