C8 progress in Texas - Page 10

George McKenzie · #**271** 21-12-10, 17:29

I saw this done by cutting a grove in both edges of the plank and then a square rod of wood was hamered in the grove in both boards when you join them together instead of a tongue and a grove.Raw linseed oil 2/3 and 1/3 turpentine is a good treatment for wood .

David DeWeese · #**272** 02-01-11, 16:35

Thanks George for the wood treatment formula.
Had a problem with the strength of the rear body in that the tailgate opening was very hard to keep square. You can lean back on the sides and it will bend.
There is a support under the tailgate area to help stop this on this rear body,(photo 1), but uses only a few small rivets for strengthening the tailgate opening.
Checked my available photos and found that apparently there was a problem with the design of this area of the rear body. Photo 2 shows what looks like a field modification to try and strengthen this area, and photo 3 shows even another attempt at beefing-up the rear tailgate opening.
After some head banging, I decided to make sort of a "hybrid" rear area using the lower section from photo 1 and the plate steel brackets from photo 3.
Not exactly original for a C8 Duple rear body, but much stronger!

Photos courtesy of Mike Kelly's CD and Tony Smith.
Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #**273** 03-01-11, 01:39

Hi,
Got lucky today while searching through a scrap pile and found a good size piece of vintage tread plate. Have seen this type used through the 40's on trucks and other equipment.
Used part of it to make the rear step plate on the C8 body floor. Looks much better than the modern stuff...
Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #**274** 10-01-11, 02:42

Hi,
Spent the weekend constructing the tailgate and hinge hardware for the rear body. More tongue and groove lumber had to be cut and a 3/4 inch strap steel frame also made up to trim the edges of the tailgate. Still have to add the counter-sunk wood screws around the framework..
Hinges and straps were then constructed. Will add the angle iron to the inside of tailgate and the carriage bolts next weekend as the weather turned cold and forced me into a warm house for the rest of the day.
Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #**275** 17-01-11, 15:35

Hi,
More small parts had to me made from the rear body tailgate. I'm sure the original pieces were cast, but this was the best I could do with hardware store materials and normal shop tools.
The latch is kind of clever as gravity makes the pin get tighter as you wiggle the tailgate.
Doesn't look like much progress, but what you see is is the result of a day of trial-and-error fabrication.
Oh well, slow progress is better than no progress.

Thanks, David

gordon · #**276** 17-01-11, 16:02

That's at least as well made as the original was David, maybe better.

When you get a coat of paint on the whole thing it'll all come together.

Alex Blair (RIP) · #**277** 17-01-11, 19:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by David DeWeese

Hi,
More small parts had to me made from the rear body tailgate. I'm sure the original pieces were cast, but this was the best I could do with hardware store materials and normal shop tools.
The latch is kind of clever as gravity makes the pin get tighter as you wiggle the tailgate.
Doesn't look like much progress, but what you see is is the result of a day of trial-and-error fabrication.
Oh well, slow progress is better than no progress.

Thanks, David

David ..your workmanship is excellent and I really enjoy the progress pictures..I admire you ability to think your way through your parts manufacturing process..
You were born a hundred years too late and would have made a million bucks as an old time blacksmith and wagon repair expert..You would have have a yard full of buggy's and wagons to repair..
maybe you have a bunch of modern buggy's to restore..you do very nice work and I admire your ability...and I have been a Mechanic for 45 years so know what is involved in what you are doing..
Paint, as Gordon said ,will set your work off as a masterpiece.

David DeWeese · #**278** 14-03-11, 04:03

Hi,
Thanks for the very kind words, Gordon and Alex!
Got back to work this weekend on the C8 making the front storage boxes. Only had time to make one, and used the same type tongue and groove lumber and materials as the rest of the rear body so far.
Size of box is probably not correct, but was determined by the diameter of the fenders available.
Had to do a makeover on some hardware store hinges and a latch. Couldn't make a gravity latch work here as a drip channel will go directly above it...

Does anyone have a spare POL can they are willing to sell? Doesn't have to be perfect or even able to hold liquid, as long as it looks the part. Still have to make the holder for one on the LHS.
Thanks, David

david moore · #**279** 09-04-11, 04:45

David
Time old question I know - but where did you get those good looking tires? Much better than the Israeli implement tires that I have!

David DeWeese · #**280** 09-04-11, 15:14

Hi David,
A helpful young man named Eric at Carroll Tire here in Dallas,(800-442-1629), managed to get a few of these into the US for me.
Probably a one-shot deal, but there are still eight of them in a warehouse in Georgia that I didn't buy.
Carroll Tire is a wholesale outlet, but if you could get a tire dealer in your area to inquire, I'm sure something could be worked out...
Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #**281** 18-04-11, 03:00

Hi,
Got back in the saddle this weekend on the C8 restoration and had a question about these storage boxes. They came down to Texas with the C8 along with a lot of cab 13 parts and a rusty 2B1 rear body. These boxes appear to fit under the rear of the 2B1 body.
Their inside dimensions are 13 1/4" long x 10 3/4 wide x 6 1/4 tall.
Would this be a purpose-built box to hold a 2 gallon POL can, or are they just generic storage boxes?
Thanks, David

Bob Carriere · #**282** 18-04-11, 03:09

Good boxes there David.

A bit of sand blasting or wire wheel and perfect. They were intended for one 2 gal. POW can each. I have heard some people refer to them as chain lockers but I think that is inaccurate.

Bob C.

