Reference: Timber or steel C15A or F15A or F15 Body Drawing

[sth65pac]

Hi All,

Does anyone here have drawings/blueprints for C15A F15A C15 F15 Timber or steel tub/rear/tray etc? I intend to make one from scratch so I would be very appreciative of any measurements, or any drawings.

PS DON'T RUSH Rome took two days to build!

I am intending to build from pine or sheet steel and not hardwood or full gauge as it will never be used for carrying heavy loads, just show.

Cheers Ian.

[Grant Bowker]

A set of AutoCAD drawings have been made by Ted Gil of a (steel) 2J1 body for the 15cwt. I haven't used them to build a body as proof of concept but they do look good.
see http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=12216

[Niels V]

There is also a set of near complet drawings of the wooden body used, in a thread some where here on mlu

[Jordan Baker]

I've got my hand drawn sketches I did when making my tailgate. I just haven't redrawn them on CAD.

Grant, did you get a copy of his drawings? The last few posts on that thread from 7 years ago was no one had heard back from him.

[Grant Bowker]

I did buy a copy. He was only selling them hard copy, on 11x17 paper. I asked if he would consider selling them as .dwg files so I could get them printed on larger paper if giving them to a production shop. He was not interested in electronic distribution as it would be so easy for people to make "just one copy for a reliable friend" and pretty soon he has lost control of his document. He was concerned enough about it that he has registered a copyright on the drawings. If you are looking for contact information for Ted I can try to find what I used.

I have to say that I understand and mainly agree with him. I have the same issue when it comes to the reproduction manuals. There is considerable effort and time involved in scanning a 300 page manual so I would like some return on the effort and also the time and money spent acquiring the manuals.

[Jordan Baker]

Ok good to know the drawings were made. I fully understand what you've said.

[cletrac (RIP)]

Here's my thread on the wooden 2C1 box.

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by cletrac

Here's my thread on the wooden 2C1 box.

David,

That is what I am after. I want to do a timber back as it is somewhat lighter than the steel ones. The old girl doesn't need any extra weight so I will follow your lead. I will probably have a million questions to ask in time.

I bought Blueprint for Victory many years ago, which has some very good photographs. Ahh well, I can put it on the 'to do' list now.

Cheers,

Ian

[Ian Mastin]

G'day Ian,

I have not got drawings for timber tray mate! But I did build one for my Fordson WOT2h truck if you like I could build you one if you are interested, I try to upload some photo's of my tray but it didn't work so Ian have a look at my FB page you will see some there.



Regards
Ian

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

I am intending to build from pine or sheet steel and not hardwood or full gauge as it will never be used for carrying heavy loads, just show.

Contrary to popular belief, only the cross members were made of hardwood, the planking was softwood so you would be good using pine. I'll look up the thread with that info later.

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by sth65pac

That is what I am after. I want to do a timber back as it is somewhat lighter than the steel ones. The old girl doesn't need any extra weight so I will follow your lead. I will probably have a million questions to ask in time.

Hi Ian,

You may be surprised at the weight of a steel body. I can lift the sides, front panel, and tailgate individually on my 15 CWT body. The floor is a different matter however!

I have attached a few drawings I made in the 90's from an original rusted out floor when I thought I would replace it with a scratch built one. May give you some food for thought.
It is pretty much a large sheet metal brake job, spot welded together. The only difficult fabrication I could see is the stiffeners on the sides, front, and tailgate shown in photo at the top.

I never made drawings for the sides and tailgate as they were in reasonably good shape. Should you want to go the steel body route I could knock out some drawings of them this winter.

Cheers,

[sth65pac]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi Ian,

You may be surprised at the weight of a steel body. I can lift the sides, front panel, and tailgate individually on my 15 CWT body. The floor is a different matter however!

I have attached a few drawings I made in the 90's from an original rusted out floor when I thought I would replace it with a scratch built one. May give you some food for thought.
It is pretty much a large sheet metal brake job, spot welded together. The only difficult fabrication I could see is the stiffeners on the sides, front, and tailgate shown in photo at the top.

I never made drawings for the sides and tailgate as they were in reasonably good shape. Should you want to go the steel body route I could knock out some drawings of them this winter.

Cheers,

Jaques,

I really don't know what to say. This is great. Now I am beginning to think Steel Body, though my skill is in timber. Winter is a fair way away for you so that give me time to decide.

Cheers,

Ian

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Ian,

Found another drawing- location of the 72 cage nuts used to attach the valance panels and the sides to the floor.

A friend with patience and a heavy duty spot welder would come in handy for doing that job!

Cheers,

[Mike Cecil]

From Hanno:

"Contrary to popular belief, only the cross members were made of hardwood, the planking was softwood so you would be good using pine. I'll look up the thread with that info later."

For Canadian (and British?) wood trays, but doesn't apply in Australia. The trays were a local pattern and made of hardwood.

Jacques: or if a big spot welder is not available (as it isn't for many of us I suspect), use the drill-and-weld method. Drill small holes in one side of the pair to be welded, then weld through the hole to the undrilled-other half. With small holes, 'dabbing' the arc and grinding off, it leaves a neat 'spot'.

Regards

Mike

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Mike Cecil

From Hanno:

"Contrary to popular belief, only the cross members were made of hardwood, the planking was softwood so you would be good using pine. I'll look up the thread with that info later."

For Canadian (and British?) wood trays, but doesn't apply in Australia. The trays were a local pattern and made of hardwood.

For Canadian and British wooden bodies, indeed. Attached is a drawing for the Canadian 2H1 15-cwt body as fitted to CMP trucks. The construction of these bodies were based on the British design.

Note the thicknesses of the boards and the types of wood used in the construction of these bodies.

The British even published an Electrical and Mechanical Engineering Regulation (EMER) for wood specifying the various types of timber to use on vehicles - see HMVF forum: Timber for old MV's

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Attached is a drawing for the Canadian 2H1 15-cwt body as fitted to CMP trucks.

Also see the thread 15-cwt GS body: 2H1 composite wood and steel for some more details.

HTH,
Hanno