Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Oh wise Folks!

I am looking into acquiring a set of king pins for F60 front axle repair. This is not an immediate need, but no harm in starting to look around now.

The question is: Are the king pins interchangable with any other Ford truck etc..? I seem to see king pins for sale everywhere, but don't know which, if any, would be suitable. Maybe they are not something which even needs replacing. Again, I don't know this, not even looked yet.

[Private_collector]

Amongst the other jobs, I have been working through final stages of rebuilding the headlights and dress rims.

They now look ever so slightly better than 'as found'.

I recall when the bowls came back from sandblasting. They didn't weigh as much on the way home, as opposed to when they went away!

The rear of bowls are to be painted next weekend, while nose panel outside is painted. The inside of the bowls are painted in gloss 2 Pack green. Color is different but thats not important as they won't be seen. I just used a green I happened to have some time ago.

One of these dress rims had two dents in it. Hopefully you can't tell now. Was 60 mins of light 'tapping' with a jewellers hammer to get to present stage. I'm happy with the result.

[Private_collector]

No time was available for CMP work yesterday, so application of underbody sealer has minimised what could be done today.

There was a 4 hour delay while waiting for sealer to dry, and it's messy stuff to boot. Very difficult to apply in some of the tighter spots.

[Private_collector]

Insides of nose panel are now painted. I had just enough time to get insides and underneath painted before light failed.

[Keith Webb]

I can remember Hughes Auto Spares had these brand new in original boxes back in the 1970s.

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Amongst the other jobs, I have been working through final stages of rebuilding the headlights and dress rims.
Attachment 49051
They now look ever so slightly better than 'as found'.
Attachment 49052
I recall when the bowls came back from sandblasting. They didn't weigh as much on the way home, as opposed to when they went away!
Attachment 49053
The rear of bowls are to be painted next weekend, while nose panel outside is painted. The inside of the bowls are painted in gloss 2 Pack green. Color is different but thats not important as they won't be seen. I just used a green I happened to have some time ago.
Attachment 49054 Attachment 49055
One of these dress rims had two dents in it. Hopefully you can't tell now. Was 60 mins of light 'tapping' with a jewellers hammer to get to present stage. I'm happy with the result.

[Private_collector]

Keith,

I don't suppose they have any left, do they?

They may not even be alive now, come to think of it!

T.

[Keith Webb]

That business closed around 1978 when I was overseas, with a huge amount of slow moving 'useless' stock like that going into skips.

Jack O'Donnell who ran the place died sometime in the 80s I believe.



Jack O'Donnell

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Keith,

I don't suppose they have any left, do they?

They may not even be alive now, come to think of it!

T.

[Private_collector]

Narrow minded bastards!

When will people learn. NEVER throw anything away....vintage at least.

That's one good thing about the internet I suppose, you can find out quickly that something is worth more than you thought.

Hopefully I can get it with a 'buy it now' before seller realises that though

Almost makes you wanna dig up some old rubbish dump..........almost. Don't fancy all those used syringes, tin cans & crappy nappies! On the other hand, you may discover what happened to Donald Mackay!

[Keith Webb]

From memory there were exhaust systems, wiring looms, instruments, transfer case power take off conversion kits, windscreen glass, Chev distributors, rear shrouds for the radiator, splash panels for Fords, including the ultra-rare one that goes under the radiator, known as the lower radiator shroud (see section K3 of your MB-F1, top right pic).

[Private_collector]

Keith,

Rare you say, eh.

I have one of those somewhere I believe. Maybe I post a photo of it...............every time you show that bloody gear boot

Did you come up with anyone who will manufacture more of those boots?

Put me down for a couple, if you ever get any made!

[Keith Webb]

Yes, Max has gone back to the manufacturer of his ones and has placed an order.

As for the lower shroud... I was pulling your chain a little I admit as I have a couple rescued from Hughes Trading. I don't think I've ever come across a blitz 'in the wild' with one fitted.

