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  #61  
Old 10-07-18, 09:57
Jonathan Moore's Avatar
Jonathan Moore Jonathan Moore is offline
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Nice pistons Mike, where did you get them from as I will be requiring some spares for my engine. Its going to need to be relined, new pistons but the bottom end, cam shaft etc are in incredibly good condition with very little wear, so in that respect I am lucky.

Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1
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1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB
1938 DKW SB200
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1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82
1942 Steyr 1500A
1944 Morris C8A
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  #62  
Old 10-07-18, 10:12
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Moore View Post
Nice pistons Mike, where did you get them from as I will be requiring some spares for my engine. Its going to need to be relined, new pistons but the bottom end, cam shaft etc are in incredibly good condition with very little wear, so in that respect I am lucky.

Jon
Hi Jon

I think you need the 4 cyl. EH pistons, these are a larger bore than my 6 cyl OH engine. Apparently the 4 cyl. pistons are more easily found , you should have little problem sourcing the 4 cyl. pistons
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
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  #63  
Old 10-07-18, 10:22
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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Mike,
If the rust on the 'new' rings will clean off with minimal pitting I would use them. individual pitts will make no difference but obviously any significant loss of metal is a no-no. A very fiddly job though as each will have to be done by hand a cm at a time.

David
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  #64  
Old 11-07-18, 10:38
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default rings

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Originally Posted by David Herbert View Post
Mike,
If the rust on the 'new' rings will clean off with minimal pitting I would use them. individual pitts will make no difference but obviously any significant loss of metal is a no-no. A very fiddly job though as each will have to be done by hand a cm at a time.

David
I am probably being fussy, the pitting is not that bad but the oil scraper rings do look somewhat dirty and distressed. There is a piston ring business down in Melbourne ( Phoenix rings ), might give them a try and find out how much a new set of cast iron rings will be .
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
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  #65  
Old 15-04-24, 01:51
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default Broken bolts

Getting back to the Morris engine .

One major problem is: the small M6 metric water jacket cover bolts have snapped off.

My repair plan is to make a drilling guide plate and drill out the broken bolts. I can tap the holes to the larger M8 . size. A Hudson car restorer had the same problem, he used a drill press but he suggested using a mag drill would be ok. The drilling needs to be highly accurate. I have 4 holes where the bolts came to use as a guide. The holes are 46mm centre to centre in the x axis. . Pics will explain.
Attached Thumbnails
20240412_123639-1.jpg   IMG_1215.jpg  
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad

Last edited by Mike Kelly; 15-04-24 at 03:16.
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  #66  
Old 16-04-24, 04:39
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default Big end bearings

The 1937 to 41 military CS8 truck engine had it's genesis in the family of pre-war Morris 25 engines, the Morris 'big six' sedan of 1937 to 39 utilized the 25hp 82mm bore engine, the basic block was used in both civilian and military vehicles with variations in the cylinder heads, pistons, manifolds , carby and water pump. They are similar to other pre-war engines: poured big end bearings as used in the CMP Chevrolet 216.

I found a 25 engine out of a civilian Morris truck, the crankshaft and bearings are good enough for my needs . I plan to make up a engine from the two engines I have stripped down. I have new valves , pistons and valve guides (made by me). Just need to find a good engine machinist ..

These engines have a few peculiarities i.e. there isn't a rear main crank seal in the normal sense, they used a large flange with a threaded o.d. that throws the oil back . The dynamotor is chain driven by the duplex timing chain. The crankshaft has no counterweights.The military carburetor is a special updraft Solex-dustproof. Fuel is gravity fed to the carb from the Autovac vacuum unit that is mounted on the dash panel.

Another oddity is: the Leyrub joints, these are rubber 'universal joints' on each end of the prop shaft.. These joints are still available new. .
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad

Last edited by Mike Kelly; 16-04-24 at 12:06.
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  #67  
Old 19-06-24, 11:30
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Default Film

Been held up with the big problem . How to repair the broken M6 bolts , there are 28 of them broken off in the side of the engine block. The jacket side cover has 32 of the M6 bolts and 28 of them have broken. This is a common problem with this type of vintage engine.

