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  #1711  
Old 25-09-16, 20:43
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Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kelly View Post
You know this already. Before you do any sewing , throw the canvas over the washing line outside, give it a good soaking and let the sun dry it , it will shrink about 1" - 2" all round .
Thanks Mike! I didn't know that. A very important piece of info to know.
If weather is fine next weekend, I'll give it a good hosing!
Might go back and visit the disposals store again this week, and see if the bigger tarps by same manufactrer may have wider single panels, so I can avoid the join down middle of the roof.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1712  
Old 09-10-16, 11:13
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Default CMP rear window canvas curtain

I'm about half way through the canvas curtain for rear window of my green truck.
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Main part is finished, and the roll-up tabs on back are attached. The steel bar fits the bottom pocket OK. What isn't OK is my sewing. I sew like I weld. Terribly. Took second attempts on two stitch runs, both of which had to be unpicked stitch by stitch. It's a good incentive to get it right first time from then on!
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Speaking of dodgy. Look at how straight the top steel piece isn't! It is original, and the joining of two short pieces is obvious. They had to elongate some holes to make it fit the piece behind it. Classic WW2 bodge, to 'keep em rolling'. The two tabs seen above photo are not attached yet. The canvas I used was very coarse and looks right. It did stretch in certain ways, and once that was anticipated I had a better time of working with it. Freys very easily though, so I was grateful that the plans for this piece (supplied by a good friend and fellow MLU chap) called for mostly double layer seams, one way or another.
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The metal plates that sandwich the diagonal canvas tabs are painted and drying. I may place them next weekend, but will also be attending some duties in readiness for travelling to Bandiana early the following week.

Incidentally, I do believe I may have wasted my money on an industrial sewing machine, because this entire job was done on my Wifes standard duty Janome tabletop machine. There were seven layers of canvas in places, and her machine just chugged away without missing a beat. Can't imagine ever needing to sew eight or more layers in one place, so the Janome might get the job of stitching the sunshine roof cover in a few weeks time!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 09-10-16 at 11:26.
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  #1713  
Old 11-10-16, 13:06
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Tony Baker
 
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Default CMP rear window canvas curtain.

Courtesy of unsatisfactory results first time, a new pair of the corner tabs for my rear window curtain were made this evening.
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The first ones I made, like the originals, had a single fold hem only (see left side, following photo). I fully expected real problems with that at some point, and besides, they looked REALLY horrible when folded back to expose underside. Yuck! The one on right hand side of same photo is my second type.
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The side view (right hand photo above) illustrates the increased thickness of second attempt. These are basically two like the first ones, sewn back to back and with diagonal stitching for added strength.
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After a brief search, I found the eyelets I had bought some time ago for this specific job. They will also be used for the canvas part of the sunshine cab roof.

I urgently need to see what the springs look like that pull the corner tabs down and laterally, holding the canvas curtain taut and stopping any flapping around. I have the right angle brackets that hold the other end of the spring to rear cab panel, but have never (so far as I know) seen an example of the springs themselves. If you have a photo of these, I would be most grateful to see it.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1714  
Old 11-10-16, 13:30
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default sew

Neat sewing there Tony

These are original WW2 examples of sewing, a GMH side curtain I have. The sewing is pretty crappy
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Last edited by Mike Kelly; 11-10-16 at 13:36.
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  #1715  
Old 16-10-16, 11:48
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Tony Baker
 
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Crappy alright, Mike. Mine isn't really much better, when you look closely.
Guess that makes my sewing standard 'authentic WW2 quality'. With quality being the little used word to describe something quite shite.

