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  #61  
Old 08-06-15, 03:41
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Duh!!!!

Where are the pictures??? or am I welding on the ceiling????

Maybe my screen is fresh out of pixels...must buy another bag full.

Shears.......
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C15a Cab 11
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  #62  
Old 08-06-15, 03:52
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Tech Errors

Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
Bob: Exhausted.
Grant: On his back.
Rob: Scraping bottom.

'Eats, shoots, and leaves'
Hi Terry, Had to delete the last posting - can't seem to upload pics in the correct orientation. Tried to downsize but my photo software minimum limit is 135K...more later. BTW - do you want us to repack and add a tarp to your pile of parts in the back 40?
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  #63  
Old 11-06-15, 22:34
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Its mine... mine... all mine ya hear!!!!

What a wonderful day..... after 35 years of hidding it behind the barn my C15a is now registered as unplated.

I will be getting YOM plates and my shorty plate has been verified as OK now have to send the papers.

Now to finish the work on it for a safety and insurance......

The secret is perserverance against all obstacles an a course in Yoga to know which leg to stand on to please Service Ontario.

Its mine... really mine !!!!!

Cheers
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  #64  
Old 11-06-15, 23:26
Stuart Fedak Stuart Fedak is offline
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Default Congratulations on your perseverance

Bob, congratulations on your perseverance on this project. It sounds like a reason for a celebration. The rumour on the street is next week at the eat and greet, you will be "buying a whiskey for the men and a beer for the horses... "


Cheers!
Stuart
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  #65  
Old 11-06-15, 23:35
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Oh Boy

That will be a lot of beer!!!!!
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  #66  
Old 11-06-15, 23:36
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default How many offical hoops did you have to go through?

Hi Bob

Congratulations on this milestone.

Because of rule changes down here it has been getting harder and harder to register old trucks that have no paper work. Took getting turned down at four levels before they finally sent a DOT cop out to the house to look at the truck.

Cheers Phil
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  #67  
Old 12-06-15, 00:25
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default It is a real headache....

....actually had to trace on of the sons of the original owner.... thank God for the Web....

Also...using the small one person rural outlet in Rockland made the difference.... too many people too many advice and opinions...... even had my restored 1940 plate verified and checks out OK so I can get a YOM plate....

The plate is referred to as a shorty with only 2 numerals one letter one numeral about 10 inches...... will look good on the truck.

Next debate.... can you get a YOM for a period CMP trailer????.... already have the plate.....

In Ontario you need two plates front and back BUT in 1943 and 45 and 46 only one plate was produced and WILL be accepted for a YOM......

...another fine point. you can affix a small metal tab of the same yellow color as the 1940 plate( they sell for $20 ) to the top of the plate to hold your yearly certication tag....

Takes juggling but it can be done.

Cheers
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 12-06-15 at 00:27. Reason: stupid
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  #68  
Old 02-08-15, 13:09
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Summer Update

The usual: weather too hot/muggy/wet, the Hammond airforce out in large numbers, domestic chores getting in the way of CMP fun, and some CMP/SMP activity.

The unusual: Bob and Grant recovered a CMP trailer, both went to Weare for the annual show; my focus remains on my M37 cargo box restoration and the installation of the new wiring harness (later this week). Oh yes, we received a visit from the "prez" on his way back from New Brunswick - see photo.

Photos

1 - Bob and Grant playing with metal glue on Bob's cab frame.
2 - The frame bound up to let the glue cure.
3 - M37 bed floor after plenty of welding and rust killer paint.
4 - Chris dropped by for a short but informative visit.
Attached Thumbnails
back1.jpg   back2.jpg   bed.jpg   pres.jpg  
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  #69  
Old 25-08-15, 03:59
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Request for information/pictures of cab 11 dash.

Trying to sort out what the switches are connected/labelled for on the cab 11.....

In particular the 3 little toggle switches.

I have included what I photographed on board an early C8...... amazing that the white lettering is still legible aftr all these years..... BUT .... are they correct/original???



And a picture of my dash where the switches from left to right reads....


STOP TAIL INST.

Are they correct????

The white knob switch and the one next/below to it have been removed and welded shut.....alos removed the extra ignition key switch....

Cheers
Attached Thumbnails
IM003133switch platesarrows.jpg   IM000768.jpg  
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  #70  
Old 25-08-15, 06:29
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default

Hi Bob.

Here's an earlier post by you back when I was trying to sort out the toggle switches on my cab11 C8, look at post #200-:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...t=11657&page=7

Thanks again, David

Last edited by David DeWeese; 25-08-15 at 06:36.
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  #71  
Old 25-08-15, 17:01
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Thanks for the reminder.....

