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#1
08-01-04, 22:29
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Cmp brown
I've probably come across it before, but was just wondering if anyone out there can give me the recipe, paint code, source etc for N0.2 brown as applied on cmps.
Rob Fast, Brian Gough, I know you guys have brown cmps. Any help appreciated. 
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#2
09-01-04, 09:48
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SCC 2
Chris, read my page on paint schemes for CMP trucks, all there is to know is just a few mouse clicks away.
Hope this helps, Hanno
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#3
12-01-04, 22:33
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What's the paint recipeeeeee ???
Hanno/Chris
I have looked at all the referred to sites BUT none have a mixing recipe...... ... now at the price of a 15 cc Humbrol bottle x times 2000 bottles... I can't afford it. Since my Cab 11 was made in May 1940, according to Goods son David Hayward... it owuld be nice to paint the sucker a nice coat of that shitty brown they used back then. As any one tried to mix basic Red...Blue..Yellow.... what ratio??? Goes something like this ..... blue and yellow gives you green...had some red gives you some brown some yellow and it turns variuos shade of khaki..... black to darken..... Back in the 70s when we purchased M37 we use to mix Tremclad R-B-Y and some flat black to darken....using gasoline as a thinner to flatten the paint even more.... results were mixed....and the paint had tremendous staying power on surfaces that had just been wash down with gasoline..... Maybe one of these cold evening I will try out my luck with small containers of Tremclad in the dark corner of the basement....... just need a bunch of small eyedropper to count the drops... What about you Chris....any paint mix experiences....?? Don any experience from the CWM???
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#4
12-01-04, 22:58
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Talk to Richard Notton
Dave Ballard's Polsten F15A is a wonderful shade of Dog Turd Brown (DTB for short). McStolly, who has been around since Christ was a Corporal, will know the mix the Ballards used to create that masterpiece (monsterpiece?
 )...
__________________
SUNRAY SENDS AND ENDS :remember :support
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#5
13-01-04, 15:58
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paint
Mixing your own paint has hidden traps . It's just about impossible to give out mixing formulas in real auto paint as each of us has access to vastly different paint brands . The Humbrol standard is I think , the best way to go , cos we can all buy it worldwide .
Firstly you have to ask . Do I want the finish to be exactly like the WW2 finish eg. matt non reflective . Then, think of the long term ability of the paint to withstand sun etc. without fading . The wartime paint was probably only meant to last a year at the most before repainting was needed . In the field , they didn't have thinners , but mostly use turps or petrol . There are some good threads on this topic on the G503 Jeep forum . Some WW2 Jeep restorers are soooo fussy , they pick and undo paint topics like notjhing else . Mike
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#6
13-01-04, 22:08
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Actual sample....
All good points......
.... in response to our warm Aussie friends ....weathering would be a factor.... my personal experience with Tremclad is that the M37 sat outside for years and only looked better .... including Sun, rain and SNOW....... .... the way they made paints in the past....welll no one of us would want to use on our trucks what they had to use.... So if I am to get drunk on fumes in my basement..... where can one get an actual sample of the DTB.... 2 inch square?? most computers do not reproduce the shades accurately..... I will prepare samples on light sheet metal of my brews....... Don Dingwal ...... now that you are back in Ottawa freezing you *** would the CWM have good samples on hand??? Of course if I am successfull I will have two gallons + of US WWII OD for sale...?? hahaha
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#7
14-01-04, 01:02
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Courtesy of Rob Fast
Re: "Nipper's" Paint
quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Bill Mulholland Rob; Firstly, let me say what great resto! I am getting to the stage of painting my KL, and I have not been too fortunate in finding the recipe for #2 Brown. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Bill -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off Bill, I want to let you know that myself and other members of our Prairie Command club have opted for cheap house paint for our vehicles, just in case the movie industry calls and they need a new paint scheme. Yes, they fade a little quicker, but they look tougher that way. And a fresh coat every spring costs me only $45.00 Canadian. Here is my home brew, using the Matchrite Color Designer paint color scanner. Para Paint/Alkyd/Melamine 4500 Poly Dog Turd No. 2 Base 4505 NEUT. I gallon size Amount C 3Y36 D 12 E .5 K .5 L 12Y41 Olive Drab Green Base 4505 Neut. I gallon size Amount A 9Y5 D 44 K 35 U 5Y12 Please make your initial mix in small pint sizes, just in case you don't like the shade. Anybody got a map light/dash mounted , for my HUW restoration? Cheers Rob
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#8
14-01-04, 09:17
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Re: Talk to Richard Notton
Quote:
I will ask Ballard but he does guard the formulation with some care. I think its largely of little value except as a starting point though unless you use the specific UK paint that he does which is commercial gloss with a goodly glug of matting agent. The reference came from bits of the truck unexposed initially and some Canadian box internals I think. As I recall it is just three base colours and it marks so easily too which gives that common spectacle of Ballard with the artists paint brush at a show doing touch-ups. You'll find the "travelling" pot of DTB in the right-hand top ammo locker if you need some. Sure, let's see more of it instead of the common OD, I like it and it allows hours of fun extracting the pee from Ballard and his "effing old DTB truck" as we are wont to call it.  I'll see what I can do.  R.
