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  #1  
Old 19-07-19, 18:08
cordenj's Avatar
cordenj cordenj is offline
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Default Chev 216 Oil pickup and Main Bearing

Here is a simple question for anyone who has had the crank out of a 216 engine.
We are in the process of replacing the rear rope seal. Engine out and sump off, but looking at the oil feed pipe it seems to prevent access to one of the main bearing bolts.

Could someone tell me how the bearing cap bolt is meant to be accessed with a socket?

1. Is the oil pipe meant to be unbolted from one end and then pulled off the strainer column? Someone in the past has soldered that joint (can be easily unsoldered, but thought we'd check first!)

2. Was there a special socket tool to allow access the bearing cap bolt?

Here is a photo that hopefully makes it clear which part I'm referring to:

Thanks
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John.
1944 Chevrolet C8a HUP ZL-2
1944 Willys MB (British Guards Armoured Div);
1944 BSA Folding Bicycle (Best "Para Bike" at War&Peace Show 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2015);
Trailer, 10cwt, Water Lightweight, 100 gall;
Trailer, 10cwt, Cargo Lightweight 10cwt No1 MkII;
Trailer, 10cwt, Electrical Repair Mk.2; Ex-Airborne REME;
Trailer, 10cwt, Lightweight, Electric Welding Mk 2;
SOLD:1943 Chevrolet C60s Wrecker
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  #2  
Old 19-07-19, 19:06
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Remove the screen on the oil pickup

Hi John

If I remember correctly, remove the screen in the oil pickup look down inside think you will find a bolt that holds the unit to the bearing cap. Undo the oil line and the whole pickup can be removed giving access to the bearing cap.

Will look for a photo, or see if I've got a pump unit on the shelf.

Also as per the manuals be very careful of the little scoops on the crank ends, and the little spray tubes. If you don't have the manual I've got some information on how the oil system works https://www.canadianmilitarypattern....Page%20Two.htm

The oils system on the 216 is not high preasure but boy it pumps a lot of volume. If you are replacing the crank seals check the condition of the sealing surface, if pitted or worn, the surface can be replace with speedie sleeves. I've found the speedie sleeves work better than having the crank reground. I've got the numbers if you need them.

Cheers Phil
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  #3  
Old 19-07-19, 19:42
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cordenj cordenj is offline
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Hi Phil,

I've looked at your very useful info online before and we are taking great care not to disturb the oil dippers etc.

I've got a copy of the MB C2 manual, but unless I've missed it, there is nothing about how the remove the oil strainer. If you are able to confirm that would be great. thanks
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John.
1944 Chevrolet C8a HUP ZL-2
1944 Willys MB (British Guards Armoured Div);
1944 BSA Folding Bicycle (Best "Para Bike" at War&Peace Show 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2015);
Trailer, 10cwt, Water Lightweight, 100 gall;
Trailer, 10cwt, Cargo Lightweight 10cwt No1 MkII;
Trailer, 10cwt, Electrical Repair Mk.2; Ex-Airborne REME;
Trailer, 10cwt, Lightweight, Electric Welding Mk 2;
SOLD:1943 Chevrolet C60s Wrecker
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  #4  
Old 21-07-19, 05:54
motto motto is offline
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The oil pick-up strainer is held in the cup with a wire clip that runs from one side of the cup to the other. With this removed the strainer will easily be taken out of the cup.
If you then look down the centre of the pick-up tube you will see the hex head bolt holding the pick-up to the bearing cap.
You can see the join line in your photo adjacent the soldered connection.

David
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  #5  
Old 21-07-19, 18:27
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cordenj cordenj is offline
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Default

Thanks David
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John.
1944 Chevrolet C8a HUP ZL-2
1944 Willys MB (British Guards Armoured Div);
1944 BSA Folding Bicycle (Best "Para Bike" at War&Peace Show 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2015);
Trailer, 10cwt, Water Lightweight, 100 gall;
Trailer, 10cwt, Cargo Lightweight 10cwt No1 MkII;
Trailer, 10cwt, Electrical Repair Mk.2; Ex-Airborne REME;
Trailer, 10cwt, Lightweight, Electric Welding Mk 2;
SOLD:1943 Chevrolet C60s Wrecker
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