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  #1  
Old 13-02-11, 23:16
gary_bath_jr's Avatar
gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default Clutch Pedal

Hey Guys

I have taken the assembly that holds the Brake and Clutch Pedals to clean and repaint them, I was able to get the Brake pedal and it's matching piece on the right side back on however the clutch pedal does not seem to want to go back on. Were these press fit togther or am I doing something wrong. If need be I can take a picture of the parts I am talking about.

Gary
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  #2  
Old 14-02-11, 02:26
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Which Truck are you working on

Hi Gary

Which truck are you working on? I'm overhauling my HUP right now and think I know what the problems is. But want to be sure which assembly you are working on before I tell you where to hit it with a hammer.

I suspect that the problem is wear on the bushings. Did a complete micrometer measurement job on my assembly to track down the wear and play in the assembly.

Probably a couple of pictures will clear up the issue.

Cheers Phil
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  #3  
Old 14-02-11, 04:56
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default Cmp

Hey Phil sorry I had a bit of a moment there, I am working on a C15 Chev. Here are some pictures of the assembly I am trying to assemble and a part number for the stubborn pedal.

Gary
Attached Thumbnails
Pedal Assemblies (1).jpg   Pedal Assemblies (2).jpg   Pedal Assemblies (3).jpg   Pedal Assemblies (4).jpg  
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  #4  
Old 14-02-11, 15:52
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Got the picture

Hi Gary

Thought we were talking about the same issue. Just to confirm it is the clutch peddle that you are having problems with, correct?

The brake peddle is a press fit with a clamp bolt along with a key in the shaft. It should be a tight fit.

I assume that you have done all this but just to be sure I'll mention them anyway. Key way is clean the wooddrift key is not messed up and the key way and wooddrift key are lined up. Remove the clamp bolt while pushing or tapping the peddle onto the shaft.

Now at the clutch end or end of the shaft toward the engine, install the brake linkage lever on and push it flush with the shoulder of the shaft.

Did you install a new bushing in the clutch peddle?

My clutch peddle has a lot of side slop as the clutch peddle bushing is worn. Thank fully the shaft is not. Even with that wear in the bushing it is a hard push to get the peddle on or off the shaft.

I am planning to replace the bushing once the bushing is in place I'll ream the inside of the bushing to be a close fit on to the shaft.

The picture below shows the clutch end of the shaft you can see just a little wear in the shaft but the more important thing is that the shaft is round. While the old busing is now egg shaped. If you are reusing the original bushing think about the wear pattern relative to the shaft which would be with both peddles basically in line.
Attached Thumbnails
MLU1-28 Beast Rebuild Camera 010.jpg   MLU1-28 Beast Rebuild Camera 009.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 14-02-11, 21:39
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default Pedal

Hey Phil

It might be a little dark in my photo's however you will notice in pic 1 and 2 it is the same setup as in your pictures, I have those parts assmbled it is just the part that I believe is the clutch pedal that I can not get back on, it has a bushing inside that I may have damaged as it is starting to come out the other side.

Gary
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  #6  
Old 14-02-11, 23:04
lynx42 lynx42 is offline
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Default

How good is it that we can request help and have it come thick and fast with photos. Well done!
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  #7  
Old 14-02-11, 23:52
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Damage to Bushing

Hi Gary

Take a look at the picture below, I suspect that your damage may be like this where the lip of the bushing has been deformed. If the damage is minor you can probably reuse the bushing by carefully smoothing the raised lip. Or by carefully cutting/filing it off. I'd use a block of wood to carefully drive the bushing back in to the peddle. Then working carefully smooth ID of the bushing with very fine emery cloth until it slips back on to the shaft.

The bushing is a fairly tight fit in the bore of the peddle, so proceed with care. The ideal method of proceeding would be to carefully push the busing back in to the peddle. Then to use a line ream to clean up the ID of the bushing.

The bushing in the picture I want to replace so I'm looking for a source for them, they are a standard size, and relatively cheep $4 or $5 the problem is finding a source that will sell me a couple, not a gross. Once I find a source I let everybody know where I got them. I have a full set of line reams so getting a nice fit should not be a problem.

Fall back is to do the old mechanics trick of adding a layer of solder to the outside of the bushing file the split joint just a bit and drive the bushing which would then have a smaller ID which can be reamed to fit.

Your right Rick the sharing of information back and forth is one of the things I really like about MLU. It is so neat to have a question answered from halfway around the world in a matter of minutes sometimes.

Cheers Phil
Attached Thumbnails
MLU 2-14 Beast Rebuild Camera 002.jpg  
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  #8  
Old 15-02-11, 01:26
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Default Bigger hammer

Quote:
Originally Posted by gary_bath_jr View Post
Hey Phil sorry I had a bit of a moment there, I am working on a C15 Chev. Here are some pictures of the assembly I am trying to assemble and a part number for the stubborn pedal.

Gary
Gary
Clean up both shaft and pedal housing well and lightly lubricate..Then take the shaft part and put it in the freezer..
Go have two beers...
By the time you come back get out the shaft hunk and heat the pedal housing ..not to hot..you won't have too..you can have it in a can of boiling water too..but it doesn't have to be that hot..When you put the pedal on the frozen shaft it will slide right on..
I have done it a zillion times as a refrigeration mechanic pulling pulleys..bearings..bearing housings..fans..anything that can rust and stick on a shaft..I'm always used two different temperatures to pull apart and put back together on occasion.
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  #9  
Old 15-02-11, 02:24
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Good tip controled heating

Hi Alex

Good tip for installing ring type parts. Here is a picture of preping to install a ring gear on flywheel using your suggested method. I find that 20 minutes at 350 degrees F works great for ring gears. I have an old oven in the shop for heating parts and making lunch.

Cheers Phil
Attached Thumbnails
Copy of Tool  Ring Gear Installation 002.jpg  
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  #10  
Old 15-02-11, 05:15
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gary_bath_jr gary_bath_jr is offline
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Default Amazing

I love this site, I shal be forever gratefull to Geoff for having started such a great tool for those of us that are addicted to OD Green (with a smattering of rust).

Alex - Thank you very much I will give that a try and let you know how it comes out.

Phil - I appreciate all your input, you are absolutly correct on the damage that I have done to my bushing, fortunatly I have only bent over a tiny piece of it so I should be able to get it straight to proceed with the cold hot procedure. How many are in a gross? I have 2 cmp's to do and if a UC uses them I have 3 of those. Let me know how many are there and how much and maybe I will go halfs with you.

Gary
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  #11  
Old 15-02-11, 09:27
lynx42 lynx42 is offline
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Default

That shows how old some of us are, and how young the others are.

A gross is twelve dozen.








Ha, Ha ! better answer this for the littlies,

144 items in a gross.

Rick.
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1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai"
1941 F60L Cab12
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Humber FV1601A
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25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266
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