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  #1  
Old 07-01-11, 00:29
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default New Hampshire CMP Barn 2011- 2012 HUP Overhaul

Hi All

Well I'm going to copy the Hammond Barn concept a little and start a new thread on HUP overhaul project. I say over haul not restoration because this HUP has been on the road since 1980 and is basically a sweet running truck. But after 30 years of use and enjoyment it has developed some problems which need a basic overhaul. The engine on this truck has never been apart.

The three photos below show the starting point (12/11/10) and progress (1/6/11). I expect to have the body off next week. My goal is to have the truck overhaul and painting completed by our Club's Summer Rally the end of July.

I've a time lapse camera clicking away and I be posting more pictures on my website in the near future.

So if you have any questions about details on a late 1945 ask them and I'll take extra picture.

Cheers Phil
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Copy of HUP 12-11-10 #4.jpg (61.0 KB, 169 views)
File Type: jpg Copy of Beast Rebuild Camera 038.jpg (57.7 KB, 168 views)
File Type: jpg Copy of 1-6 Beast Rebuild Camera 031.jpg (49.3 KB, 167 views)
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com

Last edited by Phil Waterman; 02-04-11 at 00:32. Reason: More discriptive
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  #2  
Old 07-01-11, 02:16
RHClarke's Avatar
RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Way to go, Phil!

Since you usually are the first to respond to the yearly Hammond Barn update, I thought it appropriate to respond in kind with your thread. I await further photos with eager anticipation.
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  #3  
Old 07-01-11, 02:47
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Looking forward to your progress....

....ain't the web a great tool for staying in touch...........

Bob
President
Local Hammond chapter
The Phil Waterman fan club....
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  #4  
Old 07-01-11, 19:58
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Nick Bullock Nick Bullock is offline
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Default Hup

Hi Phil

Happy memories, I am watching with great interest.

regards

Nick
Yorkshire
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  #5  
Old 15-01-11, 04:05
RHClarke's Avatar
RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default One stop hup shop

Phil,

Thanks for posting the gif and jpeg HUP images on your website (http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.com). It truly is "the place to be" for HUP info.
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  #6  
Old 16-01-11, 23:49
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Update on progress

Hi All

Well as of Friday the body is basically stripped. All the fuel system including tanks and lines has been removed. The body is all ready to be lifted off down the road at my friendly heavy truck shop. When I checked before Christmas he had no work at all and the shop was empty, then we got 18" of snow now he is backed up with broken plow equipment. First heavy snow of the year finds everything that people had planned to fix last summer and forgot. So now I'm waiting for him to get caught up.

I've posted a whole bunch of photos of the process on my web site page is not on the index yet but here is the direct link http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...AUL%202011.htm it also includes a time lapse video of most of the work so far http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...d%20HQ%201.wmv

Cheers I'll post some photos directly to MLU have to downsizes them.

This week I start cleaning parts.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
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  #7  
Old 03-04-11, 00:14
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Whats wrong with this picture?

Take a look at the picture first, see if you can spot the problem? Got the problem? Well here is a hint note the assembly aid the white arrow and letter. also note the position of the hole for the lub fill.

Got the problem, one last hint the top edge of the picture is the top end of the transfer case and the mounting bolts.

Yup, the cover will actually bolt up the wrong way around and all the bolts lined up as did the locating pins.

It only took me three tries get all three gear assemblies back in and shimmed correctly.

Turned out that the only real work that need to be done on the transfer case was replacement of the seals. There was no dirt or any sign of wear to any of the gears or bearings.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Transfer Case assembly.jpg (87.6 KB, 45 views)
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`45 HUP
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  #8  
Old 03-04-11, 02:11
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Only three times....

I took my 2 speed T-case apart seven times plus a spare one I took apart to compare and to make sure I had all the parts in the rigth place. I had s lot of wear on the yokes and to indure the new seals would be working well had to install 3 speedy sleeves..... some of the yokes had grooves worn on the surface.

I mounted each yoke in a 3 jaw chuck on a wood lathe and removed the raised grooves using a flat file while rotating at slow speed....polished with emery paper and installed the speedy sleeves with Lock tite.....so far so good.

What kind of lub do you intend to use....?

