Andrew
 

Above that bolt you are talking about is the hole that the water runs from, if the seal is leaking. This is to stop the water going into the bearing. This is most likely where the water is coming from.

T-16 coils
 

Andrew,
it has been quite awhile since I have been on this thread. Your T-16 is looking great! I am one of the guys David mentioned, that toasted a coil {or two} when first starting my engine. The original T-16s had a voltage reducer mounted on the left hand head assy, which cut the 12 volts down to 6 for the coil. I have never seen one except in photos.
I had my T-16 out today, and it runs so smooth! I hope to make it to Beltring next year, so maybe we can have a beer or two. Thanks Rod Shaver
PS Hey David, are you cashing in on that new race track in Austin?

T-16 water pumps
 

Andrew,
Forgot to mention I have some NOS water pumps, but can't guarantee that they won't leak. Not sure what I have exactly right now, but I know i have mostly one side available. Will check if you want= Rod

Hey Rod,

Good to hear from you even if it is in the middle of Andrew's message thread :) You aren't the only one that has let the magic smoke out of a 6-volt coil. I've come across several other people in the UK and Europe that were doing restorations and tried using un-regulated original top mounted coils before they figured out what had gone wrong.

The Formula 1 track and grounds are still under construction here in Austin. It will be a proper sized course for large races so should hopefully avoid a repeat of the recent accident at the track in your state. I'll probably only see races on TV though as I'm sure the price of admission would cost more than I'd be willing to pay. At least for the first few years while the facility is new and popular.

Can also say the water pumps Rod has are good for the T-16 but might need new double-belt pulleys which was the case with my set since they had the later late war/post war domed face double-belt type installed on them.

Race track in Austin
 

David,
Yeah, the pulleys have to be changed, but I think I have a pair of them. Looking forward to coming over to see a Formuls 1 race in the near future. The Viper club may even have a convention in that area in order to run on the track for a couple days. Wouldn"t that be fun. Maybe I will see you at Brents next March. Rod

hi Guys, thanks for the comments Rod, not sure why but I didnt get a notice that there had been a reply on the thread so hence I didnt get back to you. I managed today to pick up 2 NOS water pumps for T16, so I think I will be ok with these now. What is taxing me, however, is the blessed wiring!!! My gauges have minds of their own. I know I am wired correctly, but the temp gauge jumps full right when you connect up the senders, and the oil pressure just jumps around and does what it likes. They are fed through some resistor type item called a voltage divider, which I have no idea what it does! Any help much appreciated. Also, may need a NOS solonoid, as it only works if I tap it. It may clean itself off inside, but they dont appear to be a serviceable item, so cannot get inside easily to take a look. Grrr, I want to go for a run in my baby but cannot until I can get this wiring sorted!.

ps, Rod, sent you an e mail a few days back , maybe you didn't see it?

T-16 starter solenoid
 

Andrew,
I think I have starter solenoids for the T-16. Sounds like you may have a ground problem with the gauges. I think the gauges are 6 volt gauges, so, the voltage has to be cut down for them to work properly, hence the voltage divider as you call it. I will check on the solenoid and get back with you- Rod

thanks Rod, if you could that would be great as its knackering my knees having to turn the ignition on in the front and climb into the back to manually press the solonoid. Too old for this. Please check if you have any NOS instruments for T16 as well, cheers

on the gauges being 6v this is where it gets complicated! I have been told that they are 12v gauges but not many US gauges were marked with which voltage they were, hence the confusion. The TM refers to all electrical equipment being 12v EXCEPT the ignition, which rather points to the instruments being 12v. I have also been told, since my earlier post the voltage divider that is wired in line with the instruments power supply is in fact designed to stop the gauges going up and down with the variation of the charging system. Sounds credible, however, if thats the case , why do Jeeps, Dodges etc not have them? Maybe they do?

Hi Andrew,

I am sure the description of the resistance unit, on the wiring diagram says it all, a volt divider, bringing down the 12v sytem to presumably 6v for the guages, although when I checked the output with you, it was 9v, this may be because the resistor has suffered inside. I have looked around and cannot find any information to confirm the Volt Divider output.

regards, Richard

T-16 gauges
 

Andrew,
I have NOS Fuel gauges, oil press. gauges and temperature gauges, all for the T-16. They are $45 ea. I put new ones in my T-16 and they work great. I don't have any amp gauges right now. Rod

here are a few more photos of the voltage reducer for the feed to the 6v coil. Managed to pick one up so I could stick it on the head and make it look original even though we are not using it. I need the filter unit as i think the reducer bolts to that.

First drive
 

well, at last, and after 27 years since we last drove the T16, today she made 3 laps of the fields and didnt miss a beat. There are few problems, but hopefully nothing that cannot be sorted. Basically, one rear brake was binding, and the rope seal I put in the brake drum to stop water and dirt ingress spewed out all its graphite hrease. I dont know whether this has made its way onto the brake shoes but if so, its tracks back off and a set of new shoes, again. Enjoy the video, taken by my daughter so excuse the running to keep up!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_NAdHS0OHo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jy-VCbIo1Ws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23lM0PNxKzo

Well done Andrew. Looks like I visited a week too early!