Starting last night, I had a bit more play with canvas and my Wifes sewing machine. Some weeks ago I bought a second hand bookshelf to store my current battalion of R C tanks, and last evening I started making a canvas roll-up front cover, designed to keep the dust off the contents. In the process, I experimented with a range of techniques and processes, conceived mainly to show me what things I can get away with. Oh boy, I sure made some discoveries. Not all were positive experiences. I previously mentioned that my Wifes little sewing machine can sew 7 layers of canvas without problems. Add another layer, and I did get problems. Lots of em. Eight layers was just too much for it to handle, and this was made quite clear when I started hearing some very strange pings and clunks. The crescendo was when I managed to shatter a needle, but fortunately my Wife was outside at the time and I quickly replaced the remains with a fresh one, before any lasting damage was sustained.........to me.
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The cover is approx 3ft wide by 6ft in length. I wanted to try sewing in a length of rope at the top, just to see if it would work. It did, but not to satisfaction. Once I'm using my industrial machine it should be heaps better result, because I have bought correct piping foot for this technique. On my Wifes machine last night, things went badly. I couldn't get close enough to the rope for a good result. Still, at least I know what went wrong.
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To seal the cover I have sewn some Velcro down each side. If you are planning to do this, unless you have an industrial machine, sew the 'fluffy' Velcro piece, NOT the other half with the hard plastic hooks. It's really annoying to sew, and will catch your thread occasionally. I thoutht I would be smart, and used an extremely strong thread. It sounded like a good idea, but is entirely wasted on a standard domestic machine. The thread required adjustable tension increased to limit available, or the sewing looked loose. Problem was, although the thread was super strong, it did start to shear away when travelling through the needle eye. This occured even when speed was low. Once again, probably more an issue Bourne out of my choice of machine, not the thread itself. When I went back to using standard duty thread, things actually went better overall. Go figure! I would want that strong thread when I make the sunshine roof cover thougj.

I did get a little better at making seams straight, though I am still not pleased, and am continuing to improve pining in a way that keeps material in place. One by one the pins are removed as the material moves through the machine. I guess what I'm saying is simply, practice man, practice. Ironically, that's the same piece of advice a Sydney local once gave me when I was lost and asked him how I could get to the opera house! Now that I think of it, he MAY have misunderstood what I meant.

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Oh, and I'm also hoping to purchase this Land Rover Defender from my inlaws estate. It will come up nicely in camo green.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1716  
Old 16-10-16, 13:29
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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Default Tank

Your mention of your RC tank collection reminded me of this mornings offering on TV , Combat dealers .

The short wide chap , the boss , was browsing at Kevin Wheatcrofts collection and he bought a small scale model of a WW2 German tank ..cost 4.5K pounds. The model is a genuine prototype built at the factory for the designers/engineers as a concept . He also showed us a 1939 Mercedes , one of a small batch made for Hitler's own fleet , Wheatcroft said the car is worth around 8 million pounds . Armour plated floor, 4 inch thick windscreen and other special things like a supercharged 7 litre engine . Racks for sub machine guns and other delights .
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1942-45 Jeep salad
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  #1717  
Old 16-10-16, 14:57
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I saw that too. That chap has a splendid collection, doesnt he.
Bit overly dramatic for my taste, but thats show business.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1718  
Old 20-10-16, 08:15
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Default Greetings from Bandiana, Victoria.

Well, we're back in Victoria again, for what we expect will be the last time. Tomorrow morning is the Marchout Ceremony that will signify the formal end to Bryces training period at Bandiana, in northern Victoria. His next posting will be back in Queensland, so there will be no further visits to this part of the world, attractive though it may be. We arrived yesterday morning, and had to leave home at 0330hrs to be at the airport for first flight of the day.
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With time to kill yesterday afternoon, we went and took a look at the Hume dam wall. The weir was letting water out in volume, and the lake is completely full, as opposed to 3/4 dry it has been every other time we've seen it until now, and follows considerable very recent rainfall. The other result of that rain was to ruin our initial plans to drive down from QLD, like I did last year when I brought Bryces car to him. Too many flooded areas in NSW to risk the drive, unfortunately.

