C60s
 

Hi Scott

A vehicle with that amount of rust should I think be split up as a parts source. You'll save yourself a huge amount of time, cost and stress by finding another in better condition, and that's not too hard to do here in Australia. I don't think I've ever seen springs as bad as those, they take the cake!

The modification on the end of the chassis is a civvy one and another reason to not use it.

The likely reason the date is not on the data plate is it may have been built in the Sydney factory as they put the date on the other plate on the engine cover as a rule. What are the details written on your data plates?

agree
 

Paint colour
 

The paint on your transfer case looks like it's Deep Bronze Green indicating post-war use by the Army.

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/at...5&d=1312076562

Whilst I haven't used the company for their wiring looms, I have purchased rubber window seals etc. from them.
I was restoring a 1923 Rolls-Royce in 2000 and was quoted, by another company, $450.00 just for the two vent window rubbers . Scott supplied the entire cars rubbers for $158.00. (Windscreen, vent windows, rear and side.) I didn't tell him at first that it was for a Rolls. I learnt that mistake quite quickly, but unlike the other company, it made no difference.
They were good to deal with.
Rick.

IG switch
 

I think the Chevs had a larger version of the Jeep style IG switch ....

Switches
 

Scott,

I have not used them but they would be of sufficient rating to handle all the electrical tasks as replacements for the originals.

Ian

pipe
 

I think that steam pipe is there mainly for off road use. If the vehicle is pointing downhill for a time, the steam will accumulate at the rear of the head .

Not sure about that . Somebody else will know more :teach:

You need the original cast brackets that bolt on to chassis end

On the steam pipe.
 

I am runnign a Chev 261 in a cab 11...... I have connected the stream line and a turn off valve.

Now everyone one knows that 261 have extra steam relief holes in the head/block.

I ran my engine using a clear vinyl line....... you run the engine to full operating temp.... about 160 degrees..... not hot enough for steam.

You run the engine for a while and when you open the valve..... the line filled with green antifreeze turn white with froth moving to the radiator...... after a while the line goes full of green fluid again. My conclusion is the engine can used it even if it is a modern 1959 chev 261. When I redid the line with the proper steel line and rubber connector... I removed the valve and am now running with the line fully open.

what did they know in 1940 that we don't know now....?

Bob

These are made by Vintage Wiring Harnesses in Melbourne. I have dealt with them directly and can vouch for their quality and accuracy.

Your answer lies here
 

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ht=spedo+cable I had mine made at 100" just to be safe.

It is my understanding that all Chev blitz motors are based on the 1940 model .So regardless of year model all have he 1940 base motor with the single hole water pump and domed pistons
Civilian models changed in 1941

6v 12v
 

Hi Scott - I am a bit of a purist and am glad you are sticking with 6v. I have heard so many reasons why people has resorted to 12v. None of them wash with me. 6v was more than adequate in those days and as long as you use heavy cabling and ensure good earths, you should have no problems. I think 12v is a lazy option.

:teach: Bob

numbers
 

Scott

If you look at the engine block , you will see a code cast on the dissy side towards the starter . It's the casting date of the block . I've forgotten how to decode it but .... the letters = month . A = January etc.

The code is also found on the gearbox housing and gearbox lid .

this is good to read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrol...aight-6_engine

Details
 

If the AWM had that degree of detail they would also have the body type. You should ask for more info.

Scott,

Tell me the ARNs and I'll see if I have the body type listed.

Mike C

Scott,

Your in luck, I have them both listed:

You wrote:

"C15A - Built in Brisbane. Was disposed of in Qld and was apparently sold to General Motors Holden @ 1946? No specific information of what rear body was fitted."

I have the truck assembled in Brisbane (chassis number is 38444B00075), and taken on charge by Army in Queensland. I don't have a year or place of disposal recorded, but just post war is reasonable, since the disposal SAN number is 5908. As you know, it was sold to GM-H.

To add to what you were told, the truck had a General Service body, so probably the all-steel body with valances (storage lockers) over the rear wheels, given its 1943 model year (so assembled in Australia 1943+).


C60 - Built in Sydney. Was disposed from 1 Base Ordnance Depot in NSW in 1964. No specific information on what rear body was fitted.

To add to your info: It was a 'Truck, 3 ton, Garage', and is a C60L. The reason it was disposed of so late was that it was a specialist body type. Those bodies in serviceable condition were transferred to Studebaker US6 6x6 trucks, and later, to Inter F1 6x6, so your truck was quite possibly disposed of as a cab-chassis.

