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  #571  
Old 26-11-17, 21:02
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Colin I read some where that the VLTs suffered from overheating issues, but with the new engines they had fixed the problem for the tanks going to North Africa.
The Lagonda guys are talking about S2,S3,S4 models and yours is an ESTB. Are they versions of the ESTB? or are they different again.
They certainly sound like they have their issues. Your "dime a dozen" Falcon sounds like a very reliable option?

It appears that there were about 900 Mk6bs, so maybe a sump somewhere? I bet some of those Lagonda guys have gone past some of the oddball bits you're searching for.
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  #572  
Old 26-11-17, 22:00
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I spoke with a Lagonda restorer at the weekend.

The basic engine is the same in the light tank as the cars. The sump and ancillaries etc are different between versions but the basic castings are common. If you could find a car engine he suggested you’d have the vast majority of the what you needed....... he said the main issue would be finding an unwanted engine (or parts) and being prepared to compete in a very expensive classic car market.

His suggestion was to use another engine type to get the tank moving and build the Meadows slowly as affordable parts became available. He did apologise saying it’s not the best news but without a blank cheque book they can be an awkward engine to restore if the general parts condition is poor........ certainly possible but prepare to be patient.
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  #573  
Old 26-11-17, 22:39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon king View Post
The Lagonda aficionados seem to use TWR (presumably Tom Walkinshaw Racing) Volvo pistons.
TRW, not TWR, is a major automotive parts manufacturer.

https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/
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  #574  
Old 27-11-17, 09:18
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Interesting comments but I have no doubt what so ever that this engine will go. The head is good, the block is good, crank case good, gaskets are no problem, camshaft can be linished same as the crank. 4-5 places in Adelaide that make white metal bearings, I am currently making a new sump and riser. It's just a couple of pistons to get made or I might be able to get a full S/H set for 500 dollars and a bit of machining here and there so I really don't feel quite too concerned about its repair. It will take me the next three days for the riser and three more for the sump. I'll post some pics when they're done. It's a bit exciting and we'll be in New Zealand in three weeks or so.
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  #575  
Old 27-11-17, 12:53
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Well that news is a quantum leap forward for you, Colin!

Is there anything Vickers related to look at in New Zealand while you are there? A shed full of NOS parts, perhaps?

David
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  #576  
Old 29-11-17, 15:35
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Love it ! if you don't quit Colin, you cant fail.
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  #577  
Old 13-12-17, 06:49
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I know it's been a while between postings but I had a job to do for some one so here's where I am now.
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  #578  
Old 13-12-17, 06:51
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This part is the riser in between the sump and the crank case.
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  #579  
Old 13-12-17, 06:53
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This is certainly going to add some extra weight.
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  #580  
Old 13-12-17, 06:56
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I had to be relatively spot on to get the pipes and oil pump in the exact location.
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  #581  
Old 13-12-17, 06:58
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Just as well for me that most of the surfaces were flat and not too many curves like the bottom of the trans.
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  #582  
Old 13-12-17, 07:01
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I think I got a bit out of sequence there
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  #583  
Old 13-12-17, 07:03
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And a general put together to make sure everything lines up.
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  #584  
Old 13-12-17, 07:08
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It does all sit together very well but that does not mean the whole thing won't vibrate like mad when running. I am only guessing that it should run like the original parts as the crank shaft is bolted to the crank case and there are no bearings connected to the parts I have made so I am crossing my fingers that all will be well. Anyway that's about it for the engine parts I needed to make and I can get on with the internals as I only have just over a week left before we go on holidays.
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  #585  
Old 13-12-17, 07:23
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Hi Colin,

Again, all I can say is 'wow'......
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  #586  
Old 13-12-17, 10:13
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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I must be sure to go to the cinema this weekend. I am sure there will be a Pathe News clip about the Meadows tank engine back in production!

David
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  #587  
Old 13-12-17, 12:18
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
I spoke with a Lagonda restorer at the weekend.

The basic engine is the same in the light tank as the cars. The sump and ancillaries etc are different between versions but the basic castings are common. If you could find a car engine he suggested you’d have the vast majority of the what you needed....... he said the main issue would be finding an unwanted engine (or parts) and being prepared to compete in a very expensive classic car market.

His suggestion was to use another engine type to get the tank moving and build the Meadows slowly as affordable parts became available. He did apologise saying it’s not the best news but without a blank cheque book they can be an awkward engine to restore if the general parts condition is poor........ certainly possible but prepare to be patient.
There is a story of an American speedboat builder buying up a UK MOD stash of rebuilt Centurion tank engines. They were ordered for Centurion (something specials) before the Gulf War, when it looked like the old supplies wouldn't last long enough to keep the old girls in the fight. But the war ended quickly, and the contract was not cancelled. Then the Centurion funnies were sold off. Consequently, several dozen zero time engines sat in stores getting old without a service need. Skip ahead, and the fellow got word of a supply of engines which he could repurpose to propel one-of-a-kind speedboats at high speeds for the genteel classes of wooden boat owners. Now if a tank owner wants a replacement engine, he's competing with the "Woodier Than Thou" types.
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  #588  
Old 13-12-17, 13:52
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is online now
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Like others, I'm impressed by your standard of work and willingness to take on a challenge.
There's one thing about the sump that puzzles me. If the ribs are mainly for stiffening, my question is probably irrelevant but if they also act as cooling fins, wouldn't a continuous weld of rib to bottom plate help heat transfer?
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  #589  
Old 13-12-17, 16:17
David Herbert David Herbert is online now
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Grant,
If the fins were continuous welded they would certainly radiate rather more heat but not as much more as you might expect, probably less than 50% extra. I did some experiments with this when designing a lamp housing many years ago. The down side would be that all that extra welding would cause quite bad distortion that would be very hard to sort out.