Bob
PS you should show everyone what kind of modified engine stand you are using ....
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  #9  
Old 03-04-11, 03:01
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default 11 Hours to disassemble and reassemble

Hi Bob

There was no known problem so it was a clean and inspect. The lub leaks from the seals was almost non existent. Only place that really leaked was down the spline shafts into the space between the drive shafts yoke and the transfer case yokes at the bolt flange. Think a light smear of gasket cement on reassembly should take care of that. All of the yoke shaft areas are in very good condition with non of the wear I found on the Pattern 12 which I did end up using speed sleeves on. But for this one I think just new seals will do the trick. As to lub probably 90/140 gear lub.

The biggest problem on the Pat 12 transfer case was oil leaking between the layers of the shims. I plan to repaint the outside of the assembled case with Por-15 while its completely clean, taking particular care to paint all the seems probably a couple of coats.

From the time lapse of disassembling it took me 11 hours to take it all apart and put it back together. The Pat 12 C60L need some bearings replaced so it took a lot longer to get the shim sets right. What really kept causing problems on that one was the thickness of the paper gaskets. This time measured the gaskets and made the new ones out of the same thickness paper. Could not get large sheets of actual gasket material so instead I've been using a very high grade printing stock that I got from a print shop in different weights which gives me the different thicknesses.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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  #10  
Old 03-04-11, 03:21
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Uses for engine stand

Quote:
"
Bob
PS you should show everyone what kind of modified engine stand you are using ...."
I think I've shared this before but can find which thread. But what Bob is referring to is over at http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.com/Tools.html which shows that special tool from the CMP manual Repair Stand J-1716 which a very serviceable adaptation can be made from most engine work stands.

I'm working on a new variation of this which I share soon. The reason that I take the time to figure out rigging and making lifting tools is that I just can't grab on an entire front end knuckle assembly compete with brake drum lift into place hold it one handed while I put in the bolts anymore.

Cheers Phil
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0101.jpg (25.4 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg 5Differentialsetup.jpg (61.1 KB, 39 views)
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com

Last edited by Hanno Spoelstra; 03-04-11 at 07:42. Reason: formatting
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  #11  
Old 04-04-11, 07:03
oztankboy oztankboy is offline
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Default

Hi Phil in the land of US of A!

Oh yes its a great little truck to have and am realy got into decking it all out and finishing off all the small details. Like so many of these vehicles and more so with specialised ones its an on going exercise.

But it all pays off when it comes time to take it to a show and it becomes a display in its self.

Keep up the good work!
Phil...
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Milt Land Rovers
Inc:- 58 "gun buggy", 60 FFW, 70 FFW, 71 10 seater Wgn, 69 GS.
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  #12  
Old 17-04-11, 18:24
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Detergent or Non-Detergent that is the question

Detergent or Non-Detergent Oil that is the question? Well from looks of this engine it is hard to say, this engine has been running straight 30 weight non-detergent oil for 66 years, without the sludge buildup that all the oil commercials say should be there. As mentioned before as far as I know this engine has never been fully apart in all that time. Of course given the amount of oil leakage that has developed over the last few years maybe all the sludge has been leaking out.

But I don’t think so I suspect that the true answer is that if you change to oil regularly and drain the oil when it is actually hot that there is very little left behind. The only place with anything you might call sludge or deposits was on the inside of the front valve train cover, which has some light crusting which may be the result of this likely being the coolest area of the engine.

The large military style filter probably is also responsible for keeping the oil clean. On Beauty my Pat 13 C60S which had the oil filter mounted hidden in the frame rail the filter had sludge but the engine was clear of sludge. On that engine I suspect that the oil got changed but the filter didn’t.

Before disassembling the engine I did some testing of how long it took for the engine to actually reach a uniform temperature, where water temp, bottom of the oil pan, oil filter and the oil pan above the level of the oil all reach the same temperature, as you can see at no load it takes a long time to get the engine fully up to temperature.

