Wanted: 1942 15 cwt15 CMP stabilizing bar links

[Drew Sydorko]

Hello all,

New to this forum and new to the world of historic military vehicles. Recently got my hands on a semi-restored (2007) 1942 15 cwt CMP. The front stabilizing bar links on my truck are rotted out and need replacing. I'm tempted to try to fabricate new ones as close as I can but if there are some out there I'd rather have authentic ones. Looking for advice or better yet used ones in good condition. Have already gained much support and encouragement from Mr. Baines of Petrolia. Thanks Albert.

As green as my truck,

Drew

[Bob Carriere]

The search begins...... part of the OD green paint sickness.

You may find some on EBay called "shock absorber links" ........ Vintage Power Wagon from Fairfield USA has some model NEW but almost everything you find will have to be cut and rewelded to the dimension applicable to the CMP.

Do you have a good one to measure from????

They do vary from year to year on the CMP.

I can to photograph and measure some for you....... you will need to scrounge some rubber spacers for the bottom connection.

Bob C

[Grant Bowker]

There are two patterns of shock link that may be appropriate to your truck. The ones Bob is referring to (with rubber discs and large washers on either side of the axle mount) may be referred to as pear type. There is also a model that has similar tapered stud mounts at both top and bottom. These are available "off the shelf" from Vintage Power Wagons in length that suits Chev CMP. This type does require a small adapter bracket to convert the crosswise taper similar to the top of the link to the lengthwise thread similar to the spear type.
Bob has the spear type on his C15A, I have the link with 2 studs. Perhaps while Bob is taking photos and measurements, he can also check mine to let you see both types together. The length you will need is the center-to-center distance on the pins. I'm quite sure the link I used (without needing to modify) was "NOS Late Shock Absorber Link" on page 70 of http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pd.../16springs.pdf with the length given as 9-1/4"

[Drew Sydorko]

Thanks Gents,

I will have a look at your suggestions! My broken link arms have a tapered bolt, fixed rubber head and threaded rod at the bottom with two bushings and washers. I have had some luck using a tie rod tapered bolt fitting the arm but will need to fab the rest. I think it can be done. I have the originals for measurements so I'm good that way.
Thanks again for your suggestions.

Drew

[Drew Sydorko]

Grant and Bob,

Found these on ebay. I think the top end of these links could work if I cut the tapered knuckle section, weld on the length I need and scrounge washers and bushings as mentioned. I just need to make sure the taper is close. What do you think?

Drew

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Commer-3-4-To...item232d559351

[Bob Carriere]

Watch the money conversion and shipping cost from the UK..... you may be able to do better at Vintage PW in the USA...... I cut mine and welded a long threaded grade 8 bolt with the head removed.

Some car muffler outlets do sell the rubber spacers/washers. Same rubber parts are used on traction bars.

Cheers

[Drew Sydorko]

Thanks Bob,

I'll check both out and see which will work better. Good idea for the bushing.

Cheers, Drew