Shane
 

I'll post a bit on your thread if you like.

I also forgot to say superb job to Gordon and enjoying your thread and pictures.

Can never have enough pictures...

Tony
 

Mate that would be great. Cheers Shane :salute:

cleaning bolts
 

How do other people clean up their bolts? I don't have a sand blaster that will do the job and had too come up with a plan B. We had a cement mixer sitting here and I tried putting the hardware in the mixer with water and stone as an experiment. It may take a few hours but seems to work well. I rattle things around till the rust and paint are gone, wash up with water and soak the hardware in oil till I'm ready to prime and paint.

I use a rock tumbler I picked up at a garage sale.
Sand medium was good but I emptied out a couple of 12 gauge STEEL shotgun shells, not lead and that worked great and much faster than the sand. Different mediums are available I just used what I had.

Harry.

Nice find and very handy. Similar equipment is also available at gun shops for polishing up brass casings.

David

good news
 

I have been working away on little bits and decided to see what the master cylinder and booster canister looked like. As Phil suggested, the booster internals where immaculate, the inside cleaned up with a scotch brit pad and there is no corrosion. Then the bonus round was the master cylinder, it has had a brass sleeve put into it.

Tony

Proper brake function is the number one priority for safety sake, for me. I may need some tutoring from you and Phil when I start to tune up the brake system. And, I'll try and remember to post more pictures for you.

Gord

Hey Dad

Does this mean for once you will have operational brakes on vehicle for its first road test?

smart ass
 

Neil

The truck never had an engine in it when it came. Hard to road test with that important item missing.

Dad

Don't you have hills in Goderich...?
 

...it would make one h*** of a soap box racer......

Happy to help
 

No worries Gordon, if I know the answer, more than happy to give it to you.

Again - superb job. It will be a terrific vehicle.

Brake Booster
 

Hi Gordon

If you have not already read Tony's thread you might want to take a look at the posts dealing with the booster. Speaks to replacement boots.

When I bench tested my units what I was particularly looking for was leak down of the vacuum. Primary leak problem areas are the little seat for the control rod and the seal were the vacuum chamber seals to the housing.

Doing anything with this little rod has to be done carefully.(I'm looking for the manual pages on the booster to post on line.)

To get the inline check value out of the picture as a leak source use a good ball valve so you can pull the vacuum on the unit and then turn of the valve and see how long it takes for the vacuum to start dropping. When everything is perfect it will hold the vacuum over night.

When you reassemble the big piston with the leather gasket be sure to soak the seal in oil. The manual also includes adding oil to the cylinder on a regular basis. They are correct about it needing oil added with mine I include putting several ounces in each spring when I do my preseason brake check.

Another point is to use a stiff oil resistant hose to connect the booster to the manifold. Heater hose will work at first but gets soft and will actually get sucked flat. Auto air conditioning flex hose seems to work well. (10+years) It is also easy to get, either new or used.

Cheers Phil

booster info
 

Phil

Thanks for the link to Tony's booster restoration,these units appear to very dependable. Because I never had an engine in the truck I have no idea how the booster tubing was routed and what connected it to the manifold. Could you please post several pictures of you how your truck is set up.

Gord

Booster Mounting Info to follow
 

Hi Gordon

Tomorrow I'll pick up a replacement digital camera and start taking photos. (My new camera died and they are replacing it.)

Have also found the manual pages you need and will post them as well.

Cheers Phil

bit more done
 

It has been a very hasty harvest season here, too much rain and too cold. It appears some crops may be abandoned to the winter snow if the weather doesn't turn drier. That's why not much to show on the truck, work got in the way, again.

I have just about every thing cleaned up and repainted ready to instal on the frame. I thought I should get the frame in the shop and the axles mounted before we start into the real snowy weather. Using the loader and slinging the axles with chains sure makes positioning the axle and u-bolts an easy job.

Gord

Gord: When the restoration is all done, and without insulting you, do you need a qualified driver for this vehicle whilst you drive one of your other treasures at various shows?

...or maybe even a co-driver?

help driving
 

Jon

As I recall you have come along for the ride in the 15 cwt , and that our trucks were very close in production numbers. You may have to come down to my part of the world to drive the C60 and very welcome to join in the fun.

