Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Shane]

Your a good man Tony.

Mine is the same as yours, without the Heavy Vehicle stamped on it. When i say mine it will be for $65 it has already been polished and is in good condition. It looks like it was situated between the seats about half way up the cab, not sure if there was a specific place they put them in the cab. I only assume mine goes between the seats as there are three vertical holes which i guess was where the fire extinguisher bracket went(could be wrong it wouldn't be the first time) What are your thoughts on that?

Thanks again Tony

[Private_collector]

Weather quite overcast today. Poor light under the truck where I would be working on emergency brake, so I went on to other things.

Pulled the pressure plate assembly apart to inspect for any damage. Nothing broken or bent, but I did pull another assembly apart, to use the plate that was best of the two. After a lot of cleaning and a little light sanding of the face, everything came up quite well.

Freshened all the bits, and they are now ready to go back together when I get the chance. Won't need to purchase anything. Not a single bolt.

[Private_collector]

On Wednesday I removed the rear drive shaft from the other truck.

I was immediately aware that the rear uni joint was different to those I have already installed on front axle prop shaft and shaft from gearbox to transfer case. The locking of the uni joint ends are on the inside of the cups, nearer to the uni spider. All the others lock on the outside of each cup. Is this even for a Ford? Doesn't look like anything in the manual. Is the rear shaft same diameter tube as front? This one is, but I would have expected thicker than front! If this thing is NOT Ford, then I am in trouble again. I have a badly butchered piece of thicker shaft, which had been cut to about 3'. It has a uni (larger than front ones) on one end, but I don't believe I have the other section. Just another example of getting incomplete parts from the guy I bought the truck from.

This is the different type of uni that was on one end of the narrower shaft. That one was complete, but too long (expected that) and will not attach to the coupling part on rear diff.

On another topic.

The radiator is temporarily in place. It's only there because that is probably th safest place for it to be. If I put it back into storage, it would be likely to become damaged.

[Private_collector]

Some weeks ago I bought a new clutch plate from MacsAuto.

It's a nice piece, but I notice the new one has a slightly thinner profile than the original.
There would be approx 3/8" difference.
Will that cause any issues???

[Private_collector]

With the day nearly over, I got out the boroscope and investigated the oil passages from the pump.

There are two plates which need to be made, to block off where French blocks had a governer (very top of photo, with 2 studs seen), and what has been described as a 'rev counter' (the opening facing camera, with two threaded holes diagonally set). That should not be a problem. The lower threaded hole on vertical surface is where the oil sender goes. The one above it, on horazontal surface is for oil line to/from filter..........at least I THINK it is. The other oil line hole is just visable on right side of where I will block off the diagonal holes. I have no idea which one goes to oil filter, and which one is from the filter, but it should dawn on me at some point.........I hope! No idea what the plugged hole was for, nor do I know why there is another plugged hole further down the side of the block. You can just see it, bottom left of the photo.

This is the shaft where oil pump would sit. The hole on left side goes to the oil pressure sender. The hole on right looks to lead to the rear main bearing. I will confirm that by passing a thin piece of welding wire through, and look for it to appear where I took this photo from.

This is the oil hole coming to rear main bearing. I gather this also feeds oil along the crank?

Thats it. No more.........I promise!

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

On another topic.
Attachment 65778
The radiator is temporarily in place. It's only there because that is probably th safest place for it to be. If I put it back into storage, it would be likely to become damaged.

You may have already said something about the radiator on here Tony but I'll ask anyway...

Was there much work needed? How much did it cost? Who did it?

[Private_collector]

Hi G.T,

I have only cleaned and repainted the radiator myself. It is leak free unpressurised. It was rebuilt by a company in Maryborough (now defunct) many, many years ago. Chap I bought it from told me it was put into a truck, but the truck itself was then not used again. Hence the radiator is pretty good. I did spend about 30 minutes straightening a number of slightly bent copper fins. Couldn't help myself, but they could have easily been left as was!

