#1
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Stuck valve now what?
Hi All
Particularly you guys with Ford Flat Heads, what do you do when you have a stuck valve that is stuck all the way down. Had three stuck exhaust valves but only one was down the two partially open valves could get them moving up and down a little and squirted them with the acetone and ATF and they came out but one is all the way down. Don't want to damage the valve train so I'm looking for ideas. Only thing I can think of is to weld a bolt to the head of the valve and use the impact wrench to get it turning. Then use the bolt and a large socket and some washers as a puller buy screwing a nut on the bolt shaft. If this was a Chevy it would be simple just drive the stem end down with impact hammer. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#2
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Take the clip off the guide then take out the valve and guide at the same time.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#3
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Removing stuck valves
Hi Phil,
If it were not for the acetone and ATF mixture I would go with heating up the valve with the good old oxy-acetylene torch, if you have it. It is amazing what oxy heat can do with frozen items after they cool down. Perhaps if the acetone has all evaporated and you are reasonably happy, and outdoors, it might work. All depends how dirty the engine is too. Keep an extinguisher handy just the same. Once the stem expands with the heat and cools it may break the bind. Is it the mushroom stem ends or straight shank later 8BA type? Once you get it free I suggest you drive the guides down and out rather than pull them down with the valve lifter bar. I learnt the hard way that the valve guide lip is brittle and broke one before a mate gave me this vintage Australian made valve guide knockout tool (attached). All you do is raise the valve after removing the collets or keeper, put the spoon end under the valve head onto the guide and whack the end of the tool with a decent hammer. No doubt there are new ones on the market or you could rough out a similar tool. Best of luck but in any case play it safe if in doubt using oxy. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#4
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It's out
Hi Guys
Thanks for the suggestions and pointers, this is the later flat head Ford Truck/Lincoln which as the valve retainer clips like the Chevy 6 and the one piece valve guide. What I end up doing once I decided the valve was toast was welded a grade 8 bolt to the valve, then ran two nuts on and locked them against each other and used the impact wrench, with a light touch back and forth until it was turning a little. Then put spacer over the valve and used a nut and hand wrench as a threaded puller and the valve came out. Yes, I did let the acetone evaporate overnight and had a fire extinguisher handy, though the engine is fairly clean by now. Think that welding the bolt on the valve probably heats the stem up nicely. The globs of stuff on the valve seats in the picture are anti splatter paste so I would damage the valve seats with splatter. Covered all the cylinder bores with leather welding shield. Trick works for pulling a stuck valve which you can not get at easily to drive out. Please read the next post a big safety caution about Sodium Filled Exhaust Valves. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 14-01-13 at 15:41. Reason: Add a safety caution |
#5
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welding to valves..
I'm glad this worked out for you Phil..but i would be very carefull to be certain to NEVER do this with a sodium filled valve.
If you burned through the head to the sodium or cracked the stem or tore the head off exposing the sodium to atmosphere it could result in explosion, fire, serious personal injury or death. Oh and its nice to see that the area between your intake valves and cylinders havnt been welded up.From what i understand its pretty common to have cracks in that area.My number 1 8EQ engine has the rear three on the passenger side brazed up poorly..i'll have to rework them properly when the time comes..Hopefully the number 2 engine isnt in the same state when it gets here. I was looking at your lincoln resto pics..nice job..and i was wondering if you had or would know where to lay hands on a spare lincoln 337 bellhousing..i have the F8 bell, clutch and flywheel on the way but they may increase the overall length of the powerpack too much for the bay on my cab 13.I'd be curious to know the o.d. of the lincoln flywheel as well.. thanks in advance
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Stab it and steer... Last edited by Corey Myronuk; 13-01-13 at 02:58. |
#6
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Very important point on the sodium valves.
Hi Corey
Extremely good point about the sodium valves, same should be said of heating them with a torch. Problem of extracting stuck valves is pretty much a Flat Head and some L Head engines, where the valves are in the block instead of the head. Not sure if there are many of these that used sodium filled valves, but and it is a big but I think they were used in some hot rod applications. Most if not all valve in head stuck valves can be handled by removing the head and using a bearing press to push out the valves. Thanks for the reminder though because the next two restoration projects going into the shop have sodium valves. One of these did eat a sodium cooled exhaust at one point in its life with no major problems. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#7
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Yep i agree phil it is a mostly flathead issue.the canadian M37 chrysler 251L6 and a lot of the heavy truck applications use the sodium valves.what u do is turn the block uoside down so the oil can run down into the giude area.Ive also found that well used tranny fluid works better than new for some reason.
heat the valve head with a propane or mapp gas torch will draw the oil down into the guide with little worry of damage..add a generous portion of patience..and i use the cam to gently work the valves as carefully as possible..add a little oil and heat.work it a little..repeat..itll usually come.
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Stab it and steer... |
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