C60 wheel cylinders

[Richard Farrant]

I am sure this is a subject that has come up before, but could not find the answer on Search.

Am I correct in thinking that wheel cylinders for the C60 are the same as GMC CCKW? I recollect reading something about this.

Any info would be appreciated.

Richard

[Phil Waterman]

First which cylinders’ are you looking for front or rear? Second, you need to check the bore size of the cylinders you are looking once you know which size then you can cross the number over to new wheel cylinders which are available. Now for the funny part you won’t find them listed under Chevrolet because they are Ford parts.

[Phil Waterman]

Here are the parts numbers for my C60 which I ordered and installed with in the last year.

Item Vehicle Orginal Make Part # Original Casting # New Make Part # New
Brake Cylinders
Front 1-3/8 C60 Ford 91Y-2261 4 / S231 http://www.macsautoparts.com/pu.html

Rear 1-1/2 C60 Ford 91T-2261 6 / S232 http://www.macsautoparts.com/pu.html

[Richard Farrant]

Phil,

Thanks for all the info, very helpful. I am not sure what is needed at present, it is a customers vehicle and as yet not seen inside. Just getting a bit of background info. Depending on the bores, they will either be sleeved or renewed, a matter of cost. As I am in the UK, it is more preferable to locate on this side of the pond.

regards,
Richard

[Phil Waterman]

In the long run the best way to go if you have good useable cylinders. I’ve used both NOS or new cylinders they last about 5 years, first set of brass sleeves I put in are still going after nearly 20 years. I went with new cylinders on my latest truck as I didn’t have four sleeve-able cylinders left.

One note though there is an issue with using silicone brake fluid and sleeves. Silicone wants to leak between the sleeve and the cylinder some of the outfits over here will not warrantee the sleeves if you use silicone.

One other thing I’ve noticed keep the brakes adjusted so that the pistons stay out. This keeps the pistons and cups moving in the same area all the time. If you don’t adjust the brake shoes by the book you seem to end up with cups and pistons traveling in to far or out to far which seems to cause problems with cup wear and leakage.

[Richard Farrant]

Originally posted by Phil Waterman
In the long run the best way to go if you have good useable cylinders. I’ve used both NOS or new cylinders they last about 5 years, first set of brass sleeves I put in are still going after nearly 20 years. I went with new cylinders on my latest truck as I didn’t have four sleeve-able cylinders left.

Thanks Phil,

This vehicle will not be used in the extreme elements. It is well looked after by its owners!

In Britain, we resleeve cylinders with stainless steel, I have noted before that in the US, brass is used. There should not be the possibility of leakage between the sleeve if machined and fitted correctly, especially if a product such as Loctite Bearing Fit is used as a precautionary measure. If silicone can seep then ordinary brake fluid could as that is slightly thinner viscosity than silicone.

regards,
Richard

[Lynn Eades]

Good post Richard. reflects the situation here in N.Z. Stainless is in (with Loctite) and brass is out.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Re:

Yes the question has come up and no not the same

here are some pictures of GMC wheel cylinders for comparison:

[Lynn Eades]

With a recommendation from Rob Love, I bought mine from Rock auto. (U.S.A) They were about $32 or $38 each to buy (they were on special-then there was post) but the purchase price meant I could buy four sets for the price of getting two old cylinders sleeved in stainless. I was also having trouble locating the correct boots.
Note. The CCKW has a few variations, using either Timken or Banjo axles.
This style of cylinder (Hanno's pictures) only fits the front axle of the Timken type. This axle has the Wagner Lockheed single leading shoe. All the others are twin leading shoe and Delco type brakes, with the metal star wheel adjusters as part of the wheel cylinder assemblies.