Don't choke when I tell you this, it cost me $60. My mate (now Late, Paddy) only wanted scrap value for it. I did double check I had heard him right. He said he knew it was worth more, but just wanted to see it used and saved from a death worse than fate.

Last week I ordered a pair of steel upper hoses from USA. There is a chance they may fit as is, but could also require some work to get the angles right. Won't know until I get them and measure. Thought long and hard about just using rubber for entire upper hoses, but considered that to be too much of a compromise.

[Keith Webb]

I can hear choking sounds coming from Ganmain!

[Private_collector]

I don't know, Keith. Can't hear anything from Ganmain now.

Tony may have arrested! Call the Code.

[Shane]

Im a little sad about Tony, however first call on his truck. He will turn over in his grave when i put SA plates on her.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I have no idea which one goes to oil filter, and which one is from the filter, but it should dawn on me at some point.

See pic below Tony. Looks like the filtered oil lubricates the governor drive gear before draining into the sump. On the CMP it's plumbed directly into the sump.

Something to be aware of with bypass filtration is that there needs to some restriction of flow, otherwise all the oil will go through the filter and none through the motor, esp. if there's no cartridge fitted. Presumably there's a restrictor in the filter inlet, ie. on the side of the filter housing. I'm not familiar with the fittings myself but it's something to confirm before assembly. Hopefully someone here can advise.

The two plugged passages are interesting, they could just be access holes for machining, or perhaps they're for flushing the system. I really don't have a clue to be honest.

Re crankshaft, it's only the rear main bearing that's fed directly from the oil pump, and from there to No.4 crankpin through a diagonal passage in the crankshaft itself. The rest of the crankshaft is fed from the main oil passage which runs along the top of the camshaft. There's a good diagram in Section C. Lubrication in the manual, the only difference being the full flow configuration.

[Private_collector]

Thanks Tony.

Now I understand it.

[Ryan]

It may be that I'm still in bed and it's early, but how is that flathead sitting there in the chassis rails without the gearbox connected? Isn't it only connected by the water pumps?

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Ryan

It may be that I'm still in bed and it's early, but how is that flathead sitting there in the chassis rails without the gearbox connected? Isn't it only connected by the water pumps?

There was a red gum stump or two lying on their sides supporting the rear of the engine as I recall, they are just out of sight. How do I know? I took that picture!

[Ryan]

Thanks Keith. Was it an ok set up for test running the engine? And do you have more pics from that run showing the other sides of the engine?

[Tony Wheeler]

Ryan, these are the only other photos of the motor, also taken by Keith. Unfortunately my own photos from the '70s were all destroyed, however the majority of our photos we're essentially duplicates, as we did most of our blitz hunting together.

The test bed was the original F60L chassis, which as you can see was damaged and bent at the rear. Note the hi-tech redgum stands, all handsawn and nailed together! I chopped the chassis off behind the gearbox crossmember, and looking at those reinforcement plates now I shudder to think how long it took me with a hacksaw! They make an ideal engine stand / test bed, because they're strong and stable and everything bolts straight on, including the radiator and gearbox. When the gearbox was fitted we had some fun loading up the motor, by levering a length of 4x2 against the output shaft flange, which generated lots of charred wood smoke and eventually cut a slot right through! I daresay you could stick an old handbrake drum on there and load up the motor quite effectively, however there's hardly any point to the exercise.

I plan to do the same thing with a busted FGT chassis in due course, and this time I'll make it a tricycle trolley, using a length of rod through the spring hanger eyes for the axle, and a swivel wheel mounted on the front crossmember with a simple drawbar attached. It's a lot easier and cheaper than designing and building one from scratch, and a helluva lot more robust. I may even use inflatable tyres so I can tow it around the yard with the ride on mower, which would be handy when pulling motors out of blitz wrecks, of which I have quite a few in the backyard now! Those heavy duty wheelbarrow tyres should do the job I reckon, although it may need two on the swivel axle.

[Private_collector]

Good idea. If I had thought to do that with the bit of chassis the crap engine came on it would have saved me a lot of welding to make a trolley. Too bad I ground all the rivets away and seperated the bits.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Too bad I ground all the rivets away and seperated the bits.

