In need of a M38 wiring harness

[D Broughton]

I know, good luck finding one in good shape. But you gotta ask, mine has all the parts but is a fire hazard without power connected! I have thought of rebuilding mine but could not find any good reference material on how to remake the Douglas connections. if anyone here has a link to someone explaining how please let me know. I missed one on craigy list a few weeks back in Victoria bc but not sure of its condition. I know you can buy a new one and they do look good but i would have to part with my other 1968 M38A1CND2 parts/ restoration project. Too many projects !

Darren

[D Broughton]

miss posted into wrong area, but couldn't edit location.
Thanks Darren

[rob love]

You can buy the proper mil spec wire, the connectors, and the crimpers. I recommend the C24 pressure tool crimpers by Buchannan. If you go to your local electrical supply store they will run you about $60, however if you watch ebay they can usually be had for about $20 or so. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BUCHANAN-C-2...item564e0f3b69

For the connections, you can get away with buying just the terminals and the rubber grommets, and re-use all the metal shells and the insulator. Avoid the temptation to use commercial automotive wire....the vinyl will not look or last as good as the rubber coated mil spec (usually made by prestolite) wire. Also, you are best off to solder and crimp the terminals. If you can find any old deuces or M37s in your neck of the woods, they are a good source for salvaging the shells and insulators. Usually the ones found under the dash are pretty minty.

I note that lately the prices on the connections has been bordering on ridiculous. When all is said and done, you will be a lot cheaper off buying the harness from one of the dealers. I wouldn't bother with a salvaged original harness. They will be 60 years old, and while the rubber coating on the mil spec wire is good, it isn't that good.

[BCA]

I stock all of the Douglas connectors, shells, terminals, wire by the foot at quite reasonable prices compared to most suppliers. Everything you need to make a harness to original specifications. PM me with your snail mail details and I'll send a detailed list. You don't need a crimper since the terminals and military wire are both silver plated and solder easily. I also sell complete harnesses, but as Rob mentioned they can be pricey but after you try to make your own from scratch and buy all the connectors, correct number tags and special non-adhesive tape you'll appreciate the value in a properly made harness.
It is a fools game to try to repair or patch 1952 wiring (the 1968-71 CDN2&3 harnesses have enough life to do local repairs). Also when you have a harness freshly made then you can decide to upgrade to double brake/tail lights or full integral turn signals.
... Brian

[BCA]

As a side note I checked the crimper auction mentioned by Rob. Those used crimpers will probably go for $25-30 but his shipping to Canada is $30.43 (and no drop shipping to your border mail box according to his conditions!). Stick to soldering unless you make a lot of harnesses!

[rob love]

Brian
The C-24 tool is what we used to order in the military to replace the cheaper stamped steel one which was supplied through the system. The military issue one was not heavy enough to crimp properly....rather it would kind of bend and fold over itself.

There are many other sellers of that tool on ebay, have a look at completed auctions while looking up "C-24 tool"......not sure why the seller has such an aversion to shipping to the border. I see his shipping rate is $30 to Canada. Seems expensive and then one pays the extra $10 service charge to customs/Canada Post just to write the bill for the tax. I paid more today for a $75 parcel on the service fee than I paid in the tax. I think I'll stick with US sellers who will ship to my border service.

I always preferred to solder and crimp, but one or the other should suffice.

I haven't seen your prices on the pieces lately, but the trends that I have been seeing in the US seem to make scratch building quite prohibitive. But I am a fan of that wire....all of the wire under that mil spec number has some of the nicest insulation coating available.

[D Broughton]

Wow, I have defiantly found the right group of guys for info and perhaps parts I will send my home e-mail to you, Brian thanks.
Regarding the crimper I have a hydraulic crimper for electrical connections but this may be different in its finished crimped size. Will have to study the old connections more. As for soldering I have a good commercial unit that will do a good job of that. So now it's up to the price of parts and the fun of saying I rebuilt the harness myself. Or saying why the H$ll didn't I buy the harness!
Anyhow thanks for your comments
Darren

[rob love]

The hydraulic crimper may work. You want a crimp that comes evenly from all sides so as not to distort the terminal.