Hi Andrew,

Am fine thanks. There is another guy in town who may be able to help, but never open when I go there, give me a call sometime and I tell you where. I will check if my tooling does 1/2" tomorrow.

No doubt about it, yours will be on the road before mine :(

Andrew
 

Can you put up a picture of the pipe ends? Are they not (Weatherhead?)fittings with an end sweated on to the pipe with silver solder (easyflo)
Much cheaper than a 250 pound flare tool.

Andrew
 

These are Weatherhead fittings the dark nut is an original from a U.C. These were used in most carriers The Ferrule has a 1/2" bore to sweat onto a 1/2" o.d. pipe.

Ignore the crank handle cap.

hi Lynn,

Your photos look to show BSP pipe nipples. After talking to Andrew yesterday, he required flares on the pipes (opposite to cone nipples), which would sound right for a US made vehicle as that is the normal type of fitting used (JIC type with NF threads usually). As the Canadian carrier was based on a British design, did they not replicate parts and fittings? There are obviously detail differences between a US built T16 and the British designed Carrier and they cannot be compared on all details.

regards, Richard

Richard
 

I am not familiar with the t16. I have no idea what Ford U.S.A. decided to continue with or change. I was merely showing that these fittings are still available and were used in the earlier carriers.
On the 31st Aug. Andrew mentioned the "special threads the T16 has" I was wondering if maybe the manufacturers had stuck with BSF.

thanks Guys, sorry I missed these updates. I should have responded to you Lynn, in that as Richard says, they are double flared fittings, much like a standard automotive brake pipe. The problem has now moved on! I can flare the ends in 1/2 inch but trying to bend the pipe in the intricate shape required to fit the vehicle has proven a tad tricky. I have however, left it with someone who is going to have a go at it for me. I only hope its not going to be one of those 2 month jobbies where you have to go and fetch it back as he has not looked at it yet! I am completely held up as nothing much can go in the engine bay without the pipes for the coolers being in. I will report back. Thanks for the thoughts.

Andrew, if you get stuck, I can bend 1/2" od pipe and I could do it while you wait. That assumes of course it is possible in my tooling......!

hi Adrian, thats very kind of you. I will bear that in mind if these guys cannot achive it. It cannot be beyond the wit of man! will be in touch if needs be cheers Andrew

having waited for what seemed an age, I have now received the front seal and carbon rope seal for the rear main from the US and have put the engine back together and today, she found her way back home. Lets hope it runs ok. I decided its almost easier to mount it in the T16 to test run it rather than build a suitable cradle. Anyway, hope to run it in the next few days, but still got to do a load of bits and bobs first. Here are some photos .

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC07211.jpg

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC07214.jpg

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC07215.jpg

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC07216.jpg

looking good !

thanks Richard, and so is your Universal, you are well under way too. Lets hope the T16 runs ok, this is rather a public way of failing. if indeed I have done something wrong! Will try to do a video of the first start!

No such word as failure...just early attempts at success.... if mine blows up...so be it :) how come you did'nt paint the heads ? just wondering as i have painted mine (if it has any effect with heat etc i will strip the paint back off)

really nice job you're doing there but there's a problem with you're restoration techniques, it looks too good. can you put a bit more gaffer tape and bodged up fittings on the next pics so i don't feel left out :giveup

rick

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ! you may not want to look at Davids T16 then...IMHO the bench mark for any carrier restoration ;)

Ha, indeed I agree with you on Davids T16, ,what a result and an inspiration for me. In fact, he has helped enormously with information and guidance.

I would liek to say there is a special reason for not painting the heads.......but there isnt. I just ran out of time, and wanted to make use of a farmers loader this weekend. I will paint them once its all in ok. thanks for the comments as always, much appreciated.

ok so she runs, and at the moment, she runs well. Have sorted out the timing, and subject to a full run all seems well. Hoping to take her for a run around the fields very soon.

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC07255.jpg

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC07253.jpg

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/w...DSC07207-1.jpg

Did you get those pipes bent up that you mentioned earlier ? if you get stuck i can suggest a method involving silver sand ;)

hi Rich. all ok I hope? I did not have to go to the trouble of bending the pipe as yet, but there may be a need soon. The pipes were serviceable but maybe i will need some help in the future. Fingers crossed for an oil free belly! They should be ok, now. I can always replace with rubber if needs be though thx

no probs, i saw some stainless pipework bent up by packing it full of silver sand (rammed full) crimp the ends of the pipe then anneal the metal... then slowly start to bend it to shape.. the process is the same for copper too... was really interesting to watch !

glad its coming together for you

Engine running
 

been experimenting with YouTube so here is the clip of the engine running but sadly the true sound doesnt come out. May try with a proper video camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqjmeAIlxF0

Looks to be coming together nicely. For the radiator shroud, check with Shaver in Arizona as he had made reproductions of the two narrow strips that go along the sides of the radiator and the armour. Won't fix your problem for boxing in the fan area but at least it would force the air to be pulled in through the radiator and not around it.