Ah how soon we forget...

Thanks David.

Since I have not been able to find an "Official" dash picture from a government publication I am still questionning the three toggle switches on mine......

Wondering what Phil Waterman and others who are just recently restoring other cab 11/12 might have to offer.

Still do not understand why I have a two way switch for the instruments????

and I now recognize that I will need to buy a civilian Chev headlight switch and something to replace the gas tank gauge switch as the one that was installed belonged to a South Wind Heater.

Will be posting some recent truck photos in a separate thread.

Cheers
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  #72  
Old 25-08-15, 17:43
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Progress report - Cab rear wall.

Well we finally finished the rear wall using that "body shop metal glue". A bit tricky as this was just the second time we used it.

Leave a very smooth finish...... notice total absence of the original CMP manufacturing spot weld.....I know it is too smooth and not original anymore. But the body glue has the advantage of effectively seal the bottom angle iron to the sheet metal which hopefully will prevent the previous rust problem. The stiffening ribs were also glued with the same product instead of the original 3 or 4 sloppy spot weld. It makes for a very tight and solid back wall. Primed with POR 15 and 3 coats of OD 34087 flat.

I used a 1/2 inch x 1/8 thick soft sticky rubber ( do not know what it is called as procured from a flea market) on each side of the floor bolt pattern. All bolted with 5/16 new grade 8 fine thread bolts. The rubber material squished down fine and filled all the irregularities of the dot and dash floor plate. Also used the 1/2 in. cab 12 reinforcements in the rear corner ......all which makes a very stiff rear wall.

Using a carpenter square confirmed that the wall sat at almost a perfect 90 degrees to the floor and frame.

That was for the good news.

Note ..the original unfinished roof was installed to see how things fitted.
Attached Thumbnails
DSC01902cropresized.jpg   DSC01903cropresized.jpg  
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  #73  
Old 25-08-15, 17:52
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Now for the bad news........

Panice set in when I installed the cab 12 doors that I repaired over two years ago.

Yea carumba the doors don't fit.....

Will have to slice that door and widden by over an inch.

No cut the floor instead becauce the origianl canvass windows will not fit if you lenghten the door.

I told you not to mix cab 11 and cab 12 parts

Shawdupp!!!!

So we took a break and went for coffee.....

see the scary pictures of my crippled doors.... and no they are not Autralian prototype of the Summer door.
Attached Thumbnails
DSC01904cropresized.jpg   DSC01909resized.jpg  
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  #74  
Old 25-08-15, 17:59
Gordon Yeo Gordon Yeo is offline
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Default 11 & 12 parts

Bob

Your scaring me! Don't mix 11 & 12 parts !!!!!!!!!

Gord
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  #75  
Old 25-08-15, 18:10
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default After the large tea and donut.....

Fully charged with sucrose and cholesterol we can back.....

As any one figured out the answer.......

Why is the door so short???

I measured two other sets of cab 12 doors and they all measured 26 1/4 in. more or less.......

Door opening is the same size as all the other cab 12 I have and the front and rear opening is all near paralelle.....

It is at this point that we fitted the windshield pipe frame and the roof..... desperately looking for reassurance that I woud not have to take the cab apart and cut off an inch to shortent it.

We bolted the cab agaisnt the back wall tightly and it support itself without any links to the windshield pipe frame and lined up very nicely.

Still that huge gap in the door.......

So I decided to try out the original cab 11 door..... now the hinges are all bent out of shape but nonetheless...............
......... most of the gap disappeared....?

The solution is complex and as yet to be fully tested...

First the leading edge of the door...... where the sheet metal skin is folded over is at least twice as wide as all opposite side or the bottom and curved area.

But I am still short of reaching the actual latch mechanism in the front cab frame.

My front latch frame on the arches are also worn and have since been removed fro sandlasting and rebuilding to full size with the welder.

The other observations is that of all the doors that I have NOT one set of hinges has the same twist, deformation and /or butchered welding.

So selecting the best hinges and using the hydraulic press we have reshaped a full set to the same profile which I believe...... fingers crossed..... will actually move the door forward sufficiently to line up properly.

I hope we have the solution and averted further surgery.

Progress report to follow.

Meanwhile any and all suggestions are desperately welcome.

Cheers

PS...... look at that smooth sheet metal curve....smooth as a baby's butt...... the sheet metal was rolled on both ends prior to gluing.....
Attached Thumbnails
DSC01923cropresized.jpg   DSC01926c rop.jpg   DSC01927crop.jpg  
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 25-08-15 at 18:12. Reason: braggin rights....
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  #76  
Old 25-08-15, 18:16
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Now for some harsh reality.