Regards

Mike C

name
 

this is the only DP Lancashire listed on WW2roll.gov.au

Service Record
Name LANCASHIRE, DOUGLAS PAUL
Service Australian Army
Service Number Q201673
Date of Birth 16 Feb 1925
Place of Birth DALBY, QLD
Date of Enlistment 3 Apr 1943
Locality on Enlistment REDCLIFFE, QLD
Place of Enlistment REDCLIFFE, QLD
Next of Kin LANCASHIRE, SAMUEL
Date of Discharge 16 Aug 1944
Rank Private
Posting at Discharge 2 BATTALION VOLUNTEER DEFENCE CORPS (QLD)

He may have been conscripted into the AMF after leaving the VDC .... he would have been 18 by then. That's if its the same person who owned that drivers handbook.

Australian driver handbooks
 

They do turn up from time to time and are an amalgam of the individual Canadian ones. Surprising there aren't more of them around. The Ford one was the same format. The only Canadian handbooks here are the F15 because we imported numbers of them in their Canadian configuration.

As to your chassis in your next post, better by far to find a good one rather than spend a lot of time and effort on a bad one.

Re-inventing The Wheel
 

Scott - looking at what you have, you need help. With your bits and pieces $350 will get you a fully operational panel. Another $230 gets you a working temperature gauge built by an instrument technician.

Bob

You might try a impact driver . You can buy them anywhere . Its a kit with 3 different bits eg, phillips head and normal type . You place the driver onto the stuck screw and hit it with a hammer , the twisting action will loosen the screw. Make sure the slot in the screw head is clean . A little heat will help loosen it as well.

I've had varying success with 216 rebuild kits .... some of them come with low quality bearings that virtually fall apart as you press them in. The older NOS kits tend to have good bearings but beware as the lube inside the old NOS bearing may have dried up and it wont last long in service. You normally have to reface the surface where the carbon seal runs as it is usually pitted .

hope that helps .

Scott
 

Some options;
Use an impact driver. Give the head of the screws a hit with a flat faced punch, (square on)having carefully supported the casting at the other end of the screw. This is to jar it free. (do this first) Judiciously use a blunt cold chisel to chase the screw head in an anticlockwise direction. (one well judged blow)
Carefully heat the screws and let them cool. If that doesn"t free them, heat them again, and quench them with water.
One or a combination of the above should free them.

A little bit of heat......
 

In similar circumstances....... we use the oxy-acet to heat up the casting to a pale cherry red...... than with a handy dandy impact screw driver start impacting the screw head. The screws can be hard rusted to the point of shearing the flat end of the screw dirver attachements..... but they sell spares.

As mentioned if it does not work at first quench with water....let it sit.... repeat heat process.

Prefer it to drilling heads off 10 to 1.

Another way would be to grind some clean shiny meatl on the screw head and weld a 3/8 nut on the head using the mig welder....... let the nut glow red....wait for the heat to bleed into the casting..... when parlty cool torque gently back and forth until loose.... if nut breaks off weld another one.....

Good luck.

Bob

Another point to consider
 

The screws holding the back plates onto the pump body are usually staked in place against vibration by using a punch to drive some of the metal from the plate into the slot in the screw from the edge. If they overdid it this could be adding to your trouble. Heat should soften this as well. They might have used loctite or similar against vibration - heat tends to break that bond too.
I can't think of anything in the top corners of a Chev water pump that should be hurt by judiciously applied heat. Don't go so crazy with the torch that you melt the casting but you should be quite safe short of that.
You may be able to get enough heat from a propane torch as used for soldering domestic water pipe fittings but oxy-acetylene lets you put in more BTU/min and keep the heat more where you want it instead of spread so far through the whole casting (and perhaps cooking the lubricant in the bearing), possibly actually using less heat than the lower rate torch.

Filters
 

I think I have some of those electrical filters new old stock. Will check for you.

This is the type I have
 

Made in Canada

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...13252183550001


Part # 5810320

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...13252183520001

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...13252183460001

Price is $15 per pair plus postage if you'd like some. I do have more if anyone else is interested.

Condensor
 

Just checked the parts book - the one I have is for "first jobs" which I think means cab 11/12.

Filter
 

You could well be right - I have no way of checking them electronically!

Glass gasket
 

Hi Scott

The gasket on the glass itself is a standard flat tape like rubber which good sized Auto-Truck glass places should have. If you can not find that I've used the thick rubber tape used to seal underground electrical cable splices.

As to the gasket that goes in the channel of the frame to seal around the out side of the window frame to the body this is also a standard glass shop material sold by the foot or if you are doing a couple of trucks buy a spool box of it think it comes in 50' boxes.

Hope this helps.

Cheers Phil

I got all the rubber I needed at rare spairs. :cheers: