How to remove a cab 13?

[DaveBuckle]

Hello all - have recently procured an excellent cab for my new C15A project. However: it is 5 hrs from me in central west NSW and is still attached to its C30 chassis.
I was considering a cut behind the fuel tanks to take just front half on a car trailer but am still looking at 2 tonnes and what I calculate is 2.2m width from outside of front wheel studs (no tyres so will sit low on trailer).
There is a crane on the farm so I may attempt to just get the cab on to the trailer and carry doors, windscreens, side steps etc. in back of ute.
Main thing is: how do I deal with the steering wheel/column when lifting a cab off?
Any ideas, previous experiences would be much appreciated.

[Mike Cecil]

From memory ...

(1) remove steering wheel and disconnect steering column bracket (below dash), loosen steering box bolts.
(2) remove pedal tops (not arms).
(3) remove pedal surround from floor
(4) remove engine covers
(5) remove both sections of the mud guards (or they get bent when sitting on your trailer, and it reduces the width)
(6) detach wiring, acc. link, & fuel lines (from centre fuel cock).
(7) Remove frame bolts from cab mounts.
(8) Lift off cab. (or Roll cab backwards onto a pallet sitting on the frame - I didn't have a crane for my first F15 cab removal, but it might be a bit more difficult with a C30 due to the extra levers, etc)

Those with more recent experience ... what have I missed? (Sound's so easy, doesn't it??)

Mike

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Dave,

Further to Mike's comments, see the thread How to reassemble a Ford F15. It may have some useful information - if you read it in reverse

HTH,
Hanno

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

Sorry I could not resist.



But it actually worked to move the cab and engine into the shop to remove the engine, a 261 that is now in my C60S. Chained the truck chassis to the towing eyes on the bumper of the HUP and drove it into the shop.

Yes, you can remove the cab complete with steering column, but be very sure to slide assembly up into the cab and secure it very well so that you have no risk of bending the shaft. The risk is bending or breaking at the instrument panel bracket. Obviously you also want to be very careful that the wheel or arm are not turned quickly so as to hit the end of travel. As I remember there are no stops so all the strain goes to the recycling balls in the steering box which can be damage easily.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Mike Cecil

From memory ...

(2) remove pedal tops (not arms).

Those with more recent experience ... what have I missed?

Were Australian Chevs different than Canadian? All Canadian Chevrolet CMP that I've met had the pedal tops in a unit with the arms. (But some of the very early units had rubber pedal pads as well.)

[DaveBuckle]

Thanks for those responses - here is pix of the offender ...
1) is the front axle and or wheels original?
2) So can the cab be safely transported on its back - say on a piece of carpet, or am I likely to damage it under its own weight etc.?

[Grant Bowker]

Please take my answers as Canadian, not 100% applicable to the Australian situation.
If you have access to the whole truck, not just the cab, don't let the remaining parts go to waste after you take the cab.
The fuel tanks look worth saving. Even if they are useless for fuel and beyond repair, the filler neck and other parts should be saved to permit recreation of new tanks.
In Canada, I would say the wheels were non-original but I believe in Australian service tippers used a similar looking wheel when fitted with dual rear wheels. The transfer case shows a PTO which is consistent with the tipper idea or might be for a winch, what can you learn from the rear of the frame.
From what I can see, the front axle appears typically CMP.
The bumper could probably be straightened in a press, the brush guard could be used as-is or straightened, the tow ring on the bumper often gets left off when people remove and reinstall the bumper.
In short, the list of potentially useful parts never ends so if you don't need or want the whole truck or don't have the means to move it, please let others know how to get hold of parts they might need. If you have the truck sitting, you will be amazed how useful it is as a reference or parts source. Once it has gone to the crusher, it is truly gone - forever.

[DaveBuckle]

Thanks Grant - I have the front bars sorted and will be taking tanks and steps.
The rear of chassis has been heavily butchered over the years, so my conscience is clear there.
The motor is seized but I will take radiator and most engine bolt-ons.
If any forum members want any driveline, suspension etc. components let me know - its all paid for - I just want cab, tanks, steps.
While we are talking Canada etc. - what's anyone's take on the two plates in pix? - Holden one on engine cover, Canada above dash.
Thanks again for all input, much appreciated.

[Grant Bowker]

The simplest explanation I can think of for the conflicting plates of is that parts have been exchanged between trucks. I don't have the full list of the differences between Australian and Canadian manufactured cabs but based on the ventilators, suspect that at least part of your cab is Australian.

When I mentioned the rear of the frame, it was because there might be holes or paint shadows suggesting either mounts for the tipper body or a winch to give an idea what the truck might originally have been.

I don't know enough about the number on the "model" line of the Canadian plate to use that as a starting point for further speculation/fact.
That style Canadian plate is more typically found on early production than late. I have certainly seen them on cab 13 trucks but in one case wonder if all previous owners have been honest due to the location of the plate.

[DaveBuckle]

Thanks again Grant.
You are enlightening me already - I am not as familiar with the Chevs as am the Fords.
Tell me about the footwell vents: what the different shapes indicate?
And the compliance plate: how you tell what year?
You also referred to them being in wrong/different location sometimes - what am I looking for there and where do I find any other numbers stamped on vehicle?
I will take more photos when I head back in a week's time.
Thanks so much.

[Keith Webb]

Holden built the entire cab unit here in Australia which is why the cowl vent is a rectangle - the dies used for it are the same as on other Holden vehicles of the era, as are the little catches on the windscreens - you'll see those on quarter vent windows on other vehicles - even the FJ Holden. So there are many detail differences - here are a few: The floor is flat rather than a patterned plate, the windscreen frames are slightly curved in profile, the door stamping has no circular centre piece. The hatch although similar is different as well.
Canadian Chev cabs have the same cowl vent shape as the Ford and the doors are also the same.

[Grant Bowker]

Thank you Keith, I was hoping someone with first hand knowledge would take up the thread rather than me continuing with "It is my understanding that.... but it needs to be confirmed.".