David DeWeese · #**283** 18-04-11, 03:53

Thanks, Bob!
Now I can actually have two original pieces of CMP equipment installed on my rear body.
Will sandblast the pair and make a new door for the missing one, install them and proceed.
Thanks again for the info.
David

David DeWeese · #**284** 22-05-11, 16:38

Hi,
Had a free day to make the missing door, hinges and latch for one of my storage boxes.

Were small padlocks used on these to secure the doors, or some sort of pin/clip?

Thanks, David

gordon · #**285** 22-05-11, 16:52

These things always tended to be issued with padlocks, which probably walked within five minutes of them being issued.

Gordon

rob love · #**286** 22-05-11, 17:58

They were secured with padlocks, often the corbin brand. The US military still use a similar padlock today marked US.

I have seen padlocks still hanging on the bins of CMPs 60 years after they were released. I have also found the odd one under the fuel tanks of the Bren carriers. While I can't confirm or dispute Gordon's guess, I can tell you that even today, the padlocks are part of the equipment checklist of a vehicle, and when you are issued the vehicle, you are also issued the appropriate number of padlocks. I can also tell you that the army cuts thousands of them every year when guys forget the keys at home, or the guy with the key is off that day that they need to get into the vehicle lockers.

David DeWeese · #**287** 23-05-11, 02:22

Thanks Gordon and Rob for the information!
Looked around on-line today,(slow day), for some matching vintage-looking padlocks for the storage lockers. Not much luck.
Found these on ebay tonight with 8 minutes left on the auction and pulled the trigger.
They're U.S. marked, but solid brass, keyed alike and with brass chains, so...
Thanks again, David

David DeWeese · #**288** 30-10-11, 01:48

Hi,
Finally completed my reproduction/replica British Duple rear body for the C8, (and finished almost one year to the day I started construction on it).

Thanks, David

Mike Kelly · #**289** 30-10-11, 02:18

David
The work has paid off.... can you make one for me

Excellent .

aj.lec · #**290** 30-10-11, 07:21

Nice work David

Looking good overall

gordon · #**291** 30-10-11, 09:07

A very nice body there, but I see my favourite Dodge dump truck has a new pair of suicide doors too.

Is the Dodge next on the list? I still have to pick up those parts from Belgium but that was delayed for the best possible reason - too busy at work.

A rear hood for the Chev too?

Gordon

Alex van de Wetering · #**292** 30-10-11, 13:05

Very nice David!

alex

David DeWeese · #**293** 30-10-11, 15:49

Thanks all for the kind words !
This rear body has to be the most labor-intensive version I could have chosen to build for this truck, but I've always liked this type.

I will say that without the great help and CD plans from Mike Kelly, building this body would not have been possible. Thanks, Mike!

Hi, Gordon. Yes, the Dodge is next in line. Been locating parts for it here and there, but some of them are not too pretty. Had to piece together a pair of fenders after some hot-rodding kid took a plasma cutter to them (photo).

Got that butchered Radio Commmand Car re-joined and sold also...
Thanks, David

gordon · #**294** 30-10-11, 16:44

,,, certainly looks better in the AFTER shot than it does in the BEFORE one David.

That '34 will be a nice truck, given time, but I expect you'll be looking for an uncomplicated home for it when the time comes. If only my lottery tickets would kick in.

Anything left to find for the Chev ? there's none of that stuff round here. Only ever seen one CMP in Scotland that wasn't a 13 cab and that was an 11 or 12 cab Ford that Tom Bewick got many years back.

David DeWeese · #**295** 31-10-11, 03:45

Gordon,
Nothing needed now for the C8 that I can't source here from domestic vintage Chev truck suppliers, except for an extra 13" wheel as a spare. Am going to try and make a spare wheel that looks the part from a couple of wide 13" Corvair rims that were given to me. It won't ever touch the road, so.....

I can't imagine a better home for this '34 Dodge than in your garage....only thing is that you have to finish the T-36 Iron Fireman first!

Thanks, David

gordon · #**296** 31-10-11, 09:03

I have to finish the TD 20 one ton, the VC3 half ton, and the WD21 one ton first, THEN the T-36, and then take a rest before even thinking of anything else. I do actually have the Sno-Cat and various trailers complete, but all my completed Dodges have been sold so it is probably some kind of defense mechanism.

I've no idea what markings you could put on the Chev though.

David DeWeese · #**297** 01-11-11, 06:04

I will admit to knowing very little if anything about putting the correct vehicle markings on this truck.
Thanks, David

edit- did a search on this forum this morning and found all the information I needed, plus some... Did have a question on the placement of the division formation sign, though. Is left or right side correct?

David DeWeese · #**298** 05-11-11, 03:41

Hi,
Was going to weld up the extra holes in my hood until I noticed some type of fixture in that location on the early C15 in my last post.
Is this a latch, or?....
Thanks, David

Bob Carriere · #**299** 05-11-11, 04:18

Hi David.

Mine is a C15a but I do not remember those holes..... will check in the barn tomorrow morning.

From what I remember my cab 11 has holes on the front corners.....for the two wing nuts...... the small panel is held by a spring type clip at the back and two wing nuts at each forward corners...

Bob

Bob Carriere · #**300** 05-11-11, 04:38

Found this old picture David.

Taken some years ago before dismanteling my cab 11.

My hood was missing and Don Dingwall gave me a NOS hood cover.

My truck had Jeep type hood clips holding the previous hood in place.

The two holes for the wing nut headed bolts are visible on the LH and RH corner of the hood cover.

There are so few cab 11 around to compare..... maybe in sunny Australia.

Bob