#1
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Hydraulic reservoir
What would be the appropriate way to line the inside of a hydraulic reservoir tank? Would de-rusting and a POR type finish work or is it best left untreated steel?
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#2
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Assuming this is for hydraulic oil and not brake fluid. I would not use any coating in the tank for fear of particles getting into the hydraulic system.
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#3
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It's a hydraulic clutch but the same as a brake fluid system. I assume the inside of a reservoir is uncoated steel (plastic in the modern era) which would require the vehicle to slosh it around the unfilled part at the top regularly preventing rust. Then we have our old beasts that don't run as often as they should which is why I wonder about a coating which the brake fluid won't dissolve.
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#4
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Hi
The problem with brake fluid is that it can absorb moisture. I have no idea what type coating would be resistant to brake fluid.
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#5
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You would think that POR's caliper paint https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Caliper-Paint should be at least somewhat brake fluid resistant but the web page is clearer on its temperature resistance than how it will perform when continuously in contact with brake fluid. I suggest it would be fair to ask the manufacturer how well their product would perform in these conditions.
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#6
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What about the use of a silicone fluid? Would this help you bypass the obstacle?
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#7
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I can't recall my original decision to use non-silicone fluid (something about a promise to re-bleed annually to avoid moisture buildup I expect) and to be fair the DOT3 and DOT4 fluid has done me well for at least 10 years now. But for the current maintenance it's the rust in the reservoir that's filtering down to the clutch and accelerator master cylinders that's giving me pause.
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#8
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Ok then. Somehow you need to stop the moisture getting through the cap vent. Can you modify it into a closed system? Some vehicles have a master cylinder with a larger lid that has a flexible diaphragm contained within. This moves with the fluid level, but is completely sealed.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#9
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What is the volume/shape of the tank?
Keeping it totally filled, and maybe a non vented cap for storage....
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Charles Fitton Maryhill On., Canada too many carriers too many rovers not enough time. (and now a BSA...) (and now a Triumph TRW...) |
#10
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I'd fit a new cap to the master brake cylinder with a fitting and tap into a plastic fluid reservoir fitted over the master brake cylinder. That way you can keep the steel master cylinder full reducing the risk of rusting the inside of the master cylinder as long as you replenish the brake fluid on a regular basis.
Makes sense?
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#11
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I bit the bullet and took apart the Fox hydraulics for a complete rebuild (it's a covid lockdown thing I suppose).
I was running Dot 4, re-bled about every 4 years. I see some fluid discolouration and feel a bit of rust 'grit' in the clutch master, oddly not coming down from the reservoir as I first thought. The inside of that is perfectly clean. I am rebuilding the cylinders with all new rubber so now is the time to carry on with Dot 4 or go to Dot 5. The quote below is from the web...I'd like to use my same lines, but what do I flush them with? Is Dot 5 the end of my worries that will outlast the vehicle? Dot 5.1? Quote:
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#12
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Bruce, as an apprentice we were taught to use methalated spirits to clean brake components. This would be when you have them stripped. You would then lube components with the brake fluid that you intend to use, on assembly. The following, I ripped from the net:
Quote:
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#13
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Having had a quick read on the net, I think I would stick with dot 3 or dot 4. Silicone fluid (dot 5) is not recommended by Porsche for instance. Silicone has other problems. I think better the devil you know unless you were replacing all the components. Keep your fleet the same. My gut feeling.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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I hate Dot-5 and dread working on the vehicles that the owner insists using it. The spongey pedals and soft brakes become my problem all of a sudden. We learned to say "no warranty on Dot-5 brake jobs" . Photos taken by CUCVRUS.
Cheers, Barry |
#16
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Brake fluids.
My comments to Lynn in post 12.
I grew up with the old brake fluid that was made from caster oil and metholated sprit, we used metho to wash up brake cylanders . then we got mew high temp fluids that had a higher boiling point but were water soluble, we used water to wash them up. I restored a truck many years ago and used silicone fluid I think it was Ok. Recently I bought a hydraulic stop light switch (13480) Marathon and in the packet it had a note NOT TO USE THE SWITCH WITH SILICON FLUID !!! I an currently restoring a Ford truck (11T ) and will not be using silicon fluid in it.
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John Mackie (Snr) VK2ZDM Ford GPW- script #3A Ford Trailer M3A1 White Scout Car -Under restoration- 1941 Ford Truck (Tex Morton) F15A Blitz Radio sets- #19, #122, #62, ART13, and Command |
#17
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Flushed brake lines.
I used methyl hydrate to flush mine. I've been using silicone fluid for 40 years with never a problem but for the last few projects i use a pressure bleed system and fill the systems from the wheel cylinders or slaves. the pedals are hard right away and if replacing a brake sensor(too often grr) a quick push from the closest wheel cylinder clears any bubbles out of the system.the trick is not to create and bubble up the fluid.
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