Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

Private_collector · #1 01-06-14, 11:13

With the day nearly over, I got out the boroscope and investigated the oil passages from the pump.
Oil holes rear L block external.jpg
There are two plates which need to be made, to block off where French blocks had a governer (very top of photo, with 2 studs seen), and what has been described as a 'rev counter' (the opening facing camera, with two threaded holes diagonally set). That should not be a problem. The lower threaded hole on vertical surface is where the oil sender goes. The one above it, on horazontal surface is for oil line to/from filter..........at least I THINK it is. The other oil line hole is just visable on right side of where I will block off the diagonal holes. I have no idea which one goes to oil filter, and which one is from the filter, but it should dawn on me at some point.........I hope! No idea what the plugged hole was for, nor do I know why there is another plugged hole further down the side of the block. You can just see it, bottom left of the photo.
Oil pump housing showing outlets etc.jpg
This is the shaft where oil pump would sit. The hole on left side goes to the oil pressure sender. The hole on right looks to lead to the rear main bearing. I will confirm that by passing a thin piece of welding wire through, and look for it to appear where I took this photo from.
Oil feed hole rear main bearing.jpg
This is the oil hole coming to rear main bearing. I gather this also feeds oil along the crank?

Thats it. No more.........I promise!

Tony Wheeler · #2 02-06-14, 20:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I have no idea which one goes to oil filter, and which one is from the filter, but it should dawn on me at some point.

See pic below Tony. Looks like the filtered oil lubricates the governor drive gear before draining into the sump. On the CMP it's plumbed directly into the sump.

Something to be aware of with bypass filtration is that there needs to some restriction of flow, otherwise all the oil will go through the filter and none through the motor, esp. if there's no cartridge fitted. Presumably there's a restrictor in the filter inlet, ie. on the side of the filter housing. I'm not familiar with the fittings myself but it's something to confirm before assembly. Hopefully someone here can advise.

The two plugged passages are interesting, they could just be access holes for machining, or perhaps they're for flushing the system. I really don't have a clue to be honest.

Re crankshaft, it's only the rear main bearing that's fed directly from the oil pump, and from there to No.4 crankpin through a diagonal passage in the crankshaft itself. The rest of the crankshaft is fed from the main oil passage which runs along the top of the camshaft. There's a good diagram in Section C. Lubrication in the manual, the only difference being the full flow configuration.

Oil holes rear L block external.jpg

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Private_collector · #3 02-06-14, 22:02

Thanks Tony.

Now I understand it.

Ryan · #4 02-06-14, 22:27

It may be that I'm still in bed and it's early, but how is that flathead sitting there in the chassis rails without the gearbox connected? Isn't it only connected by the water pumps?

Keith Webb · #5 02-06-14, 22:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan

It may be that I'm still in bed and it's early, but how is that flathead sitting there in the chassis rails without the gearbox connected? Isn't it only connected by the water pumps?

There was a red gum stump or two lying on their sides supporting the rear of the engine as I recall, they are just out of sight. How do I know? I took that picture!

Ryan · #6 02-06-14, 23:06

Thanks Keith. Was it an ok set up for test running the engine? And do you have more pics from that run showing the other sides of the engine?

Tony Wheeler · #7 03-06-14, 13:42

Ryan, these are the only other photos of the motor, also taken by Keith. Unfortunately my own photos from the '70s were all destroyed, however the majority of our photos we're essentially duplicates, as we did most of our blitz hunting together.

The test bed was the original F60L chassis, which as you can see was damaged and bent at the rear. Note the hi-tech redgum stands, all handsawn and nailed together! I chopped the chassis off behind the gearbox crossmember, and looking at those reinforcement plates now I shudder to think how long it took me with a hacksaw! They make an ideal engine stand / test bed, because they're strong and stable and everything bolts straight on, including the radiator and gearbox. When the gearbox was fitted we had some fun loading up the motor, by levering a length of 4x2 against the output shaft flange, which generated lots of charred wood smoke and eventually cut a slot right through! I daresay you could stick an old handbrake drum on there and load up the motor quite effectively, however there's hardly any point to the exercise.

I plan to do the same thing with a busted FGT chassis in due course, and this time I'll make it a tricycle trolley, using a length of rod through the spring hanger eyes for the axle, and a swivel wheel mounted on the front crossmember with a simple drawbar attached. It's a lot easier and cheaper than designing and building one from scratch, and a helluva lot more robust. I may even use inflatable tyres so I can tow it around the yard with the ride on mower, which would be handy when pulling motors out of blitz wrecks, of which I have quite a few in the backyard now! Those heavy duty wheelbarrow tyres should do the job I reckon, although it may need two on the swivel axle.

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