I have not sat in my cab 11 with the roof installed since 2004.

Ouch........'tis tight....very tight.

Once in your fine......

I would hate to have to bail out under fire and might go down with the truck!!!!

Grant took a series of Yoga twist photos I use to get in..... including having to pull hard to squeeze my (long) left leg over the door sill.

But worth it!!!!

....can't seem to be able to attach the pictures!!!!
"MANAGE ATTACHEMENT" button will not work....

Seems I have runout of security tokens for posting???
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 25-08-15 at 18:30.
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  #77  
Old 25-08-15, 18:23
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Cab 11.05

Hi Gord

Yes mix and match......

Used the cab corner reinforcements, the radiator reinforcement bar that fits behind the fan. ....cab 12 vent opening as mine had been torched...... and some cab 12 engine covers section to patch up mine.......not to mention the doors....

....and so far so good!!!!!

Stay tuned.
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  #78  
Old 25-08-15, 18:33
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Yoga positions for entering cab 11....

Hoping the pictures will work this time..

Nah..... something is wrong!!!!

GOT ME SOME TOKENS FROM HANNO

apparently if you get the message that you lack security tokens it is because your pictures are tooooo large... so will try again.
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 25-08-15 at 19:16.
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  #79  
Old 25-08-15, 19:23
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Yoga postions to enter a cab 11......take 4

Now I know how to do it.
Attached Thumbnails
DSC01911crop resized.jpg   DSC01913cropresized.jpg   DSC01915cropresized.jpg   DSC01920cropresized.jpg  
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  #80  
Old 27-08-15, 02:04
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default door hinges....

Hi Bob,

Took some photos of the door hinges on my cab 11 C8 today. Both halves of the hinge are bent to give about 7/8" gap between the two pieces. Has a fairly large gap between the cab back panel and the hinged part of the door also...the doors fit and latch well.

Thanks, David
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DSCF0055.jpg   DSCF0060.jpg   DSCF0054.jpg  
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  #81  
Old 27-08-15, 02:36
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Thank you....

For the re assurance.....looking at your hinges I can see that my door hinges, which are flat at the moment, will need some tweaking to get the proper gap at the rear of the door. I also have the luxury of adjusting the door skin, which is not yet installed, to make up some of the space.

I feel better that I am moving in the right direction.

Cheers
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 27-08-15 at 02:42.
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  #82  
Old 27-08-15, 02:40
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default One more question David....

On your C8..... did you have or have you added any rubber trim to the doors or door sill.....?

As you know the early cab 11 was steel on steel but the luxurious cab 12 had some rubber seals retro fitted at least on the door sill curve over the fender.

Curious if the door slam close with a clank or a thud!!!!!!

Cheers
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  #83  
Old 27-08-15, 03:57
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default steel on steel...

Hi Bob,

My truck had no remnants of rubber anywhere around the door openings. Both of the adjustable latch parts on the body were welded in place by someone, so I cleaned the welds up a little and the doors latched properly without modification to the hinges or anything...got lucky there! I did have to install two shims under the front of the rear body panel to make the doors raise at the front and line up right...one thin shim at the rear makes a big difference at the front...

Thanks, David
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  #84  
Old 27-08-15, 17:35
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Fitting Pat 11/12 Doors

Hi Bob

Couple of thoughts to add to the discussion of fitting the doors.

1. The fenders need to be inlace when the doors are fitted, remember I replaced one of my fenders after the fact along with the cab frame, (thanks to your kind help with better unbent parts) well as you might expect it changed the fit of the the door to the cab frame. But the real surprise was the edge of the door no longer cleared the fender as it closed.

2. Trick I use for fitting doors, hoods, etc. is to use a stack of refridgerator magnets on the sides, bottom etc as shims to get the door well centered. Take on mag from one side
Click image for larger version

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ID:	75920

3. I'm still using temporary hindges I made back in 2005, they work so well just never got around to trying to make ones that look like the original.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Pat 12 Nose Alighment 019.jpg
Views:	4
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ID:	75921
Made of a couple of bits of floor plate welded to two sections of 3/8ID pipe and 3/8th bolts though the result looks like a field expedient replacement part. Added advantage is easy to remove the doors.

Cheers Phil

PS Like your morning yoga exercise routine. No body told us that a requirement for getting into and out of CMPs was you have to be able to touch your knee to your ear.
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 27-08-15 at 17:41. Reason: Learning new computer
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  #85  
Old 27-08-15, 19:23
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Thanks for the tip.....

....since I am storing my cab 11 in a 20ft standard size sea container..... I am considering leaving by driver's side hinge pin loose so I can remove the door before driving in or I am in ofr the duration.....