Colin,
Beautiful job once again !!!

David
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  #590  
Old 13-12-17, 16:32
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Sweet mother of god you take on and do some amazing work. Without a doubt this is right up there with the top five restorations posted here. Thanks for the lavish spread of pics showing the work and progress.
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  #591  
Old 13-12-17, 20:38
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Quote:
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Sweet mother of god ..... Without a doubt this is right up there with the top five restorations posted here.
Good lord, point me to the other four!
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  #592  
Old 14-12-17, 11:12
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Thankyou gentlemen for you comments but again it is nothing more than fabrication and there is plenty here that are, and have done great work that would far exceed what I have done.
Grant, you are correct about cooling fins but David did answer what I considered during the fabrication. As I am only using 3mm plate is would be near impossible for me to keep it straight and I didn't think that what I have done would hinder the cooling effect very much and I think that the thinner gauge plate should compensate (I hope)
James I guess it was a case of have a go or don't use the original engine and seeing that I have made the trans box it didn't seem to much to think about. I will be pretty nervous on the first start up though. That part I will have to video
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  #593  
Old 14-12-17, 15:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colin jones View Post
Thankyou gentlemen for you comments but again it is nothing more than fabrication and there is plenty here that are, and have done great work that would far exceed what I have done.
Grant, you are correct about cooling fins but David did answer what I considered during the fabrication. As I am only using 3mm plate is would be near impossible for me to keep it straight and I didn't think that what I have done would hinder the cooling effect very much and I think that the thinner gauge plate should compensate (I hope)
James I guess it was a case of have a go or don't use the original engine and seeing that I have made the trans box it didn't seem to much to think about. I will be pretty nervous on the first start up though. That part I will have to video
Please do video the start up....it is going to be amazing.
Colin my only thought, the "riser section" is thin plate, and I wonder if some form of longitudinal stiffening may be required, the original having been a cast item was stiffer.....I can only recall re-building an engine years ago (nothing like this though)....I had not noticed the sump had a "small" dent. As I had been working on until late, it was night time when I fired it up.....the noise of the con rods hitting the sump woke the whole neighbourhood....dogs barking and babies crying.....wasn't very popular !!!
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  #594  
Old 14-12-17, 22:05
Perry Kitson Perry Kitson is offline
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Colin,

Absolutely fantastic work! I only wish I lived down the road from you so I could come over and "skin a few knuckles " with you on the project.
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  #595  
Old 15-12-17, 01:01
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George, I don't think the 3mm plate will be an issue as the original alloy was only about 5-6mm and certainly not as strong as steel and the riser is only 100mm in height but as this is the first engine component I have built, I'll call it an educated guess . I will make sure that I don't do my initial start up late at night
Perry, Canada not far at all if you say it quickly and I've probably skun enough knuckles for the both of us and a few more .
On another note, I was talking to Jack Neville on the phone yesterday and it came up about tools and things we have that make our job easy so I thought I would share this with everyone and perhaps others might have helpful things in return.
It's always a pain in the centre section between your feet and head with extension chords or the drill is just not quite long enough or you are constantly changing power tools in the socket. It just stuck one day through sheer frustration of chords under my feet and no where to put my drill and grinder to I made a tool tree and it was the best thing I have ever done to ease frustration and having one solid work area on wheels. I need one power lead that I plug into my power board and all my power tools are plugged in all the time and some where to hang or hook them so they are not on my work area. and not in the way.
Just food for thought
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  #596  
Old 15-12-17, 13:15
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To funny, I can relate about the power lines and air hoses going everywhere but where you need them. I mounted my blasting cabinet on wheels so I can move it about and reconfigure the garage as needed.
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  #597  
Old 17-12-17, 15:16
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OUTSTANDING !

And that Gentlemen is how he does that !
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  #598  
Old 07-01-18, 09:51
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Happy New year to all. I trust everyone had a good one. I am back from a cruise around New Zealand and it certainly is a most beautiful country.
I am doing the fuel tanks as I want to close in the back to complete the hulls.
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  #599  
Old 07-01-18, 09:55
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Quite a few angles to these tanks and they have a very solid baffle in there as well.
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  #600  
Old 07-01-18, 09:56
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Hopefully I'll get them completed tomorrow.
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