Met up with Bryce yesterday evening, and gave him his belated birthday presents. One of which was the Selk Bag wearable sleeping bag (in bushland camouflage) I had imported especially from USA. Bryce had seen one of these worn by a British serviceman who, for some reason, went on a bush manoeuvres with his group.......in winter. Bryce was taken with fact he was the only one NOT freezing when in the cold wind at night. Now Bryce won't have to shiver either. I think he likes it.

With time on our hands again this morning, we drove to Yackandandah and Beechworth.
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Beechworth has this old Service Station, that ironically doesn't sell fuel, and I'm still unsure if it's a tourist attraction or a real mechanical repairs place. If you are on a diet, or have dental issues, stay the hell away from the sweets shop in Beechworth. It is a sugar nirvana, that has anything ever made in the way of candy. I type this as I sit here scoffing chocolate coated ginger. Ginger is good for helping an upset stomach....and chocolate CAUSES an upset stomach, so the two should cancel each other out, right! We'll see in about 15 min.

Several weeks ago, Bryce was telling me about a CMP cabin he had seen sitting in the yard of an industrial property in Wodonga. Today I went looking for it.
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Amazing where these things show up, isn't it? Apart from a few moderate sized indentations, this lil beauty should come up nicely, and it is quite complete.

Tomorrow morning, early, we are to be granted access to Bryces base for the first time, to attend the ceremony and take a tour of his training facility. Apart from the ceremony itself, no photos will be taken, but it will be an exciting time for us to see where our Son has been receiving his training for the past 18 months. When we depart the base, so will Bryce. Tomorrow is his final day there also. We hope to spend some time together before we all head off, Bryce to his first 'on the job' training, and us to airport for the journey home again.

Travelling down this way on a number of occasions since we first joined Bryce for his Recruit Marchout from Kapooka in January, 2014, we have had the great fortune and pleasure of meeting several of the MLU folks who call this part of our country home. That, and the humbling experience of seeing our own Son march with his unit in the parade commemorating the ANZAC Centenary in 2015, are the highlights of our visits down here.

Our special thanks go to Robert Pearce, who made a significant journey with his own Son, to be with us for Bryces Kapooka Marchout in January 2015. Rob then made the trip again the following day, allowing us time to actually introduce him to our boy. That made a special occasion even better. Thankyou Rob!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1719  
Old 21-10-16, 00:23
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Congratulations Bryce, onward and upward. With the birthday present in hand you could do a cultural exchange to NZ next winter.
Tony I understand how you feel having Bryce closer to home, Greg is three hours away and although we don't see each other much it is nice knowing that we can easily visit each other for significant events.
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  #1720  
Old 21-10-16, 12:36
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Yes Rob, I agree wholeheartedly.

