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  #1  
Old 08-10-12, 18:55
Casey B's Avatar
Casey B Casey B is offline
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Question Leaking seals 53 M38A1

Have seal issues on rear diff and rear output shaft of transfer case. I am not too worried about the rear diff drip...and the proceedure looks pretty simple.

The rear output shaft of the transfer case is soaking the park brake assembly.

I took the park brake assembly apart after refilling my now empty transfer case. (I wondered why the oil stopped dripping...it was empty!) With the drive shaft off it didn't leak. Once back on you guessed it. So have to change the rear seal.

Is it close to the same proceedure to change this seal as it is to change a diff seal?

The diff seal although I have done it seems pretty easy.

Do you have to remove the speedo cable before removing the seal?
With the drum for the park brake installed same as rear end remove nut with impact gun line it up with marks made before removal?

Anyone know the torques of the rear diff nut and the rear output shaft?

I have heard you can just mark it and tighten the nut to the mark?

Any help will be great!
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Old 08-10-12, 19:27
rob love rob love is offline
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Before removing the nut on the rear diff, see if you have any wobble of the shaft, indicating loose bearings. The nut (in combination with the bearings, cones and shims) is what holds all that together. If it is good, then installing the nut to the same position will be OK. Impacts are not the correct way to install that nut, but most do it that way. Correct torque on a Dana 44 is about 170 pounds. There is no crush sleeve on this model of diff, so it is pretty simple. You may well need a flange holding tool to get that correct torque.

Also, keep in mind that oil can also leak from under the nut washer. When re-installing, a shot of RTV under the washer will help seal the area.

Seems to me you can remove the transfer case seal straight out the back of the bore. There are various seal pullers you can use for this, pry bars will also work. You can also drill a couple small holes in the face of the seals, install some screws into the holes, then pry the screws.
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Old 08-10-12, 22:48
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Casey B Casey B is offline
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thanks Rob...RTV? silicone?
not familiar with th acronym.
The rear shaft of the transfer case looks similar to the rear pinion of the diff.

I know I have to pull it and the p brake drum at the same time.

I am guessing check for the play in that shaft as well as the pinion shaft of the diff?

I am also guessing the seal comes out and goes in the same way as the diff seal?

Thanks again Rob!
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Old 09-10-12, 00:06
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Default oil leak

Hi Casey, as Rob stated looks like you missed something , make a visit to Canadian Tire and get some Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket , comes in a small white plastic bottle with a silver top , has a brush in it , when doing the install of a oil seal you must make sure your surfaces are CLEAN of oil and grease, put a skim of sealer on the housing where the seal will sit and install the seal, next step is your drive flange , again all parts must be CLEAN ,make sure there is no deep groove in the drive flange if so replace it or use a speedy sleeve, use sealer on the splines of the pinion and flange and install flange, I think this is your present oil leak, also when installing bolts into housings such as tranmission or transfer case you must also use sealer on the bolts as oil will leak out through the threads as it does on the pinion splines,much of this info are old guy tricks that you will need to learn, do you have the books for your vehicle ? I think you need to spend more time reading them , hope all this helps you,
regards Frank
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Old 09-10-12, 00:13
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Casey B Casey B is offline
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Thanks Frank
Not many if any books so helps to use the forum...ex military so never learned to read anyway was always told what to do...Hahha!
I get that I am to coat the parts and will clean with brake cleaner to get them clean and dry but wanted to know if the transfer case seal is removed and reinstalled the same as the pinion seal in the diff?

Also are there various sizes for the speedy sleeve if so what size is correct for my drive?
thanks again for the advice.
casey
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Old 09-10-12, 01:09
rob love rob love is offline
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RTV means room temperature vulcanizing. It is silicone.

For the speed sleeve you have to measure your damaged flange. They match the sleeves to the size, although there are different widths. The sleeves are not cheap, but come with an installer.

The rear transfer case seal comes out the same way as the diff.

You are not in the army any more. Buy some manuals. They are worth their weight in gold. Best manual you will buy is the Canadian M38A1 Cdn2 manual.
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Old 09-10-12, 02:23
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Got it thanks again Rob
I re enlisted and am goin back in Rob hahaha! swearing in this Wednesday! ... but will look for that manual. It will work for the CDN as well right?
I see that Brian Asbury has some. And it is not the operators manulal but rather the repair.(maintenance manual) If you have the number of it that would make it easier to find...thanks.

Thanks again I'll get back under later tonight have everything out and ready for the nut extraction, seal etc. oil drained so no mess either.
Let you know how it goes.
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Last edited by Casey B; 09-10-12 at 02:53.
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  #8  
Old 09-10-12, 04:46
mel gabel mel gabel is offline
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Default Transfer seal

Others have referred to a speedy sleeve, which is what I used to address the same problem you appear to be having. It was relatively easy to install and corrected the leak.

The sleeve fits over the yoke of the drive shaft that slides onto the transfer shaft. (Remove the parking brake drum and the nut that holds the yoke onto the shaft.) I took the yoke with me and the auto parts supplier measured it to provide me with the appropriate size for the sleeve.
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Old 10-10-12, 01:42
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Roger that Mel
I will get the yoke off and take er down and match the seal as well.Thank you!
Casey
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Old 10-10-12, 04:00
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Consider filing ridges hi marks....

Hi Casey

When you have a worn ridge smoothing down the ridges with emery paper or a flat file will help you install the sleeve...... I usually instal the yoke in a wood lathe 3 jaw chuck and spin at low speed while holding a flat file on the surface....finish with mid grit 3 M pad...... then you are aready to press the Speedy sleeve in place .... the sleeves are about the same price as a new bearing but works wonders. Did my T case and tranny......

Bob
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  #11  
Old 11-10-12, 06:08
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Thanks Bob! Good call will take it out this weekend and check to see what is there...all great words of advice...
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