[Private_collector]

Bought a new vacuum cleaner to use with my sand blasting cabinet.

The original one died the death of a thousand farts!
Anyone who has heard an electrical motor in process of burning out will know exactly what I mean

Today I was shown a set of two paintings which someone had painted during WW1, while their relative was in europe fighting the germans. They are VERY impressive and extremely detailed. More like murals really. I will attempt to photograph these and show them here, when I get a chance. Apparently it was a form of 'therapy' while awaiting safe return home of their loved one.

[Private_collector]

The nose panel is finally finished! With fairly stiff wind gusts and council working on the dirt road (wind blowing my way, hooray!!!), I continued with painting as scheduled.

Each coat required a light going over with a tack cloth, and gentle removal of selected pieces of crap. Winds decreased just prior to final coat, which was a great blessing because final coat was mostly reducer with a 'hint' of actual paint. That coat was basically to flatten the sheen further.

Cont'd...

[Private_collector]

I think I got all the little bits painted, that go onto the nose. Mine has a removable piece across top where the bonnet sits onto. Lucky I kept the brackets with the larger part.

It was only this morning that I realised the passenger side 'air vent' is missing it's inside handle. Must have been like that all the time I've had it, unless it fell off at sandblasters. I don't give a damn.....the driver side has it's one

[Private_collector]

Once the paint was almost touch dry, headlights went on, as did the upper mudguard bracket that sits under nose panel. I also did a very brief trial fitment of the bonnet late this afternoon. As usual, it fits in a way that touches a number of areas where it shouldn't! It also will require addition of a shim under each hinge attachment point. Here we go again!!!!

Now that I have a new vacuum, i'm back in the business of blasting my own smaller parts again. Started with the accelerator pedal and associated hardware. These are now painted (black) and drying for fitting on Sunday.

I have been stuffing around with ways of spraying the TAC sign onto the nose panel. A lot of unusual ways have been suggested. Hair spray has been rumoured to have sufficient 'stick' to hold the stencil in place. It doesn't work. I tried using a paper glue stick around the edges. This works but can bleed through the edges and spoil the edges.

Tomorrow I go into town and buy a pack of A4 size labels, which I will print a copy of the TAC sign onto. Then the white bit gets cut out and the remainder gets put on the nose for spraying straight through. No problem, simple, unless the label sticks No........it won't......will it?!?!? We will know by end of Sunday.

Tomorrow is a 'CMP free' day. Next SitRep Sunday. The vehicle serial numbers might be on then too.

[Private_collector]

As it turns out, today not quite so CMP free as I had originally thought

Once I got home from Brisbane this evening, I found myself an indoors project to do while watching Heartbeat. Decided to reassemble the accelerator parts on pedal plate.

Once the throttle linkages are in place, the accelerator pedal sits nearly in the vertical position when returned by the linkage spring. Is this normal? I have sought of figured that if it is, there must be another mechanical 'stop' somewhere from here to carburetor that holds this in a more reasonable position.

As you can see from the photos, I still need to find the other two plates that go over clutch & brake lever holes.

Would I be correct in believing that the absent cover part for clutch & portion of steering column is one combined piece?

If you have either of these bits for sale (or a correct accelerator stop rubber), I would love to hear from you. It will save me a lot of running around. At my age, that's important!

[Private_collector]

With help from friends, and a fair deal of speed reading, I now know exactly the unit sign that should be on my truck. If you recall, I want to restore this vehicle with the signs of 29/46 Infantry Btn, and the vehicle number will be my Father's service number.

Late last night (or possibly early this morning), I had finally discovered the unit sign should be:

29-46
----- (one solid line)
56

with a solid red background.

When I first discovered this, it occured to me that this seemed vaguely familiar for some reason. I started searching where I had seen this before, and came across the photo above which shows the men of 29/46 Btn on parade, being reviewed by the Duke of Gloucester! In the background is the precise sign I had been searching for. I didn't realise this was same as that on their vehicles. I thought it meant there were two groups present on parade, 29/46 & 56 Btns. Wrong!

As planned, A4 size labels were purchased this morning and I had the shop print a few copies of the Division sign onto label stock. Tomorrow I will spray a matt black patch, and attempt to copy this sign, as a stencil to the nose panel on R) side.

Hopefully all will go well!

[David DeWeese]

Hi Tony,

Are these what you are needing?

Thanks, David

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Once the throttle linkages are in place, the accelerator pedal sits nearly in the vertical position when returned by the linkage spring. Is this normal? I have sought of figured that if it is, there must be another mechanical 'stop' somewhere from here to carburetor that holds this in a more reasonable position.

Hi Tony,
I solved my problem with the pedal by fitting a rubber piece and washer on the connecting rod so that it bears on the out side of the foot plate. This acts as a stop and to a certain extent a seal. There are no other stops from there to the carburettor.
It may not be what was there originally but it is simple and works well.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers,
Terry

[Private_collector]

David, PM Sent.

Terry, thats a good idea! I will effect something similar.
Though it seems that this is normal............well.......it will drive me mad just looking at it, and usability will be even less difficult unless I have my right foot broken and recast in an ackward position!!!

I cut out the stencil template for division sign late last night. It is about time I finished my coffee and got to painting the black background for it to go onto! I peeled off a bit of sticker backing from a portion not required, and found something interesting / disturbing. When the label gets wet, it easily de-laminates, leaving the glue stuck to whatever surface it is applied to! This will occur regardless of substrate or tack UNLESS it is allowed to dry completely. At which time it becomes sound again. Glad I thought to test this prior to application. Well, I simply wouldn't have used unless it was tested anyway, but the requirement to get this done today will be to spray the black backgrouhd as early as possible (now) and leave to dry well before spraying white onto it.

We will see how this theory goes in a few hours, won't we!

[Private_collector]

Well, today was a nightmare of biblical proportions.

Firstly, if you are considering my lead and using photocopy labels as a stencil or template, DON'T. It's a really crap idea. Don't do it. You have been warned.
I'll start at the begining....

I realised yesterday that I hadn't any flat black for the background of the TAC sign, so I bought what I could find quickly. A 'generic' brand at that. Fortunately I had the brains to spray a test piece on a metal offcut to see paint performance. It looked great. Then I placed several strips of the label stock across the panel and sprayed the flat white over these. They also looked great and the label strips came off neatly. Hooray!!!!! BUT, and it's a doozey of a but, as I watched, the white paint took on a very crazed appearance. At that point....so did I. The black paint was not allowing the white to melt into it, and as it dried it took on the presentation of a fresco from Pompei. Only not that good.

Armed with this alarming discovery, the importance of correct spray technique became a scary thought. That being a larger number of light coats instead of the 3-4 medium to heavy ones I was planning. I'm not saying I was in any way worried, but I did find two bricks in my underpants later on!
Expecting more trouble from the label itself, I masked every bit I could manage before going near it with the white paint. I was quite confident that I had virtually eliminated any prospect of bleed through leaving visible damage on the black beneath or soaking through the label, causing glue to come off.

I was bloody well wrong on the second part. While last white coat was still tacking off I started to remove the masking and label..............or so I thought. Approximately half of the label glue remained on the fresh black paint, while the paper of the label was now on the floor.

Several outbursts of verbal abuse ensued. It took me a whole hour to gently prise the glue off the black areas. A fine pair of forceps came in very handy, as by now I had chewed my nails to bloodied stumps!

One brief shaft of light in this bucket of detritus was that I used some normal tack masking tape to lift off numerous very small sections of glue residue and it did NOT lift any of either colors. I fully expected it would come away in sheets, but it held fast! That means both colors are sound and should not give any further trouble in future. Not sure I am that lucky, but the final result is acceptable in light of the issues encountered.

As I said, DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME, try it at someone elses home.

More to come...

[Private_collector]

Moving on from the trilogy in four parts that was the TAC sign, I started getting nose panel ready to attach.

Side vents were treated to a strip of foam seal. Then I began re-installing the vents themselves, and made the re-discovery that hole size of the vent hinge and where it attaches to the nose are very much different. The little 'collars' that were in here had been thrown out as they were badly corroded.

Here's a little wrinke which you may find useful! I discovered that steel fuel line is EXACTLY the right size to fit into the vent portion, and was a firm fit to the size of bolts I was planning to use. Firm but not tight enough to stop free movement of the vent during use. Just be sure to cut the fuel line a 'bees dick' thicker than the gauge steel on vent. That way the vent won't stick once bolt is tightened.

I'm happy with the finished result. Low tack tape was used around the vent edge and nose panel opening, so I didn't damage paint while getting the fit correct.

I glued rubber stripping along the nose panel edges. There was no functional way I could use a single piece of rubber, so made the join at corners in a way that is intended to stop water from 'wicking' between the rubber pieces and into the cab. Little did I know that once bolted onto the cab front, there would still be gaps between cab and nose, even with the rubber. Very small gaps, but gaps none the less. I had even thought to ensure nose panel would be straight along that edge but it didn't make any difference. Guess the whole idea was a moot point really. I could use a silicone sealer, but it may get messy. I am not neat with that stuff!

The seals around the wheel arches worked considerably better.

More to come...

[Keith Webb]

Very much enjoying your description of the process, especially the fresco bit!

Incidentally do you have the upper bar for your front shell? It's supposed to be welded in but was often cut off to allow engine removal.

You do realise you will have to start another restoration once you've finished this one. Our lives will be empty without the daily updates.

[Private_collector]

Getting the nose panel onto the truck initially took three people. The boy and I holding an end each, and Mrs B putting in enough bolts to stop it from amputating my toes when we let go.

Once in place, I saw that the driver side foot well didn't fit right. The bit nearest the engine cover would NOT go in as far as the pedal plate required it to be. Despite some careful whacks with first a rubber mallet, then a ball pein hammer, and finally a large and loud outburst of swearing, it STILL WOULD NOT GO IN. By now I had caused some damage. Rubber burns from the mallet, and lots of paint removed by the hammer.

The swearing was getting out of hand (so my wife said. I thought it was just right amount), so I switched from english to Italian, Estonian & German. I don't actually speak any of these fluently (effluently ), but I know sufficient curse words in foreign language to get my head punched in, all around the globe!

Then I had an epiphany. I drilled a hole through the offending parts, and pulled them together with the tightening of the bolt. Propper job! What a shame this didn't occur to me prior to buggering the paint to extent that it will need to be sanded and repainted!

By this time of the afternoon, I had re-offended my shoulder to the extent that it would only communicate with me in sharp bursts of morse code, and crouching down to tighten the inner bolts was a fairly painful and unrewarding experience.

More to come...nearly done!

[Private_collector]

G'day Keith! Yeah I have that bit, but ran out of sunlight and motivation before I got it back on. I really wanted to put the grille on temporarily, even though the shroud isn't done yet. I need to put the Ford badge onto the grille first. I dropped it the other day, but it fell writing side up (the way that buttered toast DOESN'T) and wasn't damaged. Bonnet needs a set of shims made and it's ready to go on then also.

The final task today was sticking the vehicle numbers on nose and doors. I wasn't sure about the font when I first received these from U.S.A, but they kind of grew on me, so I thought I would go ahead with them. It was cheaper to buy these from USA, as opposed to buying local. That's just amazing. Putting 'em on was no problem as I had dabbled in computer-cut signage some years ago. Ah the memories! Wish I had kept the sign cutter.

The sun had gone down but I wanted to get the numbers on TODAY, so I hooked up an old floodlight for ambiance. Because of the steaming turd of a day I had suffered, and because the numbers are my Fathers' service numbers, I was determined to finish the day on a positive note. To be frank, I would have fired up the old kerosene lamp if I had to do so to get the job done. When I stood back and took a good look, I have to confess I got a bit choked-up, and was thinking Dad would have loved to see this vehicle finished. He's been gone 6 years now and I guess at this time he would love to see any vehicle I suppose.

I went from sadness to having a little chuckle, when I realised that Dads' service number when applied to the CMP, looks quite like the phone number you would ring to order a taxi.

I am expecting a TAC plate to arrive this week. Hope to get someone to cut me a chunk of metal for the unit & 'PASS' signs to go onto. I may take next weekend off as far as CMP work goes, to allow shoulder to settle down a bit. Mind you, I did say that last Saturday too.

And Lynn said I would never be able to keep the workshop clean!?!?

I swear I will NEVER restore another vehicle of this size and weight again...............so if anyone has an old Saturn V rocket that needs doing up, send me a message!!!!!!!

Ende

[Luke R]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

You do realise you will have to start another restoration once you've finished this one. Our lives will be empty without the daily updates.

Cab 11 or 12 maybe?
Your doing a fantastic job, keep it it up

[Private_collector]

Funny you should say Cab 12.

I 'found' one recently, while taking the boy for a driving lesson.

Not in really good shape..............but nothing new there.

Seriously, after I finish this truck I want to make a replica gun to tow behind it, maybe even an AA gun for the back. That would be nice. Would give the tailgaters the shits too, if aimed right Swines!

[Little Jo]

Hi Tony

Nice work interesting following your thread. Are you doing the vehicle up as a South Australian vehicle as the Platypus over the Boomerang denotes a SA based Unit.

Cheers

Tony

The 9th Australian Infantry Division, a white Platypus and Boomerang on a black ground. The Platypuswas taken from the 1937 9d (Nine Penny) Stamp. A brief history- Formed in 1940, was sent to the Middle East, allocated garrison duties while the 6th and 7th Divisions were sent to Greece, saw action in the battle for El Alamein alongside the British 8th. Army. More famously known as the Rat's of Tobruk, returned to Australia, then on to New Guinea after being reequipped, and fought against the Japanese in and around Finschafen, Lae, the Ramu and Markham Valleys and Madang alongside the 7th Division. Was later moved to Borneo and saw more action against the Japanese until the end of the War.

[Private_collector]

Tony,

The sign is a Division sign only. In this case it is 9th Division as you have said. It does not represent any particular unit.

9th Division had many battalions from all over Australia, certainly including S.A.

Your information on deployment is correct, but it is not specifically from any one state.

T.

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Tony,

The sign is a Division sign only. In this case it is 9th Division as you have said. It does not represent any particular unit.

9th Division had many battalions from all over Australia, certainly including S.A.

Your information on deployment is correct, but it is not specifically from any one state.

T.

Hi Tony

I stand corrected. I was given wrong drum. Your vehicle will represent a top fighting Division with a good record of awards.

The 9th Division was the most highly decorated of the four AIF divisions raised during the war. Seven of its members received the Victoria Cross, the nation's highest award for gallantry.

Military decorations awarded to members of the 9th Division include:

7 Victoria Crosses (VC)
41 Companion of the Distinguished Service Orders (DSO);
Order of the British Empire: 9 Officers of the Order (OBE) and 29 Members of the Order (MBE)
119 Military Crosses (MC)
57 Distinguished Conduct Medals (DCM)
212 Military Medals (MM)
9 British Empire Medals (BEM)
611 Mentioned in Dispatches

My 1942 Willys Jeep also proudly displays the Tac Signs for 9 Div. And was well received by veterans of the 2/10th in this years Anzac Day March.

Cheers

Tony