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  #1  
Old 03-03-13, 00:17
ozm29c ozm29c is offline
John W.
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Narrabri NSW Australia
Posts: 119
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Hi Tony,
My best advice to you is to give Allan or Gav Walker a ring at Jacobson's Automotive Engineering in Bundy. 07 4151 3036. They are close to you and I believe that they are well qualified to rebuild/repair your engine. BTW, Alan and Gav are well known engine rebuilders in the Aussi MV fraternity. They also organise the Bundy Amphib swim happening in June (Although I have had no word if the floods may force a cancellation this year). Do I have some connection with them , Yes, at the mo' I am having my Studebaker Weasel engine rebuilt by them (just waiting for a NOS crank out of Europe) and somehow we got to talking about Ford V8's and Alan did say that they can be very expensive to rebuild. From past experience I would steer clear of Repco Engine shops. Good for mass reconditioning but not so good on specialist one off tasks.
Good luck with your end decsion.
Cheers
John W.
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  #2  
Old 03-03-13, 10:10
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Cheers John!!!!

Cool, thanks John.

I'll give em a ring during the week, for sure.

I would never trust REPCO for anything. I would rather go to Supacheap than Repco, and that's saying something. You know what R.E.P.C.O stands for?? Rip Every Poor.......never mind

Bundaberg is probably only a couple of hours away, and i'd rather go in that direction than into Brisbane.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 03-03-13, 10:49
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Transmission selectors and cover finished

Gearbox top end finished 3.jpg
After going to the effort of making a new reverse latch thingy, I found a good original one today while pulling another box selcetor set apart. All I wanted was one little spring for a selector rod ball.
Gearbox top end finished 1.jpg Gearbox top end finished 2.jpg
It took all afternoon, but the selectors, lever and cover are now finished.
Gearbox mount 1.jpg
Having done that, I went on to start cleaning up the rear trans mount. The seal is to be replaced, but the rest seems to be quite OK.
Second gearbox 1.jpg
The box that I pulled apart today seems to be a good candidate for use as well, so now I have a choice. I'll work on cleaning both until one shows more promise. Back to the manual for how to pull em apart.

The gear lever moves easily, but doesn't shift the forks as it should. When paint is completely dry, i'll take a look, it'll be something simple..........I hope.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #4  
Old 04-03-13, 10:52
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Engine rebuilding

John W,

I phoned that place in Bundaberg this afternoon.

Spoke with Gavin, and must say I was very impressed with the time he took to discuss my requirements. Some of the talk went a little over my head, but that is a reflection lack of knowledge on the subject.

It will now be up to me to strip the parts from the block, and I will take the stuff up to them for cleaning and initial evaluation on which parts need refurbishing or replacement. I understand they are booked for weeks in advance, but thats no problem, it will work out well.

Thankyou for sending me their contact details.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #5  
Old 04-03-13, 22:37
ozm29c ozm29c is offline
John W.
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Narrabri NSW Australia
Posts: 119
Default

Hi Tony,
Glad to be of help.
Cheers
John W.
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  #6  
Old 05-03-13, 09:32
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Baby steps

A couple more pieces arrived today.
Gear boot as arrived.jpg gear boot test fit 1.jpg
So far, I have entirely failed to locate an original, and therefore correct CMP gear boot. This NOS one for a 1970s Cortina will do me just fine until the discovery happens. At least it's a Ford product
Exhaust hangers 1.jpg
Also received these two NOS exhaust hangers. One will make a reasonable copy of an original with some reworking. The other may not get used. Depends on how close to original I want to go.
New Odometer set.jpg
Finally, this NOS total odometer set will replace the one I have that I recovered with decals. Decals are fine if I had no choice, but this will be much more long lasting. I did a test fit on a spare speedo and they are a perfect fit.
Cleaned rear trans mount.jpg
The rear transmission mount is now fully cleaned & awaiting a replacement seal (01T-4813). I have located a source that will be supplying me two (one for a spare) for less than $25AUD. Shipping almost doubles the cost, but at total of $47AUD, that'll do me. Brand new, not NOS, these ones.

The seals were sourced from MIBearings in USA. Here is a link: http://mibearings.com/

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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 05-03-13 at 09:56.
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  #7  
Old 08-03-13, 23:29
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
VMVC
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Victoria Australia
Posts: 864
Default Exhaust hangers- original rear muffler

Quote:
Also received these two NOS exhaust hangers. One will make a reasonable copy of an original with some reworking. The other may not get used. Depends on how close to original I want to go.
This may be of interest:
Here's a photo of what I am 99% certain is the rear muffler to chassis hanger for Ford CMP trucks as I have seen the same on three vehicles this past week. Still, I have been wrong before here. I am in the process of straightening it out, but with the extremely hot weather here I do not want to fire up the "blue tongued lizard" (oxy-acetylene torch for non-Australian readers). No use scaring the neighbors!

Bending steel cold can only be done so many times before it snaps and it is not worth stuffing it up.

It mounts 6" behind the face of the transfer case cross-member in the lowest hole in the frame rail.

I am thinking it is the same dimensions, minus the bends, as the hard to find tailpipe bracket that attaches to the left rear fuel tank bracket. it is 1/16" thick, 1-1/4" wide, and 9-1/4" from the center of the clamp to the end.
Can anyone confirm if it is the same? If so, I will use it as a pattern to make that bracket.

Cheers,
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File Type: jpg IMG_5114.jpg (49.6 KB, 33 views)
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