My Blitz's

Scott Hamilton · #1 22-05-11, 05:11

Just wishing to share my first Blitz trucks that I have just aquired.

Excited about my first restorations.

Still looking for builders plates so I can identify build date etc.

I also got in the deal - six rims/tyres, spare motor, canvas door, three fuel tanks, two spare doors.

Not sure how I plan to finish them of in regards to colour or rear body type.

As you can possibly see they are both Holden built bodies, ( rectangular side vents ) and the short wheel base version even still has the Holden badge on top of the engine cover.

Luke R · #2 22-05-11, 05:21

Looks like a good start for a resto project,
Looking forward to seeing it progress.

Luke

Keith Webb · #3 22-05-11, 06:14

The C15A looks like it has traces of it's ARN painted on the front shell under the windscreens. This is your best chance in the absence of data plates (usually on top of the dash) to establish what they were.

The second truck has the dished wheels fitted usually to C60S tippers, so that may be a clue as to it's former identity.

You'll find the chassis number stamped on the vertical face of the front left chassis rail.

Where are you located?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Just wishing to share my first Blitz trucks that I have just aquired.

Excited about my first restorations.

Still looking for buiders plates so I can identify build date etc.

I also got in the deal - six rims/tyres, spare motor, canvas door, three fuel tanks, two spare doors.

Not sure how I plan to finish them of in regards to colour or rear body type.

As you can possibly see they are both Holden built bodies, ( rectangular side vents ) and the short wheel base version even still has the Holden badge on top of the engine cover.

Keith Webb · #4 24-05-11, 11:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Has anyone seen the type of dash switch panel in the second photo ? All the photos I have come across do not show this type of switch panel.

This is a reasonably common conversion of the earlier dash to military instruments.

hrpearce · #5 24-05-11, 12:55

Hi Scott My C15A has that switch plate and I have seen a picture of one like it on MLU also on a C15A. With yours thats 3 I've seen with the five switches across the top. Mine has the insert with the round instruments as well.

hrpearce · #6 24-05-11, 13:02

The engines look like 216's to me going on the steam pipe on the back of the heads and the pivot point for the accelerator linkage behind the exhaust pipe.

Phil Waterman · #7 03-06-11, 23:45

Hi Scott

I've been driving my HUP for 30+ years with the original 216 as installed in 1945 the engine had never been apart until this year. See http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...AUL%202011.htm for explanation of why it is apart now.

Take a look at the engine pages on my web page to get a little more understanding of the 216 splash lubrication system.

The only real draw back is that the engine system was designed 70 years ago when road speeds were lower. Most of the problems people have had with the 216 is when they try to drive it at high speed 50 MPH and higher for long periods of time.

The other problem is the 84 hp is ok hauling a C15 around but has a little more trouble hauling C60 on the road, modern traffic doesn't understand that truck slow down on hills. Having said that I've never been on a trail ride that my HUP or C60L with the 216 they could not climb anything a jeep could climb they just do it slower.

Cheers

Grant Bowker · #8 04-06-11, 00:10

I agree it looks like a 216.
The steam fitting wasn't on commercial engines of the period (or any of the later 235 or 261 that could have been put in easily). Although they could have transplanted the steam fitting to a later engine they were more often tossed.
The tin cover for the push rods looks as if it extends to the height of the valve cover so that would make it a 216 or possibly a very early 235.
The valve cover with oil bath breather and fill point is a correct for CMP part. Again, if the engine was being changed odds are they would have used the valve cover from the replacement engine rather than going to the trouble of swapping the covers.
The carbs look to be Carter rather than Zenith or the Rochesters you would expect on late 235 or 261 engines.
You also have the period correct (3rd photo) takeoff below the carb for the brake booster, another part that often goes missing.
I think it all points to original CMP engines.
About the engines - By modern standards they are feeble for the weight but you already knew that. The "splash" lubrication system is criticized by many but seemed to work reasonably in it's day by flowing large volume at low pressure. Like every oil system dirt is an enemy as well as people who won't read the book when doing work on systems they aren't fully familiar with. Babbit bearings aren't as easy to replace as the newer insert bearings but went through a lot of abuse without leaving all owners stranded. I believe it is possible to convert engines from babbit to insert bearings (for a price) if you want to keep what looks to be an original engine but find the babbit bearings bad. There are also outfits who will redo babbit bearings, again it comes at a cost.
Keep in mind my comments are from the North American perspective, not Australian. I have no idea if later engines were the same wrt carb etc in both areas. Not sure why they would have been different, but it is possible.

hrpearce · #9 04-06-11, 00:50

Hi Scott, I still have the original 216 in my C15A 1943. Because I operate in steep country at low speeds I keep the sump 1L over full.

Ganmain Tony · #10 04-06-11, 01:30

Seems you Chevy guys need to experience the pressure fed system that came standard in a Ford Blitz.

That V8 really cant be beat....

hrpearce · #11 04-06-11, 02:18

Tony I don't operate too well under pressure being a nervious type

Mike Kelly · #12 18-06-11, 06:21

Scott

turn it upside down and give it a few sharp downward taps onto a piece of wood . The element should fall out

MIKE

hrpearce · #13 18-06-11, 07:45

Replacement element ryco R2374P fits but it comes with an O ring seal so you need to cut your owm gasket.

Phil Waterman · #14 18-06-11, 14:48

If the filters have not been changed particularly the ones mounted horizontal in the frame rail tend to get slugged in very tight. The one on my C60L I don't think had been changed and it had to be removed by pulling the filter apart after the little pull wire pulled out.