Hope you got the wiring all sorted out now.

thanks Richard, yes almost sorted the wiring, well, not really but nothing that stops me from driving her. I was getting very bored so needed to get it out and drive it. Its odd, its not showing a charge on the ammeter, but after driving it around the field when restarting the starter spun over far faster than it has previously so i wonder if the ammeter is bust or wired the wrong way around. Anyway, no point in spoiling the party moaning over little things.

Actually, the worst thing in my view is the stuck and seized links on the tracks as this is making the drive very lumpy so to speak. In the first video you can see the track are seized as I come off the side of my barn. I just hope the free up without breaking a pin!

Andrew,

A simple check to see if it is charging is to check the battery voltage before you start up, then with it running at a fast idle, check again, if it is a higher reading, then that can assure you the problem is most possibly in the ammeter or its wiring.

thats a good idea Richard. I will try that the next time I go for a run with it. thanks

Good to see you have made it to the fun part Andrew :thup2: :cheers:

Andrew
 

Great to see. :thup2: :drunk: :salute:Why dont you oil those frozen links. Once they are moving again you can wash them. A bit of oil might help them free up, which has to be better than a pin breaking. (the brakes will always work better while the tracks are still on)

well Lynn, I had not thought of that to be honest!! I know that sounds stupid but I have always been told by my father that the tracks should not be oiled, but i suppose that when they are free. Ummh, what does everyone else think? I had been hoping that they will free of their own accord. I think they are better than they were for a brief run.

As Lynn says as long as its a short run and you jet wash all the oil out after you could be ok. better than soaking lengths of track in baths of Black strap molasses for a few weeks

Andrew,

Better to spray the tight links with something like Duck oil, or even diesel, as they will penetrate more. Oil will stick to the outside and attract dirt. My tractor and plant experience has always been not to oil the links.

well done mate, now you can start to get a little bit back from the old girl, the trouble is once it's running the resto might give way to some fun. it did for me, after going all out on my carrier for a year now it's running things have stopped i haven't even washed the mud of the tracks from beltring yet :D

all the best

rick

Andrew, Nice work there, Looks like you have plenty of space there to test drive in. I done 4 miles in my carrier today and had a similar issue with the brake drum seals, I dont know what the sealing arrangement is on a T16 carrier is, but its worth investing in a an infa red heat gun, if you have brake/seal problems you can use it to pin point the problem, my graphite impregnated seals are just packed in a little too tight (120 degrees) measured after 2 miles on the seal rim, without the gun i would of thought the brakes were binding, but its the seal generating the heat. its a quick fix too bed the seal in once you know what the problem is.

kev. :salute:

Kevin and Andrew,

I would have used a PTFE packing as it has a lower coefficient of friction and no lubricant to contaminate brake surfaces or attract abrasives to wear the seal path on the backplate. Original was a dry asbestos, so PTFE is a superior substitute.

regards, Richard

Videos look great.

Maybe just trying going back and forth on some hard ground. You may find that will help free up your tracks. If you still have links stuck try to limit tight turns as the track may not mesh properly. Id hate to see something get broken.

I remember when I first got my carrier going all constructive work stopped on it until the rad blew apart on me (literaly) I then got to "work" on it again.

Great comments from you all, thanks and glad you enjoyed seeing her run again. I certainly did. On of the problems with the frozen track links is that it makes for a very tight feeling as the tracks are not "flowing" around so to speak. This means that its got a lot of drag and unless you give it quite a bit of throttle it was wanting to slow up. Changing gear from 1st to 2nd was pretty much impossible as it lost inertia whilst you double de clutched. The issue with the brake seals is more of a worry, in the short term as I dont want the graphite grease compound to damage my brake shoes, but I fear they will. I didnt want to have to crack the tracks and remove the hubs again so soon. ah well, looks like I will have to . Kevin an infared heat gun sounds pretty high tech for me, but a great gadget. Did you use the same sort of gland material as me then? I knew mine were tight when I fitted them as the hub was pretty hard to turn but I figured that they would bed in. Richard, are you talking about the white coloured square section rope seal that I have seen in some shops for sale?

Hi Andrew,

That is the stuff, if you go in Kent Bearings in the Market, they have reels of it by the counter. Check out "PTFE packing" on google and you will see different types and sizes. Nothing wrong with a bit of space age technology in the old Carrier!

I looked at that when I bought the black stuff, but they didnt have it in the correct size and I didnt like white! So far its cost me £120 in Physio appointments after putting those tracks on myself, now I have to do it all over again.

Actually the asbestos packing that was in Ben's unused axle was white, and I am sure it will soon go grey in use.