Info needed: F30 grease seals ?

[Paul.H]

Hi trying to find grease seals for my f30 truck from macs
front wheel grease seal is it a 91t-1190 # 47-20293-1 with an od of3.31inches seams to small?
Rear seal looks like a bb-1175c #4731970-1 with od of 4.56inch think that is the right one?
any help would be great as i do not have a parts book
thanks

[Lynn Eades]

BB-1175-C is the hub seal.

[Paul.H]

Thanks Lynn, thats the rear, but the front one?

[T Creighton]

Hi Paul,
Have a look at the parts list attached.
F30 column is 5 in from the right edge'
Cheers, Terry

[Paul.H]

Thanks Terry that's given me the numbers i need don't think macs do that
seal i will get it matched at a bearing and seal supplier

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Pick the correct part number from the table and then look up the current SKF part number here: http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popu...kup_457012.htm

[Paul.H]

Thanks Hanno , do you know the part numbers for the front spring ubolt nuts?
no parts book still !

Paul

[JoãoBoscoBarbosa]

I need a pair the part too.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

The funny thing about the rear axle seal, if you don't drive the truck on extreme side hills or deep water you don't need the seal. How do I know? I forgot and left it out on one of the my trucks and didn't know it until the next major brake job. No drips out of brake drum no gear lube inside on the backing plate. I think what kept the gear lube on the right side of the bearing was the wheel bearings were extremely well backed with grease.

Of course having the seal inside is much better than having it sit on the parts shelf.

In one of the old threads on rear wheel bearing, I included some figures on how much side slope you need to even get the gear lube in the diff out to the wheel bearing and hence the seals. Will try and find old thread.

My point is if the seal is the only thing missing don't hold off on driving the truck.

Cheers Phil

[rob love]

Phil

Are you talking about the outer wheel seal? That is to say,the one that is sandwiched between the two adjusting nuts? Yes, that one you may get away without for a spell, but personally I prefer them installed.

Or are you talking about the inner wheel seal as illustrated in the second post? That would be very unsafe to be running without that installed. When the grease warms up, it can throw into the brakes causing as much problem the oil would. Overpacking the hub is not ideal either as it retains heat. Just enough grease to lubricate the bearings and coat all the surfaces is how I run.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Rob

I was speaking of one in Lynn's picture but the outer seals under the wheel axle shafts nut are missing from that truck (Pattern 12 C60L ) as there was no seal lip was left.

As to over packing wheel bearings, I agree, you and I have both seen wheel hubs were the entire hub between the bearings was packed solid with grease, which is an invatation for grease getting where it should not. My extremely well packed is being sure to fill the spaces between all the rollers.

It really just boils how steep a cross slope you want to drive or park the truck on. Sure would not want do any mud bogging or deep water fording with out the seal in the picture.

At the time I found the seal sitting on the shelf I had been working on all three CMPs so I didn't have a clue which truck or which wheel it was missing from. Figured that a little driving and it would become evident, it never did. Wasn't until five or so years later, when doing preventive maintenance that I found which wheel.

Cheers Phil

[Lynn Eades]

Phil, I certainly wouldn't run without the inner hub seal, and i wouldn't take a chance on leaving the outer hub seal out. That to me is my second line of defence. It is there to keep the diff oil from mixing with the grease in the wheel bearings. The oil can walk along the axles. It doesn't have to be used at steep angles to get oil to the hubs.
The idea is to fully pack the wheel bearings, but not to pack the hub cavity.
I always work the grease in from the big end of the rollers until is comes through at the small end (of each cone)
I give the hub inner a generous wipe of grease all over the steel surface,(this is practicing paranoia ) but leave the cavity otherwise empty. ( the cups and seal track get coated as well, of course)

Back around WWII and earlier the grease was not as we know it today.(I think Moly was a WWII discovery) It used to melt and run like oil in the hub and the procedure was to partly fill the hub. The grease melted and ran into the bearings) (using the old grease without your inner hub seal (BB-1175-c) would have filled your brakes with grease on the first run)
Nowadays the grease is so much better that some car wheel bearings come factory packed and when they deteriorate they are renewed.
The high melting point moly (molybdenum di sulphide) greases don't melt. It requires only a small quantity to adequately lube the bearings. (the rolling action never completely rolls the lube away)
When I was an apprentice, (early 70s) front wheel bearings in a car were generally re packed annually or at about 12,000 miles (20,000 km) Today I would think many factory sealed (factory preloaded) wheel bearings are good for a million km.

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Paul.H

Thanks Hanno , do you know the part numbers for the front spring ubolt nuts?
no parts book still !

Paul

They could be p/n 33871 which is a longer, hardened, 5/8 x 18 tpi hex nut.
That is what is on my F30 anyway.
Regards, Terry.
ps. I have sent you a p/m

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

BB-1175-C is the hub seal.

Was just on the Mac's site and they have the seal currently listed at $4.99 each. Unbelievabe price, I ordered some spares.

When I look this seal up at the local NAPA, they want

Part:
UBS 31284 Product Line:
List price
Your Cost
Unit
:
:
:
142.13
74.99
Each

[Paul.H]

Thats where i got mine!!



p.s.Terry i sent you a p.m. i think!

[Lynn Eades]

Damn you Rob Love! I just spent some money. Again!

[rob love]

Lynn: When you buy seals for $5 that are listed for $140, you are not spending money.....you are saving money. The more you buy the more you save.

The same seal is used on just about everything CMP. I think the majority of us on this site know we can't just own one....we must own many.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by rob love

Lynn: When you buy seals for $5 that are listed for $140, you are not spending money.....you are saving money. The more you buy the more you save.

The same seal is used on just about everything CMP. I think the majority of us on this site know we can't just own one....we must own many.

But what quality can you expect at 5 bucks apiece?!?

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

But what quality can you expect at 5 bucks apiece?!?

I am not worried. Mac's generally does not sell garbage, and I have used plenty of this seal from them in the past.

More likely it is a misprint in price, or an overpurchase. Normally these sell from Mac's at approx. $20 USD each, and slightly higher from others. They are synthetic (rubber) as opposed to the original leather. While I have heard leather is a superior seal, they also chew the heck out of the shaft they ride on.

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

But what quality can you expect at 5 bucks apiece?!?

Got them today, and they are most likely a Chinese made seal, but appear to be fine. They would be a bargain at 4 times the price.

Quite frankly, the Chinese are making just about anything for everybody. Even the old-time USA companies like Owatona tool company (OTC) and Snap on are listing items made offshore.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Paul.H

front wheel grease seal is it a 91t-1190 # 47-20293-1 with an od of3.31inches seams to small?

As per Terry's picture of the parts list (see below), I think you need:

Part number: *C01Q-1190-B
Part name: Seal - front axle hub grease leather oil seal

See the thread A Study Of Seals - this cross references to SKF 45150: http://www.skfextranet.com/catalogs/...il.asp?s=45150