How To: Restore a Morris or keep fit

[Jonathan Moore]

Nice pistons Mike, where did you get them from as I will be requiring some spares for my engine. Its going to need to be relined, new pistons but the bottom end, cam shaft etc are in incredibly good condition with very little wear, so in that respect I am lucky.

Jon

[Mike Kelly]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Moore

Nice pistons Mike, where did you get them from as I will be requiring some spares for my engine. Its going to need to be relined, new pistons but the bottom end, cam shaft etc are in incredibly good condition with very little wear, so in that respect I am lucky.

Jon

Hi Jon

I think you need the 4 cyl. EH pistons, these are a larger bore than my 6 cyl OH engine. Apparently the 4 cyl. pistons are more easily found , you should have little problem sourcing the 4 cyl. pistons

[David Herbert]

Mike,
If the rust on the 'new' rings will clean off with minimal pitting I would use them. individual pitts will make no difference but obviously any significant loss of metal is a no-no. A very fiddly job though as each will have to be done by hand a cm at a time.

David

[Mike Kelly]

Originally Posted by David Herbert

Mike,
If the rust on the 'new' rings will clean off with minimal pitting I would use them. individual pitts will make no difference but obviously any significant loss of metal is a no-no. A very fiddly job though as each will have to be done by hand a cm at a time.

David

I am probably being fussy, the pitting is not that bad but the oil scraper rings do look somewhat dirty and distressed. There is a piston ring business down in Melbourne ( Phoenix rings ), might give them a try and find out how much a new set of cast iron rings will be .

[Mike Kelly]

Getting back to the Morris engine .

One major problem is: the small M6 metric water jacket cover bolts have snapped off.

My repair plan is to make a drilling guide plate and drill out the broken bolts. I can tap the holes to the larger M8 . size. A Hudson car restorer had the same problem, he used a drill press but he suggested using a mag drill would be ok. The drilling needs to be highly accurate. I have 4 holes where the bolts came to use as a guide. The holes are 46mm centre to centre in the x axis. . Pics will explain.

[Mike Kelly]

The 1937 to 41 military CS8 truck engine had it's genesis in the family of pre-war Morris 25 engines, the Morris 'big six' sedan of 1937 to 39 utilized the 25hp 82mm bore engine, the basic block was used in both civilian and military vehicles with variations in the cylinder heads, pistons, manifolds , carby and water pump. They are similar to other pre-war engines: poured big end bearings as used in the CMP Chevrolet 216.

I found a 25 engine out of a civilian Morris truck, the crankshaft and bearings are good enough for my needs . I plan to make up a engine from the two engines I have stripped down. I have new valves , pistons and valve guides (made by me). Just need to find a good engine machinist ..

These engines have a few peculiarities i.e. there isn't a rear main crank seal in the normal sense, they used a large flange with a threaded o.d. that throws the oil back . The dynamotor is chain driven by the duplex timing chain. The crankshaft has no counterweights.The military carburetor is a special updraft Solex-dustproof. Fuel is gravity fed to the carb from the Autovac vacuum unit that is mounted on the dash panel.

Another oddity is: the Leyrub joints, these are rubber 'universal joints' on each end of the prop shaft.. These joints are still available new. .