I will drop Rod a mail and see what he has. I do have the patterns for these and can make them I think quite easily. Will check. thanks

i like the youtube footage, now the engines in and running it almost looks finished :thup2:
when do you think you'll be able to test drive it ?

rick

well I am hoping to get it sorted for a run this weekend. But its been running on temporary electrics and fuel and I need to tighten the tracks etc. So all in all I have a few hours of fiddling to get it going.

Get some Motorcycle race cans on there the neighbours will love it ! hahahahahahaha.

she ticks over a beaut i reckon you could stand a 50p piece on there with her running ! great job credit where credit is due !

thanks Rich. It should sound better once I close off the advance and retard vacuum pick up on the inlet manifold. Thats open at the moment, as I am trying to sort out a pipe for it, but if you put your finger over it, it sounds even smoother. To be fair, its a brand new carburettor straight out of the box so I have not set it up at all as of yet. I need to give it a good run and see what it does, and what the mixture is like, but frankly a bit reluctant to start fiddling with it at the moment.

The exhausts are straight through silencers with baffling to the sides, in other words you can see right through them, and I reckon it should sound pretty mean once its all enclosed and put back together. The Ford Flathead V8 MUST be one of the best sounding engines of all time. I was on an historic car rally a while back and out of 105 entries the car that did it for me, was a prewar Ford two door coupe with a very sexy flathead V8 and well made exhaust. Boy did it sound good!

so things are coming along very well, I have just made a bracket to carry the modern style 12v coil on the cylinder head, right bank. This is copied from the UK post war style 12 v coil adaption. I was talking with a friend the other day who had experience of the T16 and he told me it will only be a matter of time before the diving helmet distributor breaks down! cheery chap he is. He reckons I should fit the post wear Lucas distributor but stay away from the crab style which is even worse than the diving helmet! I must say that so far, the Diver has not given me any hassle at all and maybe that will change but I am prepared to assume that Ford USA worked it out before producing 13,000 with faulty distributors. If there is a problem with these, I imagine it must relate to the rotor arms or distributor caps etc?
Have received my wiring harness from the States and am gradually working through the wiring harness to make sure its all in the right place! The engine is running very nicely but I still have one leaking water pump. Now, I have not confirmed for sure where it is leaking from, but I am pretty sure its from the centre bolt, not the hidden bolt but the one above it. I recall reading somewhere that when you put this into the block you should silicone it. I didnt! can anyone tell me whether I should whip it out and add some sealant? It may be leaking from the gland and dripping down and appearing to leak from this bolt but I dont think so. Oil pressure is bang on the TM figures which seems low, but is between 25 and 30 lbs when hot which is what mine is achieving.

I reckon to be about 2 days work from being able to take it for a run around the fields , so watch out for the U tube video!

Andrew
 

My understanding is that the football/ divers helmet is the hardest to work on , but a very good distributor. The crab dizzy works well, and is a little easier to work on. The Lucas dizzy has ball bearings and is also a good distributor. the worst one design wise was the " up the top" 8ba dizzy, which of course is the easiest to get to.
If you find a scource of new caps and rotors for the Lucas dizzy,that costs less than moon beams, can you let me know

According to Tony Smith, (a very knowledgeable chap that used to be on this forum) the Ford coil is very unreliable, and even a new old stock one is likely to be faulty these days. Terry Creighton had trouble with new points in his divers helmet (?) dizzy, until Kenny Hughs, from Dunedin kindly supplied him with some good old contact sets. problem solved.
I also understand that condensors were made with some nasty component that has been dropped and that the later model ones are not as good.

If you are going away from the Ford 4 1/2 volt coil to a 6 volt or 12 volt set up, dont forget to bypass the resistor in the dash.
Note;that if you change your electrics from 6 volt to 12 volt, a different condensor is required.

We're 12-volt with the T-16 but they did originally have a 6-volt coil. A lot of people have smoked them when doing a restoration and trying to go back to the factory design. As Andrew said, he has adopted the late war/post war format of a 12-volt coil on a mounting bracket that stands off the head. Most British T-16s eventually went this way and all of them that survived Swiss service did as well.

So far I haven't had any issue with the divers helmet dizzy. I'd think it would be fairly durable since they stayed on the vehicles into their postwar service life and even the vehicles brought into the USA and converted into cut-down logging mules retained that pattern as opposed to something more modern. Still, it's a bitch to work on once everything is bolted on around the engine.

thanks Guys, any thoughts on the water pump leak?