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#9
14-01-04, 09:36
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Quote:
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#10
14-01-04, 09:53
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Quote:
Stand by. R.
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#11
14-01-04, 11:30
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Bob C
...you are in ontario I see so the paint code of Robs should be no problem to mix up. I talked with Para paint and they can do a very durable UV resistant metal paint with this code no problem they said. Incidentally , they used a clear neutral ( they have 3 neutrals )
Also I the local home hardware said they can mix it up with that paint code also, though I am still waiting for them to get quarts/litres of the neutral I ordered in the fall...small towns the perfect place for learning self reliance and patience. Good thing we don't have a clock tower... Sean Richard, 3:29 am here at work and I wish I could look at the inside of my eyelids, so let him enjoy for me vicariously..
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#12
14-01-04, 21:41
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Shocked
Quote:
Shocked of Oxford 
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#13
14-01-04, 22:52
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Re: Shocked
Quote:
Shambolic of Shirrell Heath here. To be fair, he does often work evenings and most weekends too, albeit 50/50 paying jobs and homers. I do have him awake at 07:00 though on show sites since Rory and I have to do breakfast while the truck cover comes off and he cleans it; left to Himself we'd just get cornflakes and a biscuit, that is, if he wasn't already busy bumping gums with someone. We do leave the washing up though, seeing as how he's in cleaning mode. Now the paint thing; I posted a reply to Rob but the naffware presented me with an error screen rather than the post which is now lost in space, as it were.  So, there is no easy answer and while the Brits will recognise the paint shades others may not, Ballard doesn't have a formula per se but does it by eye and experience from the original samples and the truck itself. He takes a base of "standard" NATO green (OD if you will) and adds signal red, canary yellow, black and some white "to taste", Ballard says the originals he has are not truly flat but almost semi-satin and when using a matt base colour with gloss additives, only a tad of matting agent is needed. Its the original sample that's important and Rory reminds me our friend in Eastleigh has an ex-Canadian jeep in No.2 DTB. His colour sample was a Canadian tin hat bought in Canada and apparently quite common and cheap over there. Now apart from the master chef concoction of Ballard snr, young R Ballard has been re-assembling the CDSW axles after machining and sleeving for those brass split-ball spring anchors - a bit of less than sensible M-C design, but that's another story. (Don't fret Mike K, I'll send pictures) To get the paint shade right from some protected, bolted-up faces he has stumbled upon a near perfect No.2 DTB with just two components; I've seen it next to the F15 and it is PDG. Simply good old British Army gloss deep bronze green and red oxide primer; the DBG is common stuff here; so common I see RB uses it as an undercoat/sealer on the red oxide before the final correct matt shade. To finally attain the dark green of the original CDSW parts some yellow was necessarily added. I have no idea if DBG is available elsewhere but overseas Champs, Ferrets and the like seem to be presented in resplendent post war gloss DBG so perhaps it is. I'm minded though that most likely ultimate paint shade standards were not available 60 years ago and in any case it does somewhat depend on the eye of the beholder and the nature of your daylight of course. Perhaps even back then there were noticeable differences between paint batches and manufacturers. So, if you're waiting for an exact formula using current paint codes then I'm sorry to disappoint, it seems not to be an exact science. R.