Cheers Phil
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Oil Temp to time.jpg (102.8 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Web 4-16 Beast Rebuild Camera 019.jpg (40.1 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Web 4-16 Beast Rebuild Camera 009.jpg (68.2 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Web 4-16 Beast Rebuild Camera 013.jpg (57.8 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Web 4-16 Beast Rebuild Camera 011.jpg (70.3 KB, 30 views)
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http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
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  #13  
Old 17-04-11, 18:36
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Detergent or Non-Detergent that is the question 2

In the Oil Pressure to Time chart you will note that only part way through did I discover that the oil pan had two very distinct temperatures Lower Pan which was the very bottom while what is labeled OilTemp pan was actually the side of the pan above the level of the oil. Also not how much of a temp difference there is in the radiator from top inlet to lower outlet basically a 100 degree difference. (see chart above)

Here are the photos of the valve gear train and cover.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Web 4-16 Beast Rebuild Camera 020.jpg (115.7 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg Web 4-16 Beast Rebuild Camera 021.jpg (107.8 KB, 21 views)
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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  #14  
Old 20-04-11, 22:26
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Cracked Head

Well I should have torn the engine down as soon as I took it out of the HUP, because I have a major problem a cracked head, (truck’s not mine) today I disassembled the head and discovered that the seat of the #3 cylinder is cracked. Number 3 cylinder is also the lowest compression at 95 lbs highest was 112 lbs so this one falls at 15% of the highest which would be questionable. So now I need to go looking for a new or already rebuilt head. I could use the 216 I took out of the C60S when I up engine to the 261 but I’d really rather keep the HUP as Original as possible which means overhauling the original engine and replacing the head.

Note the deposits on the intake valve this was found on all intake valves so the valve stems and valve guides have really been allowing oil to be suck in, what is a bit strange is how little smoke the engine was making.

Pictures below show the valves and the valve ports for cylinder # 3.
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`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
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http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
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  #15  
Old 21-04-11, 03:58
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default How many do you want......??

Hi Phil

After 65+ years your head would be cracked as well.....

I know I have some...... can't guarantee the condition but will inspect closely with my glass eye.....

Do you have a particular "cast" head number you are looking for.....??

I can take it across the border for shipping to keep cost down.... or meet you half way.

My experience with sludge in engines was far more spectacular. Sludge to me is a light greyish ash like residue that you could scrape off with a putty knife..... maybe the cold weather here made it worst..... but no amount of detergent oil could ever remove it.

On a late 56-57 390 Ford engine..... we tried to cleanup the sludge inside the valve covers and removed the pan to scrap out deposits..... we literally flushed the engine.... in the frame... with gasoline to remove all the sludge
... installed new gaskets on the pan and valve cover.... engine never ran properly again.... was ticking and slapping like crazy and smoked like crazy..... I think the sludge actually was keeping the engine from leaking so much......

Your engine in comparison is very clean for 65 years of straight weight oil.

Let me know if we can help you.

Bob
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  #16  
Old 21-04-11, 13:30
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Search is on for a new head

Hi Bob

Yes, I know for sure that my head is cracked but that's a different story.

But back to the truck, Thanks for the offer on the head I'll get back to you. Because I did some searching last night may have found a NOS head according to the old Maple Leaf master parts book which covers 1938-1951 the one I've found should interchange OK. I had forgotten to bring the head casting numbers to confirm things though. This morning I'll get my casting numbers and engine numbers and give them a call.

I was surprised by how clean the inside of the engine was, wonder if part of that is the positive crankcase ventilation and the oil bath breather for the crank case.

The gunk on the tops of the intake valves and the gunk in the intake ports does say that oil leakage around the valve stems was a problem for a long time.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
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  #17  
Old 21-04-11, 15:28
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Default Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
Hi Bob

Yes, I know for sure that my head is cracked but that's a different story.

But back to the truck, Thanks for the offer on the head I'll get back to you. Because I did some searching last night may have found a NOS head according to the old Maple Leaf master parts book which covers 1938-1951 the one I've found should interchange OK. I had forgotten to bring the head casting numbers to confirm things though. This morning I'll get my casting numbers and engine numbers and give them a call.

I was surprised by how clean the inside of the engine was, wonder if part of that is the positive crankcase ventilation and the oil bath breather for the crank case.

The gunk on the tops of the intake valves and the gunk in the intake ports does say that oil leakage around the valve stems was a problem for a long time.

Cheers Phil
Phil..
I would be tempted to fire that head in the forge and weld up those cracks and re machine the seat..(At least get the machine shop to do it)
That crack does not go through to the water jacket and for the miles that you would put on the truck would last forever,..
With 95 PSI compression,you are close to good to go..
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  #18  
Old 21-04-11, 21:32
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ahleeds ahleeds is offline
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Default agree with Alex

I would have to agree with Alex on heating that head up very hot then welding with your nickel/cast welding rod . then a very long cooling period.