Too bad I scrapped this whole chassis a while back Tony! What was I thinking?!! It had some nasty fatigue cracks but that wouldn't matter for a trolley, and even without wheels they'd be handy for storing motors and loading onto trailers for transport. In other words - a flathead pallet!

[Tony Wheeler]

Just out of interest (and for the non-believers!) here's the full flow system shown in the CMP manual. A bushing separates the vertical and horizontal passages, and a third passage is drilled for the filter return. This third passage will be found on all CMP motors but not on standard flatheads.









Decades later the hot rodders developed a similar modification using a grub screw to separate the vertical and horizontal passages, and a third passage drilled manually. Evidently they're not aware it had already been done on the CMP. As mentioned though it's always plugged in my experience (but not with a bolt like I did on my first blitz!)

[Ryan]

Tony W, awesome pics and idea thank you very much.

Tony B, sorry for the small hyjacking of your thread, keep up the excellent work.

[Private_collector]

Ryan, don't give it a thought, mate.

There is nothing posted here that I wouldn't find interesting. Everything written on MLU adds to someones education. Often my own!

Don't apologise for making things interesting & informative.

In Lybia hijacking gets ya killed.......here on MLU it makes life fun. I like this hijacking!

[Private_collector]

Some time ago, I had a couple of enquiries regarding colors available pre-mixed in the type of paint I am using. That was too long ago for me to remember who those guys were, please excuse my memory.

While at the paint shop on Wednesday, I acquired an up to date list of colors presently available off the shelf. My color is 1166 code. If using this type of paint, I whole heartedly recommend addition of the applicable hardener. My chosen ratio is 15% hardener by volume.

Be aware all colors are available in 4lt ONLY, so far as I am aware. Mind you, 4lt doesn't go that far, so wouldn't be that much of an issue.

[Private_collector]

When does a bendix starter spring need replacement? Is it only when it has broken, or does it wear in other ways?

The clutch pressure plate has now been reassembled, and I have moved on to disassembling and cleaning the starter motor. In fact, the cleaning is all but completed. Starter body and rear plate are painted. Front plate has been cleaned but left in bare metal finish. The brushes and comutator are in good condition, and should not require attention, but it would be wise to fit fresh brushes, regardless.

Bought a 1mt (3+ ft) length of radiator hose yesterday. Cost only $40, from Autobarn. Will take a few photos of the starter motor pieces, tomorrow. I would welcome any advice about the bendix question, and what type of grease to lube the starter bushings with!

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I don't know, Keith. Can't hear anything from Ganmain now.

Tony may have arrested! Call the Code.

Bloody computer packed it in.

Have only just read this, but yes gents, I may be offline for another week.

Your kidding Tony! Sixty Dollars!


Code blue! Code blue!

[Private_collector]

My upper radiator tubes arrived today. Nice stainless steel.
Shame I will be cutting them apart, on one end.
They don't look it in the photos, but the bend is 90 degrees. Should be about 45, as close as I can tell. I have a welder lined up to TIG them back together after I cut them apart.

Could someone please confirm exact angle of the end piece? I have nothing here to go from, apart from a couple of well aged rubber hoses which I wouldn't trust to be accurate.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

Here's what I made it. 56.5 degrees from the vertical as measured on an existing pipe. I allowed for the ferrule at the thermostat end and a bit of a bow in the pipe at the bend.

Probably if you were out by a few degrees it would not matter and knowing how draughtsmen think it probably was designed 60 degrees off the vertical. That way you can use your 30-60-90 triangle to keep it simple when drawing it up.

Cheers

[Private_collector]

Thank you Jacques!

That is exactly what I needed to know.

[Private_collector]

I have never been so indecisive with anything as I am with whether or not to assemble the engine myself. There are a couple of areas that I have real doubts about my skills and abilities, and only experience will overcome that. So, after losing considerable sleep last night on that very train of thought, I decided to make a token effort today to attempt one small task that had concerned me. Found my can of valve lapping paste. Grabbed a couple of valves. Read up on the topic in my Flathead V8 rebuilding book, then had a little play.