Looking into the options I have decided to drill out the bolts and use M6 heli-coils. This process requires very accurate drilling...more about that later on.

Good fortune: I found a 1930s era film made by Morris Motors (Morris had their own in house film unit). By a stroke of good luck the film depicts a Morris 6 cyl. engine , drilling and assembly. Basically it is the same engine that I am currently working on ! The film reveals how they drilled out the 32 holes in one process, and to such a high degree of accuracy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieF3d_YBUh4

Another issue I have is: a replacement head gasket. As of now, there aren't any replacement new head gaskets available, only a very few old stock gaskets exist and these cost a small fortune and are of dubious condition. I believe a few Morris 25 car owners have had gaskets hand made. I have made enquiries to overseas gasket makers, the prices are very high, maybe a run of 50 would be viable.
Attached Thumbnails
Morris-block.jpg   Morris-block2.jpg   Morris-block3.jpg   Morris-block5.jpg  
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad

Last edited by Mike Kelly; 19-06-24 at 17:25.
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  #68  
Old 22-06-24, 21:56
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Quite the project....

For the head gasket may I suggest you contact antique engine clubs..... there are suppliers they get gasket material from which they cut they own head gasket....... comes in sheets of compacted asbestos or ceramic cloth held together by a high temperature bonding agent..... various thickness and can be backed up with soft pure copper sheet. Seems it works well on single and double cylinder engines... rather hard to cut but made one for a Fairbanks 5hp magneto hand started engine and it worked. For a 6 cyl head I would consider two soft copper sheets with ceramic cloth in between so you have something to compress with the head bolts. Collectors/rebuilders of old steam engines maybe another source.
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  #69  
Old 23-06-24, 04:54
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default Gasket

Hi Bob

Yes I have looked into buying copper sheet and the composite material and then making up the gasket myself. Maybe I could get the sheets CNC cut , I would need to provide a computer file in the commonly used CNC format, something like G code ?

Yes the stationary engine guys and clubs would be a good place to ask.

There are a few people who can hand make vintage car gaskets for the car restorers but these guys are very expensive $$$$. There is a on-line business in Thailand that manufactures head gaskets for vintage car owners, I got a quote some years back... upwards of $300 plus $100 shipping for just one 6 Cyl. head gasket. https://gasketstogo.com/

Auto surplus, a business here have NOS Morris head 6 cyl. gaskets for the 1933 to 36 models, but Morris changed the gasket shape in 1937 and I need the 1937 onwards gasket.

Back to the broken bolts, I have drilled out one of the broken M6 bolts and it worked out OK. I have not used heli-coils before, so this has been a learning experience ! In order to achieve a nice and accurate hole, I bought a cheap mag drill. The drill has a electro magnetic in the base , so that you can, with a switch, turn on-off the magnet, the drill has to sit on a flat even steel/iron base, it can be used horizontally too. I made a little aligning tool out of angle plate, the holes in the plate are the correct distance from the block deck. The clear plastic rod has cross hairs like a rifle sight . How it works: you look down the rod and line up the cross-hairs in the centre of the broken bolt. You then align the drill in the mag drill in the angle plate hole and drill out the broken bolt. The Heli-coil set comes with a special sized drill and tap and the little stainless steel coils. BTW there are many cheap copies of heli-coil sets around, the Chinese sets are of dubious quality , I found a brand that is actually manufactured here in Aust.
Attached Thumbnails
20240614_175120.jpg   20240412_123717.jpg.224884197475770aad2043aafb510078.jpg   20240622_163337.jpg  
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad

Last edited by Mike Kelly; 23-06-24 at 08:47.
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  #70  
Old 25-06-24, 05:08
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default Gasket solution

Asking around, some restorers are using solid copper head gaskets on old vintage cars. Apparently the copper gaskets have been performing OK.

A business in Brisbane CNC cuts these solid gaskets , the copper needs to be annealed before fitting. Might be worth considering going down this route.
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
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