I was also going to mention my experience of looking for low detergent 30wt engine oil last summer. Basicly it was impossible to find except what was labled commpressor oil or pressure washer oil. If it is labled HD30 wt then it was high detergent 30 wt . not heavy duty 30wt.

my 10 cents

Anthony
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  #19  
Old 10-12-11, 23:19
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default The Engine Runs

Progress up date-the Engine Runs for the 1st time after rebuild http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...9th%202011.wmv . Not bad sounding if I do say so myself, no exhaust pipe, timing not dialed in yet, pulling 17-18 inches, oil pressure at start 42 PSI. No clanking little valve noise but clearances were set with the engine at room temperature just as a starting point. Prelubed the oil system with drill and heated the block with a block heater to 110 before starting.

Only issue noted was a drop in oil pressure at idle once engine had equalized at 180F. This I suspect is because of missing restriction orifice in the filter system. See more photos ( http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...20December.htm )

Problem is with the T fitting coming out of the block for the filter and oil pressure gauge, original has a restriction orifice in the line to the filter. Has anybody else found one of these. I replace the fitting for two reasons one I could not get it back in position because of the through block oil line. The other was that this same fitting on my Pattern 12 failed early in testing that engine and it emptied the crankcase very quickly.

I plan to run the engine some more to see if it drops below the 15 PSI I saw once the engine was up to temperature at idle. Plan then to put an restriction orifice, with the same size hole as the original,in the supply line to the filter and see if that changes the pressure drop once the engine oil is up to temperature.

More to follow

Cheers Phil
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2011 Dec 10 HuUP 007.jpg (40.3 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 2011 Dec 10 HuUP 008.jpg (43.5 KB, 13 views)
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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  #20  
Old 14-12-11, 01:06
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Four Hours of Engine Test

Hi All

Ran the engine for the HUP on the test stand for 4 hours yesterday. Engine started easily and ran very smooth accept at very low RPMs when there was a decided flick to the vacuum gauge and rough note to the engine exhaust note. Possibly a valve that is not quite sealing possible cause in proper valve adjustment. Will need to check the valve tappet settings after next engine test, once the engine is up to fully equalize temperature.

Concerning my last posting about the restriction in line to the oil filter. Took a bunch of fittings and made up a valved bypass to see if the restriction makes any difference in the oil pressure. Simple answer no difference cold oil 40F or 140F open close the valve so oil is going through the restriction or not.

Once engine is at full temperature 160-180F the oil pressure at 400-500 RPM is steady between 7-10 PSI which is a little lower than I expected for a freshly machined engine with all the bearing clearances by the book. But before I get to worried about try a different oil pressure gauge, first the one out the HUP (0-80 PSI range) vs (5-100 PSI) of the gauge on the test stand.



With the engine running on the test stand and the exhaust pipe hard piped out side the engine can be run with the shop closed up. A 216 running from 400 to 1200 RPM and the fan cooling the radiator heats the shop very nicely, the furnace never came on.

Cheer Phil
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2011 Dec 13 HUP.jpg (82.0 KB, 35 views)
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  #21  
Old 25-12-11, 23:30
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Decemeber 25th Update on Nose Removal

Hi All

Well it has been a little over a year since I started on this project and on this fine Christmas Day sitting by the fire I was reading MLU and checking my e-mail when among other seasonal greetings I had an note from Pieter in the Netherlands about removing the nose on a HUP.

So I have updated my first HUP overhaul page (the page http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...AUL%202011.htm headed) to pay more attention to that step, with pictures on bolt locations and a video of the nose removal on a Pattern 13 video http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ose%20Pull.wmv time lapse http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ll%20HIRes.wmv.

