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Old 09-10-19, 18:55
MikeV MikeV is offline
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Unhappy 11 cab CMP Distributor question

Hello Everyone
I am a looking for a bit of help. I am a member of the ONTR museum in Oshawa and we are rebuilding a 11cab ford v8 we are at the point of trying to check for ignition to the spark plugs, but the clam shell distributer which is on the front of the motor ( had to remove every thing to get at it.)
Looks like it has a bit of wear to the contacts . we cleaned up the contacts and tried an ohmmeter on the contact inside the cap to the plug connection. Should I get a reading to show it will carry voltage or will we have to hook everything up and hope for the best ?
All the wires look original and so is the dist. cap. we have replaced the coil and set and cleaned the points and rotor.
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Old 09-10-19, 19:22
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Tony Smith Tony Smith is offline
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That is not an original 11 Cab distributor, it is called a 59A and was fitted to post-war engines from '46 to '49. Due to it's distinctive cap, it has the nickname of "Rabbit ears". The distributor itself is essentially the same as the '42 to '45 "Crab cap" distributor. The original type was a 3 bolt "Diver's Helmet".

I am not sure exactly what you mean by the rest of your question. Are you asking if there should be electrical continuity between the inside terminals on the cap and the outer sockets where the Ign leads fit? Certainly should be!
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Old 09-10-19, 21:11
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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I may have this wrong, but I think one set of points establishes the dwell and the other set triggers the spark. To check continuity through each set of points, you need to insulate/ isolate the other set of points by putting a piece of paper between the contacts. I hope that helps.
I have a timing jig, but could not figure out what I was doing. I had already ordered a Pertronix for it along with their coil. I installed them and the engine has never missed a beat.
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Old 10-10-19, 13:40
Brian Butt Brian Butt is offline
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I'm the other half of the 15 cwt team at the Ontario Regiment Museum. We know the truck has a post war engine, but didn't know from what year, so '46 to '49 seems about right. Besides the engine, we know the transmission came out of a civilian truck, because the shifter is way too long, (Ape hanger comes to mind), I'll include some other pics, when I get a chance.
The other part of Mike's question was regarding continuity through the plug wires; We hooked up an Ohm meter, with one probe on the inside cap terminal for one of the cylinders, then the other probe to the clip that goes on the plug. No matter which wire we moved the probe to, it still indicated an open circuit. Shouldn't we be getting some sort of reading?
Now, if the plug wires are pooched, where could we get replacements?
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Old 10-10-19, 14:03
rob love rob love is offline
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The best wire to use is the steel core 7mm wire on these older systems. NAPA ha a semi tailored set, part number 700170 for around $63 ($45 if you are in the trade) that work fine, or you can order the wire in a spool and buy the ends in either bulk or individually. Personally, I buy it in bulk.

Napa also has the points set (CS47) but they aren't cheap at $65 ($40 trade).


You can likely get the stuff a bit cheaper thru specialty shops like Dennis Carpenter or Mac's.
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Old 10-10-19, 14:15
Brian Butt Brian Butt is offline
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I'm the other half of the 15 cwt team at the Ontario Regiment Museum. We know the truck has a post war engine, but didn't know from what year, so '46 to '49 seems about right. Besides the engine, we know the transmission came out of a civilian truck, because the shifter is way too long, (Ape hanger comes to mind), I'll include some other pics, when I get a chance.
The other part of Mike's question was regarding continuity through the plug wires; We hooked up an Ohm meter, with one probe on the inside cap terminal for one of the cylinders, then the other probe to the clip that goes on the plug. No matter which wire we moved the probe to, it still indicated an open circuit. Shouldn't we be getting some sort of reading?
Now, if the plug wires are pooched, where could we get replacements?
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Old 10-10-19, 16:50
Brian Butt Brian Butt is offline
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Thanks Rob, that will get us going in the right direction.
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Old 10-10-19, 17:17
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Given the nature of the project, I would recommend if the budget permits, Petronix ignition and coil. Maintenance free after that. especially given how hard it is to get to the points.
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