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  #1  
Old 04-02-13, 09:07
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Ian

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Johns View Post
Nice job. Now if I could get you to come over here I have a long list of the things you could fabricate for me.
Sure, I would be happy to come help. It'll cost only an airfare and a CMP fuel/water tank.

Seriously, I will keep my eyes open for something similar to your tank. I like the look of a tank on a blitz. Wonder if I could slice one in half horazontally, and make it hinge open to be a campervan! Not a genuine one of course, modern equiv.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #2  
Old 05-02-13, 11:16
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Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Vintage mufflers

I have been looking at this vintage exhaust company in US, http://waldronexhaust.com/

They have round mufflers in 5 or 6" thickness, and any length up to 36", in aluminized steel, 16 GA for $80! Their checkout says shipping to Australia would be $25.
round short muffler.jpg
I'm asking for confirmation of shipping before I place order. I'll let you know if it is correct.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 06-02-13, 21:02
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Location: Victoria Australia
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Default Original Ford CMP muffler

Hi Tony,

After saying a few months back I've never seen an original muffler for a CMP vehicle, while visiting the Army Museum at Bandiana Vic. in December I spotted this one on a Ford Ambulance. This was the only Ford CMP truck on display.

Noted the domed ends as mentioned by you in an earlier post and another item worth noteing is the position of the inlet and outlets.

As viewed from the outlet end, the outlet is at the 3 o'clock position and the inlet, is as the 6 o'clock position. This is not readily apparent in the parts manuals.

Noted too that the exhaust pipe and muffler are one unit which is shown in the parts manuals too.

Cheers,
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  #4  
Old 11-02-13, 09:44
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Jacques

Thanks for the photo, Jacques. I'll save that one, if it's OK with you!

I was begining to believe there were no examples of the original muffler left in captivity!

Is there good security at the Army Museum? I have a fresh tin of black boot polish and a balaclava my mother knitted for me years ago.

I could re-live my pevious occupation as a 'cat burglar'. By the way......wanna buy a cat?

Actually, scratch that thought, the balaclava is pure wool and I couldn't stand wearing it, even to nick a genuine CMP muffler.

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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #5  
Old 11-02-13, 10:21
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Front axle & springs

On Sunday I hauled the front axle assembly around to the workshop entrance and started pulling the thing apart. First I had to kill the small brown snake that was living underneath. Removed the wheels/tyres, got off the springs, and gave em a good look over for any damage.
Front springs 1.jpg Front spring leaf clamps buggered 1.jpg
Spring sets were OK, but half of all the leaf retaining clamps were either broken or missing entirely. Damn! Guess I call on the springworks for a quote. All the clamps looked to be original, but one end of each set had brackets formed around the leaves, the other end of both had ones with a bolt. Puzzling!
Front springs missing bushes.jpg
I also need two new bushes for the front of each spring set. I always make a point of keeping any parts together when I disassemble something, but I CANNOT find these bushes anywhere. I don't recall noting they were missing originally, but also don't recall removing them when I pulled the front axle and suspension off the chassis some time ago. Once again......puzzling!
Steering joint 1.jpg
I attempted removal of the steering components, but this bolt won't come out. Maintenence manual says to whack the arm it's attached to, and it'll come out, but I only read this in the evening once I had stopped work, so I have not tried this so far.
Front axle assembly 1.jpg
A good read of the manual last night, has enlightened me on how to remove the pivoting part of the axle, which I will get done next weekend....I hope. It is already obvious that some of the seals are worn out, because when I tipped the axle to one side when removing the wheels, oil came out the pivot assembly. That means another shopping list for Ross Prince, for new seals.

Also found that this vehicle had the two part pivot seal retaining assembly, and for this I am truely thankful. It should make replacing the pivot oil seals a little easier. In theory, that is.

Look at the area just left of the diff housing. You can just see the brake line 'T' connector. What I want to know is what the hell is that long flat rod sticking out from it??? It is attached by the same bolt that holds the 'T' to the diff housing, and I have NO idea what, if anything, it is there for. Any ideas? If it's not supposed to be there, I would love to remove the bloody thing, as it poses a safety hazard to my shins and ankles.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 11-02-13 at 10:28.
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  #6  
Old 11-02-13, 22:42
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Diff housing rod?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Look at the area just left of the diff housing. You can just see the brake line 'T' connector. What I want to know is what the hell is that long flat rod sticking out from it??? It is attached by the same bolt that holds the 'T' to the diff housing, and I have NO idea what, if anything, it is there for. Any ideas? If it's not supposed to be there, I would love to remove the bloody thing, as it poses a safety hazard to my shins and ankles.
Tony,

I'd say it is just a add-on by someone to try to keep the steering ends from turning.

Maybe the diff was off a home made crane setup using two front ends as was sometimes done. That rod would help to keep the wheels in the straight ahead position if the owner found he didn't want to look after two steering wheels while using the crane.

Turf it- it's not required or original!

Cheers,
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  #7  
Old 12-02-13, 02:33
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Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques Reed View Post

Turf it- it's not required or original!
Good, consider it gone!

Thanks,
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #8  
Old 11-02-13, 21:25
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Original Ford CMP muffler/tie rod end removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Thanks for the photo, Jacques. I'll save that one, if it's OK with you!
No problems Tony, One picture worth a thousand words when dealing with suppliers.

Have included another one for you here of the front end of the muffler showing the 6 o'clock position of the inlet.

Noted in your later post removal of steering tie rod end bolt.
Manual is right and it does work. A good whack on the side of the part holding the tapered pin should remove it.

All tapered parts respond to this method including car ball joints. Whacking the threaded end, even if protected, usually accomplishes nothing.

Cheers,
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  #9  
Old 20-02-13, 06:24
Ian Johns Ian Johns is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Georgina Military Museum Keswick
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Sure, I would be happy to come help. It'll cost only an airfare and a CMP fuel/water tank.

Seriously, I will keep my eyes open for something similar to your tank. I like the look of a tank on a blitz. Wonder if I could slice one in half horazontally, and make it hinge open to be a campervan! Not a genuine one of course, modern equiv.
If you find the 350 gallon tank it will give you a little more room to stretch out.
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