Today was a rather exciting, and moving day. We were met at the barracks gate at 0630hrs, and granted access to the base, under escort by our Son. After nearly two decades of being responsible for his behaviour, finally the roles were reversed under quite significant and stringent circumstances. An irony not lost on me. I'm glad I didn't follow through with an earlier threat to wear farmers overalls and gumboots!
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The graduation ceremony was splendid. In total, there were 10 members who were graduands, and once all ten were called to the front of the ranks, they were individually called to step forward and receive their certificate, and beret or cap (RAAF members received cap). Several graduates were additionally awarded the Senior Instructors Achievement Award for excellence in their studies and practical assessments. That award is given to any student that achieves an overall result in excess of 95%, and I'm extremely proud to say our Son was one of those recipients! We weren't aware of this fact prior to the ceremony. When Bryce was presented with that certificate, composure was very nearly lost by the author. I must add, the parade drill was exceptional. My Wife took vast majority of the still photography, while I took video footage, all 4.5GB of it. In reviewing that footage this evening, the sharp note of scores of soldiers boots striking the ground in unison, features with every manoeuvre. Very dramatic and always impressive!
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The ceremony also included the changeover of the Wings S.M, with S.M Griffin handing over, and giving a short speech to the Wing members, indicating his pride in those under his command. I would very much have liked to shake his hand and thank him for his guidance and support, but unfortunately the opportunity didn't present. At the conclusion of the parade, we had the pleasure of a guided tour through the Vehicle Training Wing training facility. It is a splendid establishment. I believe a training environment has a significant impact on the standard of learning, and having now seen the facility for myself, I can fully understand why Bryce has done so well! I know he will always have fond memories of his time in Bandiana.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1721  
Old 21-10-16, 13:23
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To polish off a wonderful day, I met a very nice fellow who has a huge inventory of ex military disposals stock, and allowed me to paw and drool through his wares. I've met so many interesting people in past few years, and I rarely seem to have enough time available to just sit and chat with them. The gentleman I met today is a point in case. I could have spent hours talking about mutual interests and hearing his life experiences.
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The above item is a aiming/ranging scale of some sort, for a Vickers MG. I didn't set out to find one, but having seen it today, I was taken by the detail in manufacture, and thought it would be a good souvenir of the day, and the trip overall.
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No idea of manufacture date or exact usage, but I'm sure someone here can enlighten me. It only measures roughly 6" by 3" in main dimensions, and has further information etched onto it's sides and the reverse of each slide. Most intriguing thing is the piece of string attached, which has a small ferrule on the end, and is exactly 24" in length. The length is stated in a location on the device itself, and is indicated for "Graticule Use", whatever that is!
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Any additional info on this item, guys?
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1722  
Old 21-10-16, 23:15
Dinty Dinty is offline
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Congratulations to you all, it would have been an emotional time watching the parade cheers Dennis
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  #1723  
Old 28-10-16, 13:58
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Arrived home from Victoria on Wednesday. Bryce arrived at his new posting this afternoon. He drove the 1,500+km. His first serious road trip, now completed.

Speaking of road trips, and back on CMP track. About 45 minutes ago I returned home from a 770km round trip to see CMP wheels take the military tread tyres that have proven their better of me. Having now seen this done, and (more importantly) taken photos of the process, I believe I can recant the finer points with reasonable accuracy. More pleasingly, I've got 3 of my nice green 16" wheels shod with fresh tyres, in back of my trailer. One more to go, then I'm ready to put the lot on the grey truck.

Bearing in mind the fact I left home at 0730hrs, and returned around 2100hrs, now isn't best time for gathering my thoughts into some form of coherence. I will download the photos from my phone tomorrow morning and offer the technique, step by step, tomorrow afternoon. Apologies for dragging this out another day, but I'm tired, my arse is still numb from hours of driving, and my back hurts. A couple of strong pain killers and a good nights sleep will fix all that though.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1724  
Old 28-10-16, 22:58
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This is how my tyres were fitted to the CMP rims. I must stress the importance of attention to detail and technique. Safety should be first concern, so care must be considered at all times.