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#14
14-01-04, 23:20
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Formula for Matt Brown Camo ( Dark Earth)
The following is a paint formula for DARK EARTH a paint colour that was was formulated I belive to exsactly Match the War Time colour used on a Lancaster Bomber on display in Australia. You will need access to the Watyl Spartn Colour range. (My books tell me they are in UK)
Tinter Wieght in metric grams 103 1000 101 2000 107 2385 104 2760 146 3135 ufb-333 add 1 litre to 4 litre (25% flatning base)
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#15
14-01-04, 23:29
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Re: Formula for Matt Brown Camo ( Dark Earth)
Quote:
http://www.wattyl.com.au/ R.
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#16
14-01-04, 23:53
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Re: Formula for Matt Brown Camo ( Dark Earth)
Quote:
I just took delivery of some Dark Earth paint today for a customers vehicle, there is a BS number which I cannot remember, when I go to the workshop tomorrow, will have look. Richard
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#17
15-01-04, 16:13
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Re: Re: Shocked
Quote:
Wattyl paint . Yes, Wattyl here in OZ make a industrial enamel in flat olive drab . I have used it , but after it dries it has the feel of chalk , so much flattening base in it , its dead flat . Results with it are not very good . The flattening base they use is just talcum powder in a liquid base . The problem is , the high level of talc in it has the effect of colour change in varying light levels . It's possible to flatten enamel yourself with ordinary talc powder ( same as babies bum stuff ) mix it in slowly a little at a time until the finish is semi flat or matt . . Depending on cost , it may be just as easy to use the proper stuff as I think the grocery store talc bottles would add up in cost . Mike
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#18
15-01-04, 18:23
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Re: Re: Re: Shocked
Quote:
I'll take some tomorrow to alleviate CDSW withdrawal symptoms, been hissing down here for days, cold too. I see from other lists people complaining about some commercial paints actually fading and going chalky after a relatively short time. I've never known the Ballards use talcum powder and not seen anything painted with matt paints here supplied from a specialist supplier that has gone chalky. I have no idea what the "matting agent" is that they use but it is a commercial product and looks like dull, muddy light brown and thickish liquid that you just add as needed. As far as I know its an over the counter stuff from the automotive paint suppliers, but I will ask. R.
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#19
16-01-04, 22:03
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What a volatile subject paint is.....
Thanks guys.....
Being in the same frigid continent at Rob I will try is North American formulae at least in pint size... at worst I will have a good primer..... I have acquired 3 small 237ml cans of basic yellow blue and red from Tremclad now I need 3 eyedropper....should be a messy weekend. Years ago we use to buy a flattening substance called "Suedine" that was very effective at dulling paint. Personnaly I will use gasoline to thin out and see if it impacts sufficiently on the resulting gloss dry coat. The advantage of suing a non-automotive paint is that they weather very fast and loose whatever semigloss appreance very quickly........ Will need to visit Home depot or Home hardware to see if they can mix Rob's brew... In the end, I can slop every bad attempts in a large 5 gal. can and paint the barn....... only concern is I may not find it when surrounded with the trees. Here barny...barny...barny... where are you....????
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#20
20-01-04, 13:33
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Re: What's the paint recipeeeeee ???
Quote:
Quote:
Regards, Hanno
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#21
21-01-04, 20:11
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Thanks Hanno....
You are correct with the time frame and color...... it was pointed out to me by Don Dingwall the same thing......
.... in fact in disassembling my truck every evidence of leftover paint.... deep inside recesses and overlapping panel is that some kind of OD Green was originally used and form a test batch... the spray from the can OD WWII flat green is very similar if you allow for slight changes for time/oxidization...... On the Humbrol paint sample..... my son the modeler has offered to mix the formula for me as a guide....... Thanks for the tip..... meanwhile I am having fun with mixing the 3 basic colors red,blue, yellow..... but I am still getting too much gloss... I will have to drop by an automotive paint shop to buy some flatening agent.... or the drug store for baby powder..... I will have the only shitty brown paint that will smell like a baby's bottom...
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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