Be sure to check the filter housing carefully after cleaning mine had several little pin holes on the bottom side. These didn't show until the inside had been cleaned to bare metal and the paint removed from the out side. They were easily weld by drilling the pin holes out then making a curved brass backer plate. With that clamped tight to the inside mig welded the holes and ground it smooth. Pressure tested to 60 psi with water no leak.

In the US the correct size filter comes with two gaskets, I'll try to find the most recent application cross over and filter numbers. There are two sizes of filter units that I have encountered on my CMPs small early, large late.

Cheers Phil

Mike Kelly · #15 19-06-11, 07:08

Scott

I usually soak the air cleaners in kero or petrol , then blow it out with compressed air , being careful not to disturb the wire inside. Petrol is rather nasty stuff, try to avoid spashing it onto your skin if you use it as a solvent.

Mike Kelly · #16 26-06-11, 04:09

It's the same as a WW2 Jeep petrol filter . You might source a new element from one of the myriad Jeeps parts suppliers . But you might also get away with a good clean up , the element has lots of brass shim like things that you can dissassemble and clean .

MIKE

Little Jo · #17 26-06-11, 10:27

Scott

Your Fuel Filter is the same as on my 1942 MB Jeep. When I stripped it down I also had a lot of gunk in the bottom and it cleaned up really well and I spent a bit of time on cleaning the filter and all came up OK and I have not had any problems so far.

Cheers

Tony

Mike Kelly · #18 10-07-11, 04:46

The fuel sender units normally just need a clean up. You test them with a multimeter ..if you havent got one, they are a basic electrical test instrument .A cheap one will be OK for automotive use.

You place the multimeter leads on the wire resistor inside the sender and move the arm up and down and watch the resistance on the meter. Usually, you want it from around 1 to 50 ohms but it varies with different senders.

read this http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/

The toggle switches look nice !

Mike

Mike Kelly · #19 10-07-11, 05:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Is there a way of testing without opening the unit? and where would I need to place the test leads of the multimeter?

Hi Scott

I'm sorry if i mislead you... I'm used to the LUCAS senders , you can remove the lid on them and get to the innards

OK the GM delco remy ? units . Yes you can test it without pulling it apart.

Put one lead on the HOT 6V connection and the other lead anywhere on the sender body , make sure the connections are clean . Thats it ..simple.

Sometimes the wire resistor and the wiper inside becomes oxidised and intermittent ..you may have to drill rivets to pull it to bits and clean it if it needs it.

One important thing to remember is: the sender and gauge rely on the truck body for a earth return ..It's far better to provide a seperate earth return wire for the sender to gauge unit in the dash ... just use one of the sender mount screws and run the earth wire alongside the HOT wire to the gauge where it is screwed onto the gauge earth mount

Mike

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #20 10-07-11, 06:14

Hi Scott - looking at your images of the switch plates I am not sure whether they are correct. You need to remove them to see if my attached image fits.

The switches you are asking about, I am on my second box of fifty. Again look at my switch image where you can see five out of the six are Off/On switches whereas the Gas Switch is an On/On switch that took me over a year to source. There are plenty of On/On Bat Handle toggle switches but not Ball Handle. I have also replicated the small switch plates. I have a couple of complete sets left but then I am out of the On/On switch until I can find some more. On the other hand if you require the large switch plates, I have provisions for those as well. The only difference with the old and new switches is that the On/Off toggle does not stop in the centre. It rests above and below centre respectively.

Bob

Mike Kelly · #21 10-07-11, 06:36

A common problem with sender units is: the rotating shaft has to make a earth connection to the sender units body .. Sometimes that shaft doesn't touch the body cleanly ..it's a intermittent connection as it rotates . Make sure you are touching the actual body of the sender with the probe , not just the shaft itself . If you are touching just the shaft, then your getting misleading results

AC= Albert Champion , the modern spark plug inverntor .... I think I am correct.

hrpearce · #22 10-07-11, 10:35

Scott when I got my C15A the plate was black.

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #23 10-07-11, 12:27

Hi Robert - well here is something new to me. I have never seen this configuration of switch plate. I would love to get my hands on one of these to see if I can replicate it.

Bob

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #24 10-07-11, 12:46

PM sent.

Bob

hrpearce · #25 10-07-11, 13:55

Bob check out the thread Robert Pearce starts to restore post #91 to #94.
The plate is about 1/16" and the lettering embosed from behind.
I realy hope to have the blitz at Corowa 2012.

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #26 11-07-11, 10:18

Hi Robert - I remember it now but never did anything further with it. What I need is to see, touch and smell this plate to see if it feasible to replicate it. Any offers of a loan?

Bob

hrpearce · #27 11-07-11, 12:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Moseley

Hi Robert - I remember it now but never did anything further with it. What I need is to see, touch and smell this plate to see if it feasible to replicate it. Any offers of a loan?

Bob

Shore I'll pop the blitz into an express box, you may have to pay excess weight.

Jeff Gordon · #28 17-07-11, 11:22

Hi Scott,
Where are you located?
We have a good swap meet in October at Canungra in Queensland.
I have a few parts that are looking for a new home.
Is there anything in particular you are looking for?
Cheers
Jeff

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #29 23-07-11, 12:19

Hi Scott - what a brilliant range these people have. I will bookmark them.

Robert - have you sent the switch plate yet?

Bob

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #30 29-07-11, 06:14

Hi Scott - my instrument technician can rebuild these @ $230. I have several dead gauges suitable for rebuild and can supply him with my dead ones. They are complete with the bulb holder that screws into the block. He does any length capilary. I then just put a new face on to the gauge face.

Bob

Sorry Scott - I forgot you had round gauges. To extend the capilary length one would need to cut the original tube thereby losing the contents. A new, longer capilary would then be fitted and the whole thing re-gassed, or whatever he does. The cost would be the same.