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First, apply some talcum powder to inner surface of the tyre and all over the tube. Fit tube and liner into tyre. Then brush a liberal amount of suitable tyre fitting grease onto rim halves, from the curve all the way down to where the tyre bead will eventually seat. Apply grease to tyre bead and visible portion of the tube liner. The liner will need to slip freely away as the rim halves come together. We used a lanolin based grease that was easily obtained from local automotive store. "Rubber Grease" was mentioned on the list of suitable uses, on label of the grease tub, so we knew it wouldn't damage rubber. I bought 2 tubs, each being 500grms, and we didn't even use one full tub.
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Place tyre and tube over the inner half of wheel, facing upwards. In this photo, you can see the talc powder that got over exterior of the tyre. The tyre seated easiest to inboard wheel half, probably because it was already sitting squarely on the wheel, thanks to the flat surface beneath. Starting now, and at every stage of the fitting, check the liner and tube are located evenly around the tyre and not sticking out anywhere more than should be. This is VITALLY IMPORTANT!
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Place the outer half of the wheel over the assembly, in position for the wheel nut holes to align correctly. On some rims, the studs for joining wheel halves were slightly longer, and a CMP wheel nut could be started onto at least one stud, sometimes more than one. Be careful NOT to tighten that/those nuts yet. You don't want to have one side compressed much more than the other! Using two (or more, if you prefer) lengths of thick threaded rod with nut welded to one end, push it through from beneath, with enough excess thread to get another nut (and washer first) on the upper end of the rod. Now, you can start CAREFULLY tightening the threads and whatever wheel nuts went on, in a manner to keep the top wheel half level as possible. You might already find considerable perch can be made at this stage, however it is vitally important to check between the wheel halves, to be absolutely certain the tube and liner are not becoming caught between the wheel halves. This is where the grease to the liner pays for itself. Don't tighten nuts too much at this point. A few revolutions of the nuts will suffice. My friend had a piece of steel which he would continually use to feed between the halves to gauge depth of the liner from the wheel centre edge. Choose something blunt that can poke the liner back in if you suspect it may be getting in the way. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the tool at correct depth needed to ensure liner is clear. Make a habit of checking this every step of the process, and check thoroughly all the way around the wheel. It may save you needing to replace a tube and liner, which is what will be required if you pinch the tube.
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Continue to tighten the threaded rods evenly, and at this stage you may get a fair few wheel nuts on. By now the tyre will start to be forced onto the wheel, but it may not go evenly. This is normal. Once all applicable nuts and threaded rod are tightened to the extent that risk of wheel halves seperation has been eliminated, you're just about ready to start inflating the tyre.
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There is one more step you should do before putting air into the tyre. REMOVE THE VALVE FROM THE TUBE. You'll find out why shortly. With valve removed, start inflating the tyre, but before you do, check the liner is out of the way again. If you are lucky, the wheel nuts may now have been tightened to the extent that you can't really get anything between the wheels halves. This is OK, provided you have been checking again and again as the nuts were tightened originally. If you DO still have room to check liner, please do so now.

To be continued...
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 28-10-16 at 23:05.
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  #1725  
Old 28-10-16, 23:03
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Good show......

Very good description of how to do it right.

Bob C
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  #1726  
Old 28-10-16, 23:51
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Start inflating the tyre, but do so slowly, and do not fully inflate. Pressure should be added in stages, encouraging the tyre bead to seat as you go. It is not unusual for most, but not all, of the bead to go into place with pressure of 10-15psi. If you see the bead begining to seat partially, STOP inflating, wait a little while and watch the unseated bead for signs of very slight movement. You can actually see and hear it moving, but you will need to pay close attention. If movement stops and no further progress after maybe 20-30 seconds, stop here and let the air out again.Releasing pressure at this point will give you chance to do two important things. One, by letting the air out again, the liner and tube will stop trying to 'herniate' between the rim halves (if there is still room enoigh to do so). Secondly, this is where wheel nuts can be tightened further. You may in fact find they can now be tightened very closely to completed torque, but they will always require final tightening with no pressure in the tube later.
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Once wheel nuts are tightened as much as possible, resume pressurising the tyre. This time pressure can increase to near amount required for road use. One tyre yesterday required close to 25psi before the last section of bead went into place.
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You don't need to increase pressure quickly, in fact it's probably best you don't. The tyre will seat the bead slowly at first, so let it do so at it's own pace. Just watch for movement, and add a little more pressure once movement has stopped for a while. Needless to say, it would be extremely unwise to place fingers between the rim and tyre while this process is happening, so I won't mention that! Make sure you have applied the grease liberally when you started, and keep the work area clean and free from rocks, pebbles, and other grit and contamination. You don't want any of that stuff to stick to the grease and get anywhere it can cause damage to tube at later stage.
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Eventually the last section of bead will move into place. Sometimes it will move there gently, other times it may make that last leap with a sudden pop. Who cares how it happens, so long as it does get there eventually.

You're not finished yet. Let the air out again. Hopefully you still have the valve off at this point. With no pressure in tyre, look carefully around the bead edge and check that it is fully seated all the way around. Turn the wheel over and check the rear side bead too. I'll bet it looks fine back there. It seems to seat well, compared to front side. It is possible that there is yet more movement to be achieved, and letting the air out this final time will show you any areas that require more work. If all looks even, tighten all 8 wheel half securing nuts. Now install the valve fully and reinflate to desired road use pressure. That's it....youre done!

I must REALLY stress importance of checking tube and liner are clear of the two wheel halves as you continue to bring them together. It would be quite easy to damage the tube and/or liner as you go. I know this because it's exactly what we did on one of my sets, and that's why I only have 3 of the 4 sets I need. The final one has now been rectified, but this was after I had departed for home, so I need to travel again soon to get the final one! Whatever. I'm just grateful to my friend for all the help he has given me with getting these damned things together. Tyres are still available if anyone needs any. I will be happy to pass on the gentlemans contact number, just send me a PM.

The above information is proved as a description of how my tyres were installed, and it may differ from your requirements. Whatever the case, common sense and forethought should proceed any attempt to duplicate this process.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1727  
Old 29-10-16, 09:09
Paul Dutton Paul Dutton is offline
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Reminds me of when I was a tyre fitter.
If we had an over inquisitive customer who insisted on standing next to you while doing their tyre and asking loads of questions, when all you wanted to do is strip the rim, fit and inflate tyre and refit, all in 10 mins, then onto next car.
We would 'extra soap' up that half of the bead pointing in the general direction of annoying customer and let the tyre POP onto the rim, satisfyingly splattering the customer!
God, what we did for entertainment back then!!!
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  #1728  
Old 29-10-16, 10:29
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Tony Baker
 
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I like the way you think, Paul!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1729  
Old 31-10-16, 12:16
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Tony Baker
 
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Default For Frank & Marc

Frank & Marc,

Here are the compressor photos I have at hand. Will continue looking for others, but the following are the sum total right now. If you have any specific questions, post them here. If I don't know the answer, someone will!

The pump should look like this one, and simply bolts onto side of the gearbox by removing a blanking plate.
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You use the same bolts which came off, and should only have to make a gasket. Oil for lubrication is shared with the gearbox. You will see in the closeup of the compressor crank, I was missing a bush between connecting rod and crank. If I remember correctly. I got one from my local bearing shop, and had to ream the inside to fit correctly.
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Let me /us know if you need specific photo of anything in particular.
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Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1730  
Old 11-11-16, 11:44
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Tony Baker
 
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The rivets to attach the two canvas tabs to my CMP rear curtain, have now arrived.
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In order to cover all bases, I have bought three different styles. One is 3mm thick shaft with flat head. The other two are 2.5mm thickness, with one of those having rounded head, the other flat. All three are copper, for ease of forming. I won't need them to be particularly strong. The two pieces of canvas will be invisibly sewn together, with that sewing being entirely (I hope) hidden beneath the metal plates that the rivets will hold together, with one each side of the curtain.
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In the interest of overkill, I also have a strong fabric glue that will be used as well.
The rivets were deliberately ordered in excess length. Once I determine how long they actually need to be, I'll whittle em down to size.

If for any reason I bollocks the job, by inability to form the rivets well, or causing damage to the metal joining plates, I have a backup plan. The fasteners for that plan are yet to arrive. Hopefully won't need those.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1731  
Old 20-11-16, 10:09
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Wanted to paint inside my cab roof today, but only got the seam sealer applied to applicable drip channels.
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So it doesn't shrink back when paint is applied, it should be left undisturbed for a couple of days. In my scenario, it will get at least a week. Horrible stuff it is too. Gets everywhere and doesn't come off easily, but has exceptional flexability and lasts long enough to see me out! I used Sikaflex Auto+. It is sandable when dry, and will take top coat paint without need for priming (though I will apply primer x1 coat. Thats just my paranoia talking, because I waht to be absolutely sure it doesn't bleed black through the green finishing coats. Product usage specs say it won't do that, but lots of things happen that shouldn't, right!
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Unable to do anything further on the roof today, I painted the panel that holds the canvas cover to front of the roof. Needed to file some/most of the edges of this piece. Several areas were surprisingly sharp, and bearing in mind the canvas will be tightly pulled against the front edge of this panel, I wanted to avoid damage to the canvas when taut. Perhaps paranoia again, but you gotta avoid as many potential threats as practical.
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My attempt at using solid copper rivets to secure the tabs on my rear window, were laughable. I don't have the correct size rivet setter, and without the correct tool I would just butcher the job. What you see above is the compromise method of fixing the lower corner tabs that hold the curtain from flapping. More about them once they are in place.
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Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1732  
Old 21-05-17, 12:14
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Tony Baker
 
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Due to recent deterioration in health, I find myself unable to maintain and drive my grey truck as often as it deserves. By now i expected to have painted it green, but that hasn't hqppened, and probably won't for some time. It deserves better attention than i am able to give, so I'm putting it up for sale. I have a new set of king pins, and would like new owner to get these installed, as it should cure the steering wander, which although not dramatic, (and you do get used to it) annoyed me greatly. Brakes are good. Dual battery system has been set up by previous owner to me, who was a retired electrical engineer and used the truck on interstate trips over a period of years. For long distance driving, both fuel tanks have been swapped for ones approx 50% bigger than originals. A modern 4cyl diesel engine has been professionally installed, as has a 4 speed synchro gearbox. Truck cruises at 85km/h peacefully, but goes faster if you don't mind the noise! At some point in the vehicles past, the roof hatch has been removed, and the welding up is not attractive. I was going to apply a coat of stone guard over it and put cargo on the roof, such as camo netting etc.. I have a spare frame from a sunshine cab that can go with the truck, if that is of interest. I also have 2x spare rooves that could donate hatch and replacement roof metal to braing6back original look. Buyer is welcomed to these as well!

I have light truck tyres on it at present, and there is two more new tyres of same tread in the shed. I also have a set of 4 wheels (in green) with bar tread tyres. Which tyres/wheels go with the vehicle is to be discussed with potential purchaser.

I am selling so i don't watch this vehicle deteriorate for lack of attention. It deserves better than that, and I am not capable of giving the care needed. Vehicle is for sale at $4000. It will be sold with QLD registration. Personalised plates do not go with the vehicle.

I intend to continue with restoration of the green truck and the 25 pounder replica. These two can more than fill my time.

Further details available to prospective purchasers. Please send me a private message in first instance.

Im sorry to see this truck go, but i have to be realistic. I'm not able to do everything i used to do, and things are worsening. I want my legacy to be a well restored (green) CMP and a 25pr copy pulled behind it. I don't have time for other projects.
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Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1733  
Old 19-06-17, 07:18
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Won't be doing much on the green truck for a little while. All sorts of home repairs and improvements to be done, and all that. Before I back off posting, I would like to share a story which unfolded over past 5-6 weeks. Story will be finished when Bryce graduates his RAEME qualification later this year, but this first bit is the amazing portion.

For a while I've been looking for a suitably memorable gift for Bryces graduation, in latter half of this year. What do you get for a military man who may move locations a number of times and have little space to spare? It would need to be light and portable, yet remain special and memorable. After considerable thought I decided to call on another of the Baker clan from the English side of the family. He's a retired Doctor (lets call him Tom), and has always been my favorite for over 40 years. I wrote him, spoke of the significance my Sons graduation had for Mrs B. and I, and asked if he was able to come up with something suitable. What Tom sent me was absolutely wonderful. We were so overwhelmed with the gesture, that we had to have it professionally framed, with no expense spared. What do you think of it?

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Everyone loves Dr Who, right?

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Fairly safe to say, the worlds favorite Doctor Who is Tom Baker.
He was, is, and will always be, one of the nicest characters you could imagine.
God bless ya, Tom Baker! Your gift will be cherished for a lifetime.
Britain, Britain, Britain!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #1734  
Old 19-06-17, 10:33
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Location: Macleod, Victoria, Australia
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Thumbs up Tom Baker

Isn't that wonderful!