There might be another Parade/ Celebration in Goderich in 2015, similar to the 2005 event. If it happens, come to that again and the C60 is yours for the day.



Gord

Three Ton, of fun!
 

Started pulling brake drums and my luck has run out. The rear drums are clean and in excellent condition. The rear brake shoes measure 5/16 " of thickness.

The front brake drums were not quite as happy an experience. I've heard people talk about the larger three ton truck ball joints and never appreciated how different they were to the 15 cwt front ends. And I still don't appreciate the difference. I had to take the pitman arms off the ball joints to get a wrench on the lower brake shoe adjusters. That doesn't seem like a good design.

The front brake shoes were drenched in oil/grease. The front oil seals have left a groove in the metal surface they mate to and that will need to be remedied, some how. The front drums were reluctant to come off and need some persuasion.

Here are a few pictures.

Look on the positive side.....
 

....they are not rusted.

It is npot unusual to have to release the brake adjustments to remove the drums..... however it must be a headache if you can't reach the adjusters.

Rusted is the worst...... guys at the barn will vouch for that. We had to use the torches to expend the drums and free the rust weld between the linings and the drum.... they were bone dry and filled with bees nest and cob webs.

For the cost and sake of your safety consider new lining even if they look thick and new..... you will never soak all the oil out of the linings. If you are lucky the seal is the same easy to find part...... do not go by part number but by dimensions. If you have a hard time finding them in Goderich I will look them up for you.

Which brings me to the fact that oil should not be dripping from the axle unless it was way over filled or you may have worn out inner seals. Drain that axle before you do anything else.... just remember to refill next Spring when you get ready to drive it...... you will have to remove the brake plate to see if that particular axle does have the inner seals.

If you go with new front linings bring your drum in to have them arced so they will mate perfectly with the new surfaced drum...... if they ask you what is the minimum the drums can be turned...tell them not to worry and remove just enough to get a clean surface.... those drums are way thicker than modern stuff.

How were the seals on the real axle.....?

I hope you have strong arms when that drum releases...... we have copied Phil W. and suspend our brake drums with a wide cargo strap attached to the overhead crane....makes re-installing a lot easier and reduces chances of damaging the new seals.... I know the rear ones are really heavy.

Keep us informed of your tribulations....

Bob C

Handling Brake Drums Alone
 

Gordon here is a link to how I handle the break drums using hoist and engine leveling hoist bar.

http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/R...lure%20001.jpg

Using this approach I can handle removing and installing not only the brake drums but the entire front knuckle assembly as a unit with the drum. Advantage is you can position the unit level and slide it in with out damaging the seals. The chain hanging down form the out side end is for more counter weight if needed.

Now to the brake shoes, as Bob suggested if they are greasy have them relined at a heavy truck or equipment brake shop. Ask them for a soft lining as it is easier to reline the shoes again then find new drums. Besides a softer lining will be more like the original asbestos ones.

Cheers Phil

I seem to recall that the original double leather seals wore grooves in the hub. All 60s that I've seen had evidence of this.. My orig shoes were soaked....as others say, new linings are the only way to go.

New rubber seals are avail..but not cheap! I think there's actually room for doubling the outer seals if you really want to go that route, although not sure that's entirely necessary.

Dont know if this has already been asked..but did this truck come from Niagara?

Large oil seals.....
 

Hi Gord

Can you post picture and dimension of front seal.....ID....OD thickness

IF they are the same as the smaller axles ...approx 6.5 in. they were $19.95 and easily available in 48 hours. All the new seals are rubber/neoprene like and usually thinner in cross section this may allow you to install deeper over a smoother area of the hub.

According to the bearing / seal guys they were currently used in the industry in particular large bread making machine.

Bob C

seals
 

Bob

Thanks for the info on the seals. As Marc has said the leather seals cut a groove in the steel. I'm other wise engaged at the moment and haven't gotten into there brake drums and seals. When I do start mucking into the grease and oil I'll be in touch about seal sizes and info.

Barry Churcher has sent me the info on his brake repair shop, and extremely glad of that help. My usual source for repairs thought their go to repair shop price quote was a rip off. Thanks Barry!

What's happening at the Hammond Barn since you retired, too busy too get down to the barn?

Gord

Busy little bees.....
 