With both the block and valves being fresh, I only used fine valve lap paste. Sounded a little crunchy initially, but within a little while I was quite amazed how the sound changed to an almost silent, and very smooth rotation of the valve against the seat. I assume when this occurs, you are pretty much done. When I removed each valve I could see that the paste had certainly ground a complete circle where the two surfaces had met. Pushing the valve back in then made a very satisfying 'clink'.

One thing concerns me, and this is something that no rebuild book seems to address. I find that the higher part of each valve (closest to intake manifold) sits ever so slightly proud of the surrounding valve seat. Possibly 1/32" (or less) from flush with block. The lower part is not far from flush. I hope this is correct, and have noted that the valve does sit properly in the seat. Looking at the old engine, I see some valves sit lower against the block, and some are like described above. I am thinking that some of the valves on the old engine may be ground or worn lower than others??? Any way, my great hope is that this is normal.

Having now done a whole TWO valves, it doesn't look to be hard. Asuming that the circumstances I have writren are OK, I will put in an effort to continue and complete all the lapping on Wednesday. Yes, I am numbering each valve, and they are returned to their individual plastic bags once done. I know that 2 valves is bugger all, but I didn't have time for any more today.

The other job that causes some anxiety is the gapping of the piston rings. It sounds to be a wonderful opportunity to piddle away many hours, if you have to gap each one individually. Not going to get too caught up in that until I finish doing the valve work. One stressful event at a time. Have been looking at a number of options with ring grinders. Well, the hand ones anyway. The electric ones look great, but FAR too expensive, considering I don't plan to be using such a tool again. Guess I was a bit green, but it came as a surprise that the rings would even require doing this. I won't be buying any tool until I check to confirm that the rings really do need gapping. Might get to supacheap tomorrow afternoon. They have a 560kg (2000lb) engine stand for $129 at the moment. It looks to be suitable for my needs, and I will need one if I am to make a go of this myself. I had to read back through a number of pages on this thread, to find where Sidevalve engine weight was discussed, so I would know the stand was up to the job. Hadn't realised how boring I am, until I had to read my own posts. Nearly fell asleep!

This is the Flathead rebuilding book I am studying. I have found it to be extremely useful, and very easy to read. Lots of detail, and really good illustrations. I have several others, not including the Ford maintenence manual, but this seems to be by far the most detailed. I could highly recommend this book. Especially so for novices like me!

[Lionelgee]

Hello Tony,

I am not sure of your bandwidth for watching YouTube clips? However, I found this one about Installing and adjusting new valves on a V8 Flat Head. Accessed 22nd June 2014 from, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TN1DbPMqC4E
Valve Seat Grinding - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDEJ3coQa14

I hope they are of some assistance to you.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Private_collector]

Lionel, i'll check the valve installing video when I can spare the data download, in a few days.
The valve grinding one won't be any help. I'm just lapping in the new valves. Grinding is a job I would leave to professionals anyway. Great potential for me to bollocks that job up, if I had a go at it.

Went to supacheap this afternoon, to buy an engine stand. Have now made the decision to do as much work as I can, with hopefully a very small component (if any) farmed out to a machine shop. Naturally, now that I am commited to doing the work, the engine stand I wanted was sold out. Figures! Got back home as quick as I could, and bought one on the supacheap ebay store. Doing so costs only another $7.00 for delivery to home. I can easily justify that amount by avoiding back strain loading into/out of car.

Now looking for best deal I can find for a fine cylinder hone. I like the Flex Hone brand. Theirs are the ones with a large number of individual spherical (ish) stones. See this website: http://www.crosstools.com.au/flex-ho...nder-hone.html I'm interested to hear which type others have used. Guess i'll need honing oil too. Bet it's just a light oil with inflated price. I'll try to find out the viscosity. Maybe able to use a substitute, like perhaps air-tool oil, which is dirt cheap.