F15A Brake Wheel Cylinder Size
 

Hi,
So as to have a definitive thread can someone please list the wheel cylinder sizes in this thread.
Happy to have all truck sizes.
I have not pulled mine apart and have LOST my notes about sizes and suppliers.
That might make it a lot easier in the future.

Ian.

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1814

WC4511 front 1-3/8
WC4571 rear 1-1/2

Master Cylinder (FORD) MC4572

The above numbers are Raybestos, but will cross over several other manufacturers.

See http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...039#post123039

HTH,
Hanno

Thanks fellas,

That's a start. I'm thinking that there's a few alternatives here in Oz. I will have to explore the possibilities. :)

Ian

F15A Wheel cylinder sizes
 

Hi Ian,

The following thread may be useful to you.

Of note in the thread is the potential problems with Spanish wheel cylinder cups.

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=24229]

Cheers,

No Size just numbers
 

So I am asking if they are 1" DIA or 1.5" or perhaps 1-3/4" Diameter of the slave pistons/cups?

Understand part numbers, but if I can get a definitive size then I may be able to help everyone here out. Sorry I can't pull mine off at the moment as I have another vehicle in front of it.

I think that they may be shared with several Ford trucks but I have to have a size. :bang:

Cheers,

Ian

As Rob Love has stated above, the front are 1 3/8", the rear 1 1/2", same on all CMP Ford and Chev 4x4s from 15cwt up to 60cwt (Note: Chev CMPs use the same Ford brake components in the wheels!). FGT and 60cwt also have brake boosters.

Smaller vehicles (F8, C8, C8A, C8AX, F15, C15) tend not to be standardised and are a mix of civvy truck components.

AH HAA, Thankyou Tony. Well 1 1/2" Is easy enough to get. Happy with that. Inch & 3/8" a little trickier.

Cheers,

Ian

Ian, if you go back up and follow the links to the information provided, you will find most if not all data you need. Please bear in mind it isn't only the piston bore size which matters, but also the dimensions and shape of the cylinders which have to fit the brake backing plate.

HTH,
Hanno

"Ian, if you go back up and follow the links to the information provided, you will find most if not all data you need. Please bear in mind it isn't only the piston bore size which matters, but also the dimensions and shape of the cylinders which have to fit the brake backing plate."

Thanks Hanno,

Well I am exploring the possibility of shifting to modern alternatives and the backing plate can be easily modified to fit a wheel cylinder. i.e. welded up and re-drilled if need be. I am then not restricted by the shape or fittings as these are the main issues with remaining in current configuration. It is very restrictive and an alternative may be possible.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I have a ways to go before I hit this part of the restoration. :)

Cheers,

Ian

O.k., I understand what you are saying. But surely brake cylinders which fit are available in your part of the world? Either re-sleeved originals, NOS, or newly made ones as listed earlier on?

Anyway, let us know what you come up with!

Cheers,
Hanno

Back on track
 

Thanks Hanno,

Yes you're right about sources, but I'm going to see what's out there as delivery from O/S can be rather expensive.

At least I can focus on the truck now after eternity of it sitting and patiently waiting for me to start. Well ten years!

Those who know me know I am no slouch on restorations. Though a sidevalve V8 and a separate transfer case has me slightly wary.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/s...psm1bxu5t0.jpg

Ian

As has been stated above, there have been many threads about these wheel cylinders before, and they are readily available, with cheap postage. For example: Rear Cylinder and Front Cylinder. Like you, I live in a regional area, and I can't drive to Sydney and back for that postage cost, and my local brake parts supplier (ie small/rural, only sells one of those every 10 years) can't match that total price.

As for modifying your backing plate to accept a modern replacement. I would only consider doing that if original design parts were completely unobtainable from any source. I have worked on vehicles that have had components sourced from a mish-mash of other sources, and there is nothing worse.

Have some consideration for the restorer who is going to be working on your vehicle in 25 years time as he (or she) tries to work out what exactly they have before him, and then tries to put together a 3 Tonne Iveco brake shoe with a Case-IH wheel cylinder filled with Isuzu Van cups and 90-97 Landcruiser boots and metric pipe unions on a 1/4" brake line. You really don't appreciate the accursed devilry involved until you encounter it :devil: :nono:(of course, on a Saturday after all the shops have closed! :doh:). Consider too, that what you choose today as a modern replacement may not be widely available in the future, while the vintage original still will be.

The original parts are available and reasonably cheaply, and everyone else will know what parts are on the vehicle and where to get them.

Ian, I'm with Tony. It'll probably cost you less to buy your cylinders and get them in your hands than to fill the truck with gas when it's finished.
That's something you'll do more than once.

Thanks Tony. Now THOSE look like a decent price. Trouble for me is I am searching for parts that people haven't identified clearly. One pet hate I have is paying for the wrong parts that people think are correct or good enough.

I am on the edge of my chair when I order parts for my F15A as the threads on here are hard to follow and search.

The good thing out of this is we have some good part numbers and suppliers. (what I really wanted) And I really am a stickler for brakes. Owning Land Rovers I know how hard they are to get 'right' and work well.
Cheers,

Ian