What a nice thing for him to do too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Fairly safe to say, the worlds favorite Doctor Who is Tom Baker.
He was, is, and will always be, one of the nicest characters you could imagine.
God bless ya, Tom Baker! Your gift will be cherished for a lifetime.
Britain, Britain, Britain!
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
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  #1735  
Old 19-06-17, 10:41
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
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Wow that's great.
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Robert Pearce.
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  #1736  
Old 19-06-17, 13:02
Allan L Allan L is offline
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Brilliant.
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  #1737  
Old 19-06-17, 13:18
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Tony Baker
 
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I know, what a great guy, yeah?

Go take a look at his facebook page and play his several video messages. Tom is 83/84 years old now, but is just the same as he was in the 1970s. Possibly even more lovable and charming. Did you know he did an ad for Keep Australia Beautiful, in the 1970s.....as Doctor Who! Youtube it. Or as Tom would say on his Little Britain voice-over, 'Look it Up'.

If I ever get to England again, I want to go shake his hand.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 27-06-17 at 21:25.
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  #1738  
Old 21-06-17, 11:45
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Howard Howard is offline
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Location: Ganmain, Australia
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Smile Wow

Wow, what a buzz!
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F15 #12
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  #1739  
Old 30-06-17, 10:15
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Tony Baker
 
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To all my dear Friends and Comrades who have been such an important and enlightening part of my long-winded restoration/s.

Gentlemen,

A recent blood test gave cause for suspicion that I may have had a life limiting condition. On Monday, a specialised (and hugely expensive) MRI confirmed what was feared. I have Prostate Cancer. There are multiple cancer sites, and on the grading from 1 to 5, mine are a 4 for two of them, and another is only a 2. My dear Wife and I are suitably devestated. In my age group, prostate cancer is more aggressive. My Father had prostate cancer, so the risks of me getting it was double the normal male population.

I am seeing the specialist again on Thursday next week, and expect his recommendation will be for a Radical Prostatectomy. That is most common treatment for patients of my age, due to risk of rapid growth over a relatively short timeframe. Also, if entire prostate is not removed, the cancer can resurface in another location. So far as I know, the cancers are contained within the prostate itself, but this will need confirmation from the surgeon on Thursday.

I've always known a little about prostate cancer, but this past couple of weeks I must have read 50 individual articles, reports, studies, and research papers. In some ways, I wish I hadn't. The side effects and long-term health problems which commonly follow radical prostatectomy are horrifying to me. Incontinence is only one problem which can be permanent, and there are other issues which change ones spousal relationship forever. Those aside (as if they weren't frightening me!) radical prostatectomy is the best option for ensuring the cancer doesn't take my life within a couple of years, so I have reluctantly resigned myself to my fate!

With the above in mind, Mrs B and I are taking day trips every weekend and trying to cram as much happiness and memories into every minute we have. Until all the treatment has unfolded, and I am greatly recovered, I will not be progressing with any restoration work at all. It's just not a priority when something like this comes along.

I would like to offer my heartfelt thanks to all my MLU friends, and I wish you all the very best in your own lives. You have taught, assisted with parts and info, and mentored me in so many ways. I can't overstate my gratitude. It's been a long voyage of discovery which may yet be completed. I won't post anything new about my health, now. I don't wish to drag this on, beyond this one posting. No point in being a continual wet blanket. That probably was poorly chosen wording, actually.

My hat's off to you all.

I'll be around, watching all the progress of you other folks!

Tony
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 30-06-17 at 10:31.
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  #1740  
Old 30-06-17, 11:47
lynx42 lynx42 is offline
Rick Cove
 
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Tony, Tony, Tony! I am so sorry to hear of your problems. I have and I hope we will continue to enjoy your restorations and builds. I wish both you and Mrs.B a successful outcome and a happy future.

Kind regards Rick.

PS. I had a PSA test last week and haven't heard from the GP so I hope that I am not like you and all is OK.
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