Ford Air compressor

Cameron Reed · #1 01-09-10, 09:36

Hi there, just starting to rebuild the compressor off the truck. I think that I'm missing something of the top off the shifter shaft. The top of the shaft look's to have broken at some stage, not sure if there is supposed to be some sort of plate for the spring to attach to, I assume that it is for holding it in or out of gear. Also on the top cover,on the inlet side, should there be something that goes over the oval part then to a filter or line. I have a chev one which has got a filter which looks like out of a rocker cover with gauze in it which screws into the head. Any ideas or photo's would be much appreciated thanks.

aj.lec · #2 01-09-10, 13:13

This might help
Allbeit picture is upside down

Grant Bowker · #3 01-09-10, 13:22

The link below is to a thread that includes photos of a Chev air compressor, the main difference is the side of the transmission they mount on so they look more or less like mirror images Ford to Chev but the shaft extensin and spring fittings look very much the same on both compressors. The spring is an over-center design to hold the control shaft in either position yet resist changing from one to the other accidentally. Searching on the word compressor should give you several more threads to look at.
http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/sh...pressor&page=3

jaap de wit · #4 01-09-10, 20:51

here are some pictures of my chevy air compressor I hope they help.
about the oval intake, on it fits a triangel intake sprout when it is ford and a filter when it is chevy.
cheers jaap

Cameron Reed · #5 03-09-10, 15:34

Great thanks for the pics, I've know what i've got to fab up now

Cameron Reed · #6 22-09-10, 16:42

Hi there, I just thought that I would share with you the way that I repaired the broken shaft of my compressor. I decided that I would make a new extention and butt weld it on to the old shaft, mainly because I couldn't free the shifter fork off the old one, and didn't want to risk trying to heat the fork (looks like it's die cast) and end up with a blob on the floor!
Photo 1 a piece of 1"x1/2" turned on a mandrel (3/8" bolt) roughing out
Photo 2 after linishing to final shape
Photo 3 setting up to weld in some angle about an 1/8" gap to weld right through
Photo 4 1st run in check alignment
Photo5 finished weld just got to linish back to flush so gland nut can come down
Photo 6 on and working fine time for a Bundy can

Cameron Reed · #7 22-09-10, 16:44

my oops could only get 5 in so here's no 6 all the best