More important is the step by step of the process

Steps in removing the nose from Pattern 13 Cab these are sort of a composite of doing this several times. Before you start make sure that your lifting hoist will be able to lift the nose straight up until the bottom clears the top of the radiator.
1. Disconnect and remove the marker lights
2. Disconnect the Headlight wiring harness both sides of the engine compartment under hood.
3. Disconnect or remove the horn wire to the steering column
4. Disconnect and slide coolant recovery rubber hose from radiator connection
5. Remove Throttle linkage that comes through the floor from the peddle
6. Remove the forward floor panel under brake and clutch peddles.
7. Remove the short front fender sections and the inner splash shields on side of radiator.
8. Remove front brush guard or remove entire bumper by unbolting the two tow ring assemble remember to support this assembly when removing the bolts.(see time-lapse) for hoist pickup
9. Remove the center nose bolt and spring under center of grill.
10. Rig nose for lifting I use ratchet cargo straps hook two through your lift hook down to the nose side vent doors, cushion straps and hooks with rags if you are concerned about scratches. Then run a third cargo strap down to the front so that you can get a good balance front and back. Take a slight load on your lift hook.
11. At this point you must decide what your are going to do about brake and clutch peddles. Choices remove completely, disconnect the linkages and let them swing forward and down clear of the nose.
12. Remove the nose bolts on the sides and across under the windscreen.
13. Take a little more strain on your lift hook. The nose has a rubber strip between the nose and the body which with age and paint may be holding the nose from moving, carefully pry the edge apart.
14. Nose assembly is meant to come forward about 2 inches then go straight up until it clears the top of the radiator. (Be very careful of the radiator)
15. If you get the nose to this point and it will move a little but doesn't want to come free you probably missed one or more bolts. If it moves up several inches then stops you've probably missed a wire or hose.
16. Other things that hang up shroud between the grill and radiator, some come out with removing, some are welded in place. The radiator cross bar can hang up.

What did I leave out?
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  #22  
Old 26-12-11, 04:49
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Duh......

What size hammer do you use when you run out of patience....?

Readers have to appreciate that most if not all the bull work done by Phil is solo.....one man show...... all by his lonesome...... with out breaking anything or hurting himself......

Kudo !!!!!

Bob C.
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  #23  
Old 26-12-11, 15:13
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default I'm not as luck as the Hammond Barn Crew

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
What size hammer do you use when you run out of patience....?

Readers have to appreciate that most if not all the bull work done by Phil is solo.....one man show...... all by his lonesome...... with out breaking anything or hurting himself......

Kudo !!!!!

Bob C.
Happy Boxing Day Bob

I keep all the hammers locked in a drawer with the key in the house so when I get to the point of want to hit something I have to walk to the house to get the key. But more seriously when I get to that point of looking for a bigger hammer I try to remember to quit for the day and come back and look at in the morning, found this cuts down on broken parts and trips to the emergency room.

About working alone, not by choice, I'm just not as lucky, as you, there just are not the same number of CMP nuts lurking in the woods of New Hampshire. The Hammond Barn Crew is also very lucky to have someone to host such a group.

I would like to add that MLU and all it's members is one of the things that has really kept the fun in working on what is a rather obscure military vehicle here in the states. I general start my day by looking to see what you guys all over the world have been up to while I slept and then at the end of the day catch up on whats been going on during the day.

Cheers and more power to you all Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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  #24  
Old 24-02-12, 02:40
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default Ooooh Phillllllllllllllll

Better get your shovel ready...... more of the wonderful white stuff is coming your way......

We should get about 8 inches of the sticky wet stuff tomorrow.

We have set up fans at the barn and will try blowing it East as I hear Vermont and New Hampshire needs it for the ski slopes.

Need to spend an hour outside tonite to prepare for the snow storm.

Around here we lay down newspaper all over the long driveway...... so in the morning we just roll up the newspaper and put it all in the garbage.

The City of Montreal have a similar way for keeping the downtown area snow free...... they park all the City trucks side by each in the busy streets.... soon as the storm is over they just drive them away.

Hope you have food stock piled..... or beer anyways.

Bob
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  #25  
Old 25-02-12, 14:29
jason meade's Avatar
jason meade jason meade is offline
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Location: New Brunswick Canada
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Default snud, mixture of snow and ice

Dont think you have much to worry about with the snow,It hit here late last night with the furrey of a field mouse....just enough to cover the car, bright blue skys now.
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  #26  
Old 10-03-12, 21:37
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
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Default With 216 it's not Oil Pressure it's Oil Flow

Hi David

You are right about oil pressure on the splash lubrication 216 engines. The book basically says if the pressure gauge shows any pressure it is OK. But that is only the beginning of the story the oil flow inside the engine is amazing. I wanted to understand this better and when I was building up the 216 engine for my Patter 12 I did all the steps called for in the manual and then started documenting what was going on. Take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/P...Page%20Two.htm which includes a video of the water test for nozzle alignment.

