Vision Shutters

Jordan Baker · #1 09-01-07, 05:57

Hi everyone.

These have to be one of the harder parts of carrier restoration simply due to the fact that the descriptions suck and there was no parts diagram. I figured I would post the following pictures to identify the parts by their numbers.

Just a few notes.

The csk. machine screws and dome headed ones have yet to be cut to the proper length. I just haven't got to it. Plus the manual doesn't give a length for them.

The only parts I have left out are the cotter pins. Thats the one description that is easy to follow plus it should be rather obvious where they go.

The part manual refers to "Shutter, Gunner and Driver Observation" and " Shutter Gunner's Observation". All of my pictures are of the parts from the Drivers shutter. This has all of the same parts numbers as the extreme left side shutter. The middle shutter is the one referred to as "Shutter, Gunner's Observation." I have referred to its specific parts by just using "middle" after the part numbers. You will see what I mean when you get there.

Im keeping text to a minimum and will let the pictures speak for themselves. If anyone needs further clarification or spots errors in my part numbers please post a reply.

Jordan Baker · #2 09-01-07, 05:58

Shutter components.

Jordan Baker · #3 09-01-07, 05:59

Lever arm and plunger detail.

The spring retaining pin is not identified in my picture because it is not listed in the parts manual. You can just make it out in my picture at the top of the spring.

To make these I bought some compression springs that fit the plunger at Home Depot. I streched them out to make them into extension springs and then cut them to the needed length. I then screwed them onto to the plunger after I had installed the retaining pin.

Jordan Baker · #4 09-01-07, 06:06

Link arm and nut detail

In the upper picture part # CTL 7339 is the original kind. These are impossible to find. Instead they have to be substitued by # CTL 3496. However these have to be filed down as shown in the picture to become CTL 3502.

Since I couldn't find any CTL 7339 I decided to make up extra CTL 3502 instead.

Brian Asbury sells CTL 3496. Since he no longer has CTL 3502 he substitues them with CTL 3946. For some reason TL 3503 is only 3/16" thick, whereas CTL 7336 is 1/4" thick. Thats why you need to modify them. I hope the pictures explain it better.

Lynn Eades · #5 14-01-07, 21:28

Hi Jordan. Greatstuff! I have a line drawing here that I was given copy of by Jeff Plowman. I can e-mail a better quality copy if you want it. Ignore the bottom half it relates to the back rest of a bren carrier.

Ralph Volkert · #6 12-10-12, 16:00

Jordan, I can't tell from the picture does the flat steel handle twist right or left to get it off. I am making dimensional drawings of the button assembly, and dont want to break anything of this original!

My first project is to make shutter button handles and shafts and if I can find the brass stock try making the blocks. I am also going to try making a bunch of Brittish screws and bolts!

I just bought a South Bend 9" x 36" lathe and an Atlas shaper and most of the tooling I need. I should be up and running this weekend. It has been a while since I have had access to a lathe. (Grade nine shop class and later when I worked at Queens University department of metullurgy)

If any one is looking for simple/resonable machine work to be done let me know
those nuts would be nothing to turn down and face properly. I also have a small Unimat lathe for really small parts. So let me know if you are stuck and we will see what I can do for you!

Jordan Baker · #7 12-10-12, 16:13

Ralph

Do you mean the knob part that you'd pull out away from the brass fitting? If so I think it is righty tighty, lefty loosey.

When I took apart mine I used a bit of heat then discovered the remains of a tiny cotter pin that went through the base of the knob and through the pin. Once I punched it out they unscrewed.

I also bought NOS pins from Brian Asbury to replace my rusted out ones. I found water must have gotten into the brass fittings and rusted the springs and parts of the shafts. Not sure if Brian still has them though

Ralph Volkert · #8 12-10-12, 16:22

Yes Jorden The knurled flat knob that you pull out on the brass fitting.

The original I am using for a template has been well stored and I have cleaned it and remved the cotter pin with no difficuly! It isnt my piece, (Thanks Ross!) so I am being VERY carefull!

I will try a it of heat then.

Jordan Baker · #9 12-10-12, 16:40

Ok good. One other thing I just remembered was that there is a pin that goes through the plunger to hold the spring down. I think if you pull on the knob and turn it so it moves the shaft. That will allow the pin to go into the slots of the brass fitting. Once it's in there keep the tension on it and then unscrew the knob from the plunger. Just watch that the plunger doesn't go flying out the bottom of the brass piece once the knob is unscrewed.

Hopefully this all makes sense.

greg anderson (RIP) · #10 09-11-12, 01:47

Hi Ralph -with respect , I think you may be gilding the lily to make British threads for these shutters -I do not think it likely that anyone looking at your carrier will know the difference-if they do you should inquire what they used on their own carrier -bearing in mind that you will know and it may keep you from sleeping -I would forgive you for using ordinary bolts -regards --Greg

jeff davis · #11 09-11-12, 02:20

I have on of My shutters off if anyone needs a tracing of it.
I can send by snail mail
Jeff

George McKenzie · #12 10-11-12, 03:58

We Lazer cut some shutters at Edmonton at Lazer Tech. About a year ago ,I would guess about 10 sets.They might still have the original sizes to make some more .They look just like the original ones .

Michael R. · #13 07-03-13, 02:05

The Chilwell illustration with part number page.

Robin Craig · #14 07-03-13, 05:20

Fascinating thread, but sadly not my era but can appreciate the work.

One small question for Jordan, just how far does the plunger fly?

R

Lynn Eades · #15 07-03-13, 08:33

Answer for Robin, (not from Jordan) about an 1/8" or maybe slightly less.

Stew Robertson · #16 08-03-13, 03:23

acually it is .187 according to an original

Lynn Eades · #17 08-03-13, 03:55

Am I to be shot at dawn?

.... It is a constant battle to sort the S..t from the sugar, in the carrier info game.

Jordan Baker · #18 08-03-13, 04:59

Since Robin asked me I'm a bit offended I never got the chance to reply.

Robin in answer to your question, I don't know. Hopefully someone else who does can post up the answer.

Stew Robertson · #19 12-03-13, 15:43

Lynn I didn't mean to turn your crank ,it was I just was making new parts from an original and had the measurement here on my desk.
Sorry

Lynn Eades · #20 13-03-13, 06:17

Jordan; Sorry, i thought you'd be busy restoring a truck or a car, and not looking at the carrier posts.
Stew; You rightly kicked my a..e for giving false info. I normally try to be accurate. I was just being lazy. I think it's great that you posted the correct answer. I'm not offended.

Jordan Baker · #21 13-03-13, 07:36

Lynn. Nothing to be sorry about. It's just a bit of Canadian sacasim and wit.

I didn't know answer so I'm happy you guys did.

Michael R. · #22 30-12-13, 02:49

Here are reproductions of the Canadian produced shutter flat sections. Four of the flats are made from 1/4 inch HR steel; the one TL3503 from 3/16 inch. Spares assemblies of the five parts may be available in the for sale/trade section.