... or cut a door opening on the side of the container lined up to the driver's door for easy exit and retrieval......

Why did they make them so small!!!!!!

Cheers
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  #86  
Old 09-09-15, 23:54
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default

The last while at the barn have been a mixture of modern vehicle maintenance (rewiring one of the recovery trailers) and CMP projects.
Bob has continued fine tuning the fit of his door frames in preparation for reskinning them and we have both been cleaning fuel tanks in preparation for applying a lining to them. I had already been offended by a terrible job of soldering in the necks done by the previous owners (POs) so had melted out the old, calmped the neck assembly down onto the tank, heated the support strap to allow it to "relax" into a better fit, tack welded the neck to the tank to replace the original spot welds and resoldered to deal the necks to the tank. Much better. Bob has been commenting/complaining about the many screws involved in the cab 11 tanks and the gorillas who last tightened the drain plugs while I have noticed that once the large cover is off the cab 11/12 tanks, interior access is so much better than cab 13 tanks. While cleaning dust and grit from the 13 tanks, I noticed that it looked like the POs had applied some form of sealer inside the tank that was failing so gallons of a product sold by auto paint dealer as "gun wash" were poured in to soak and strip the coating. At this point it became obvious that the coating had actually done some good in plugging a number of pinholes in the bottom of the tank. The longer the wash was in the tank, the more wet spots became noticeable. Strip the paint from the bottom of the tank, pick and probe at any possible pinhole locations (usually a dark spot or small pit) to identify problems, hammer gently to form a small dimple around the pinholes, shake loose any more flakes in the area and then try solder to seal the pinholes. I was surprised how well the solder worked with only simple plumbing products. Holes to 1/8" were sealed. The tank now has a case of the silver measles. Bob and I did alkaline soaks on 4 tanks to remove fuel residues and other dirt followed by acid to phosphate the interiors. The tanks are now drying to ensure a good base for the sealing coat that is to follow, also to be sure no moisture is trapped between tank and sealer. I was happy to note that the repaired tank didn't leak during the alkalai/acid soaks so I must have done something right. The tank necks didn't leak either so that helped the smiles. I would have been happier if I had been able to make lower profile repairs but that would have needed either much thinner patch solder or deeper dimples.
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  #87  
Old 10-09-15, 02:39
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Grant's simple trick......

When you think you have found all the possible pin holes Grant came up with a great trick.

Insert a powered 12v brake light inside the tank and turn off the barn lights and doors...... amazingly enough ..... a few little stars glowed in the dark that we had totally overlooked..... a bit of poking with dental tools and cover with solder.

We are using a POR 15 tank sealer kit......... last step is the white inside coating that needs to be done. The tanks exterior can be repainted. Some of the caustic/acidic solutions inevitably spilled and removed some of the exterior paint but did not touch the bottom layer of POR 15 on my tanks.

Cheers
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  #88  
Old 08-10-15, 23:28
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Busy at the Barn

Looked what Santa dropped off early! A nice box for Bob and me. The weather was drop dead gorgeous - warm with a breath of wind. No bugs! Two new to us storage containers were imported and will serve to hold most of the spare parts floating around the barn. The great debate is where to place them.

Photos
1 - Presents!
2 - Our patented sea can mobility unit can be seen under box 1
Attached Thumbnails
Boxes.jpg   bobs box.jpg  
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Last edited by RHClarke; 09-10-15 at 14:01.
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  #89  
Old 09-10-15, 01:13
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default You guys are teasing me

Hi

Is that the Mark I or Mark II Container/Wheel Mobility Unit?

Good weather and time to be in the shop that's just plain to much, suppose you been driving CMPs around in the field as well.

Cheers Phil

PS still typing one handed, which sure doesn't help my typing
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 10-10-15 at 15:42. Reason: spelling
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  #90  
Old 09-10-15, 22:55
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Simple home made device.

Not much time with my truck recently due to the mad rush for finishing Winter's firewood.

A few years ago I built an axle out of 4 inch tubing that fits into the fork lift pockets located at about 1/3 and 2/3 of the container.

We lift the container with the 3 point hitch insert the axle tube and attach to axle stub welded to a short section of tube over the 4 inch axle tube and pin tothether with tractor pins.

I then lift the far end of the container with the hitch of the tractor and merrily roll along at very low speed. I use the Winter tires from the Hyundai inflated at 35 pounds.... they are just plain 235/75 x 16 tires.

Hoping to pair my container with my first one and span the 20 odd feet of space with sheet metal roofing...... so I can store 2 trucks inside and two more under the in between span.

Cheers
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