While testing a 216 one time the tee fitting on the side of the block broke off and in a matter of seconds it had pumped most of the oil out of the engine. Fortunately I was standing at the control panel when it happened and hit the kill switch. After that I did a test by pumping the crankcase pan out using the regular oil pump driven at low speed by a drill 5 quarts of hot oil in between 7-10 seconds.

I'll have to add the video of the 216 running with the valve cover off and the transparent side panel that I use to check the push rod function and lubrication.

The inside of the 216 is literally an oil fog when running above idle as the troughs are emptied by the scoops coming through the actual lubrication is of the lower rod ends is by the stream of oil hitting the scoop, which is why correct aiming of the nozzles is so important. Watched this by putting a clear port over the fuel pump mounting hole in the block.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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  #27  
Old 21-03-12, 23:37
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
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Default Visible Progress Resumes

Hi All

Well after several months of work on the HUP which never seemed to show any progress to completing the over haul Visible Progress Resumes. My real problem was I go to a point were almost everything was being held up my needing to paint major parts.

Though we still had snow left from plowing at the beginning of the week the snow is now gone and we are having high 70s low 80s F weather. First step was pulling the HUP chassis out of the other garage where it has been sitting all winter. I move it to the garage bay that normally houses my car to keep it clean as I continued to work on stuff in the shop. As you can see from the photos of the divots left in the door yard the ground is still soft. Though this was going to be a major undertaking but in the end once I go HUP turned I was able to tow it and push it in to the main shop, even got it centered in the bay on the first try.

Off with the wheels and a little cleaning and it was ready for the flat coat of OD which I sprayed on today, tomorrow I hope to put the wheels back on and get ready to lower the body back on. Then the really serious reassembly can begin again.
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
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  #28  
Old 22-03-12, 03:23
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,191
Default Amazing.....

....one man show.

Been getting the same warm weather up here.... what a pleasant break.
Actually did a small bit of sand blasting last weekend. Finding that some of my cab 11 sheet metal had been trimmed and modified with a hot torch. In the process of establishing how much had been removed by inspecting similar parts on the other cab 12 Grant and I concluded that we had better spare parts from a cab 12 that needed less repairs........ did I not say in the past that you cannot restore a truck without two or 3 spares for parts......

Noticed some interesting differences in the inner fenders and floor plates of certain cab11 / 12 will follow up with pictures on the Hammond barn site.

Cheers

Bob
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  #29  
Old 23-03-12, 01:01
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 3,927
Default Body On

Hi All

Oh how good it is to see visible progress again, body went back on and is now all bolted down to the chassis. Put a layer of plastic sheet in between the chassis and the body so that I don't have to keep masking the chassis as I prime and paint the body. Once everything is in place I'll just cut the plastic out.

Now to the lesson of the day. KEEP ALL YOUR PARTS ORGANIZED when I disassembled the HUP I was fanatical about boxing, listing all the parts on the boxes, and putting the boxes away on the shelves in the loft of the shop. But during the process of cleaning and painting individual parts not everything got put back on the shelf. Big mistake, spent an hour searching for the wood frame spacers found them in the end but it would have been easier if I had put them back in the box they were listed on.

Another restoration tip, as I work bolting parts on I keep my camera ready to take photos of anything I've missed or areas that need to be repainted. These are going a photo file of things to follow-up on quicker than making shop notes of every spot that needs to be repainted.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
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  #30  
Old 23-03-12, 01:43
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Temple, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 3,927
Default Next time I'm going to!

The next vehicle I restore, I'm going to resist the temptation of the rapid dis-assembly. (They all come apart quickly.)

Instead I'm going to clean each individual part as it comes off.

Once cleaned I will determine what work is needed and lead time on getting parts.

Then before boxing it I'll create an inventory on the computer of what box on which shelf it is located. Along with adding any parts need to the computer list of what parts need to be found.

Then as major component engine, drive train, body etc are disassembled and cleaned I will prioritize the parts and overhaul schedule.

Well you get the idea.

I can dream can't I.

Cheers Phil
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`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/
New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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