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Morris Motors movie
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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Morris
Very interesting, thanks for the link Mike.
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
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WOW, how labour intensive is that? Those engines are almost hand made.
To think that was going on all over the world, the pride the tradesmen must have had making sure their part was perfect. When I was watching the tapping of the bottom of the engine block, I was thinking what a responsibility it would be making sure all the taps were in good condition and cutting perfect threads, every time, on every block. The sad part is that all that work is now worth about $100.00 a ton as scrap. I know we can't keep everything, but those of us on the forum I am sure are doing our best to keep as much as we can. Cheers Ken
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1940 Cab 11 F15 1G-8129F 1941 Cab 12 C60L AIF L4710841 Middle East veteran 1941 Cab 12 F60L ARN 45818 1941 Cab 12 F60L ARN 46660 1941 Cab 12 F60L ARN 51720 A/T Portee 1942 Cab 13 F15 ARN 55236 1942 Cab 13 F60L ARN 58171 Mach "D" Loading 1942 Cab 13 C15 ARN 62400 1945 Cab 13 C60L ARN 77821 1941 Chevrolet 3 Ton GS ARN AIF L16070 Middle East veteran Canadian REL (APF) radar trailer |
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Morris engine
Thanks for the movie Mike. A great help as I am trying to remove all the head studs from my C8 engine. It looks like they all have to be cut and drilled out. Some go into the water jacket which make it easier but the movie says that some are blind and the taps have to be accurately set up to prevent breaking. A good heads up for me. Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks again, Terry.
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Terry F30 13 Cab CMP Morris Commercial C8 |
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Explain why cutting the studs?
Hi Terry
Could you tell us why cutting the studs is the only choice? There are some options used on flathead V8s that just might work. First is wood wedge method which I've used successfully too pop the heads on long stuck engine's. Key in this is cut the wedges to start with very fine angle from oak and use lots of them. Get them just started then very gentle taps round and round. Example this at the very end of the process after switch to bigger wedges. I should add that I had soaked the studs for a month in heat shop with ascitone and ATF. Trick two was used on hotrod flathead with aluminum heads were the corrsion would seize to the studs. It used a thin hole saw that just fit over the stud. Have not seen one these in 50 years. The problem of getting heads was even a problem when new that Ford change from studs to bolts very early in the production of the engine shown in the picture above. I have two of these engines built six months apart one has studs the later has bolts. Hope this might help. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
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Morris Head Studs
Thanks for the reply Phil and apologies to Mike for getting off the track in his post.That movie clip was an eye opener to manufacturing processes in those years.
The heads are off on the 4 engines I have. Some for many years. Some studs are broken and not one seems to want to screw out. There are 2 blocks that are candidates for rebuilding so I have to be very careful with those. I will start a new thread on the subject. Cheers, Terry
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Terry F30 13 Cab CMP Morris Commercial C8 |
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