Never been so busy...... went a bit wild on the firewood job....cutting enough for the next 2 years..... had a lot of things to catch up to around the house.... and for a change of pace repaired two old Allis tractors..... which left very little time for the CMP..... now setting up a radio shack in the sunroom we seldom now use. Hoping to learn how to use my 19 sets.....sort out all the cabling....possibly repair some.....

Grant finished doing the cancer repair on his cab 13..... remove the lower bottom section below the rear window and using a combination body glue / butt welds with the MIG and a glazing with J-B Weld did a super repair job..... very tricky since both sides of the sheet metal is visible inside and outside.

Grant purchased one of those rolling bead machines...... knowing that they woudl distort using the 18 gauge..... but following U tube recommendations for addidiontal bracing of the tool ....produced some very good offset for the bottom of the sheet metal that overlaps the lower half of the cab.

Since every Winter the ice/snow buildup damages the barn chimney we fabricated a sheet metal "dormer" or an upside down boat prow....built on the ground disassembled.... raised the parts to the roof and re-assembled.... so far Lucifer has not complained. I hope it will split the snow load and redirect around the chimney base.

Otherwise I do breakfast for Joyce every morning before she goes to work, dishes and laundry in my spare time.....

....... actually not spending as much time at the barn, proportionately, compared to when I was working 5 days a week.....

Life is sweet.

Bob C

updates
 

Well the holiday season, and all its distractions, is past and I have gotten back at the truck. Just trying to get the oil seals for the front axle sorted and the parts will all be here soon. While I'm waiting on parts I have been bolting things back onto the frame and doing small assemblies. The dog house was one project that need a bit of work. I knew I would never find the round cover assemblies and made two up. The instrument panel needs new switch plates and I have gauges on order.
I'm fortunate to have a shop I can heat, so here is a few pictures of the progress I've made.

Gord

Congrats.....
 

....on braving the cold and installing your engine.

Are you planning to prime the oil system using a drill into the dizzy hole..?

How did the reassembly of the front axle go?

Bob C

winter
 

Bob

I haven't gotten all the parts I need for reassembling the front axle yet, the highways are just being reopened to traffic late today, where closed since Monday. Maybe I'll get everything I need by next week.

The engine has been primed with a drill and the valve lifters have had an initial setting. There has been lots of oil run up through the engine and it shouldn't be a dry start up. I can pull the spark plugs and run the starter over to re-prime before starting.

I managed to get the engine set on the frame before the big blow started too develop. If I hadn't moved the engine then I would have to move 5 feet of snow from in front of the door it came out of. There wasn't a huge rush to have it in the frame, Im just familiar with what Lake Huron can dump on us in January.

Gord

a good week
 

Thing have been moving along on the truck. The oil seals came this week and two of us man handled the axle assemblies back into the axle housings with out any trouble. I can now finish the front brake lines and shoes. The brake booster is all back in place and ready too test. We set the cab base back on, after the axles were in place. So now it's on to the wiring harness and get the engine ready too start up.
It's the middle of January, spring will start to loom up sooner than we think. I need to have most of this project done by April 18, so there is an imperative.

updates
 

I have been getting thing put back onto the chassis and off the shop floor. Makes things look much tidier and less of a shambles. All the brakes and brake drums are back together and mounted. I mounted the tires ( thanks Rob ) on the rims yesterday and today and have them on the axles. Now I can push the chassis back away from the door and access the front of the cab and engine.

The next big push is to mount the wiring harness and the radiator. When that is done I'll start the engine and see how well it runs. If you notice the left gas tank is missing, it is away getting the fuel fill spout moved to the proper location and hope to have it back soon.

Gordon

Nice job.......
 

...glad to see you still have firewood left.

So far this Winter I have burned more wood then usual......bitter cold and windy which tends to cool the house more.... approx 30% more... for the first time I may need to dip into the reserve firewood which is in cribs neatly cocconed from the snow.

Still minus 24C last night ...... spent 3 hours blowing snow around today in bright sunshine....... blow it here from there then wait for the wind to redistribute the stuff again.

....but Spring is coming.

Ooops power just went out......

Bob C signing off on batteries

There's a company in London On. that makes the replacement decals for the switch plates. They did them up for our truck and can be seen here. Just scroll down through the photos and you'll find them.
Rob

http://www.canmilair.com/restoration%20gallery.htm