|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Iltis Alternator Problems
Hey guys, I have 4 Iltis jeeps, 2 for parts and 2 that runs. Well at least they ran long enough to get off the transporting trailer....
One of them has an over voltage production that i can get to lower. I've bought a new alternator (at a great expense) but even the new one over charges the batteries at 32+ volts (I've shut down the engine at 32 volts) The batteries are fully charged with a battery charger so the alternator shouldn't have to work so hard. I have the service manual in which it just says to "turn the adjusting screw counter-clock wise to reduce the voltage" but all that does is buying me a few more seconds before the voltage reaches 32v. I've cleaned up the battery terminal and even redid some of cable ends, but still no change. And i'm out of ideas. Reading through this forum i saw a lot of people here with extensive knowledge on Iltis so maybe someone has seen this type of problem before. The other one has a constant idling voltage of 24 volt (23.5 when fully loaded) so I'll try one of those "full-fielded output voltage test" tomorrow... Thanks for any help |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I Had a similar issue the alt would occasionally over charge. I also had a faulty head lamp light switch it worked but would drop out on over load when the headlights were turned on. The Alt Over load had no corelation at all to whether the head lights were on or off. When I changed the switch the Alt over charge issue vanished.
Matthew |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
90% of the over voltage problems that I experienced on the Iltis were due to poor connections. Loose terminals at the batteries would cause the alternator to over compensate and in the end would boil the batteries and fry the alternator. Make sure the cables are clean and tight at the batteries. Another potential problem area is the main connection at the starter. It acts as a junction for a number of wires. If this is loose, it also results in an over voltage problem. You can also check the connections at the master switch. Also, a bad battery (or two) can cause the over voltage problem. Check the batteries cell condition with a hydrometer; all cells should be equal within 20 points of each other. A single bad cell can cause the problems you are describing. Hydrometers are available at Cdn tire for under $10. If a cell is bad, the battery must be replaced, and on a 24 volt system, both batteries should be of relatively equal condition.
As an aside, there was a small bridge on the replacement alternators that also cause a bit of a problem. It was found that the vehicles could be started without the master switch if this bridge was allowed to remain. The bridge ran from the positive stud on the alternator over to the field (IIRC). |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
The alternator is not your problem, If i can produce voltage 32v it because the regulator is telling it to produce that much. Your regulator is the problem, try a different regulator and set it to charge at 27-28v
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Agreed that if it's charging, just the regulator portion can be changed, but if two different alternators are doing the same thing, and the adjustment won't work, then one should be looking for an external problem. Mind you, it would not be the first time someone installed a red herring (a bad alternator to replace a bad alternator).
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I just went through the same troubles (sporadic overcharging).
After checking all the grounds, finally removed the alternator and regulator and asked a local alt/gen repair shop to test. Bottom line, after testing the reg was found to be faulty and was replaced, with no troubles since. Cost was $140.00 taxes in. The best advice to offer you is to send the unit to a repair shop for testing. Would have saved me some time and frustration! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Intermittent overcharging
I’m trying to solve an intermittent overcharging in my Iltis. Two questions: the pivot bracket is hard to access. I see a nut at the rear end, but do you have to remove the front guard plate to access another bolt at the front end of the alternator bracket? Secondly, having removed the voltage regulator from the alternator, is there a trick to compressing the “Jack-in-the-Box” brush springs in order to replace the regulator?
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
In the front timing cover there is a access hole and it you use a 6mm Allen key as its a cap head bolt. as for the brushes there is a small hole in the back of the brush holder so you would install the brushes and the springs then push them down and then you would insert a small piece of wire across both of them to a small hole on the other side to hold the brushes down until you install the regulator than remove the wire once you feel the regulator sitting on top of the wire, See pics. Hope this helps.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Thank you Dave, now clear as a bell. I did check the Iltis maintenance manual and couldn’t find anything that deals with these issues. .... Brian
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Stuart, Don't know how I missed those details. I'm not a fan of the style of the later Canadian Manuals or for that matter the later US TM's. I always appreciated the clarity of the 1940'-1950's American TM's. ..... Brian
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
undecharge
slightly different issue..suddenly undercharging around 20 22v at idle barely 24 at higher revs
Any ideas on problem and solution? thanks
__________________
I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips, Straining upon the start. The game's afoot! |
|
|